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Old January 11th, 2010, 12:12 PM   #141
boggi
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awesome i think im gettin my d35 and 8.8 this saturday. but i put in a brand new battery and starter cable and she turned over once, i know the starter is good but she isnt turnin over and she got new battery terminals too. today im gonna pick up a new sylenoid and positive battery caable and negative battery cables lol, you got any idea wats wrong?
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Old January 14th, 2010, 05:30 PM   #142
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awesome i think im gettin my d35 and 8.8 this saturday. but i put in a brand new battery and starter cable and she turned over once, i know the starter is good but she isnt turnin over and she got new battery terminals too. today im gonna pick up a new sylenoid and positive battery caable and negative battery cables lol, you got any idea wats wrong?
I have had ignition switch {key} problems with every Ranger/Bronco2 I have had...try that.


Well ran into a little set back today. Turns out my 5.0 is junk.

And it has the shitty E6 heads. So now Im lookin for a new longblock and hopefully maybe run across a Explorer 5.0 with the GT40 heads.

I did get my new 35x12.5 KM2's tho!

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Old January 14th, 2010, 05:48 PM   #143
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that sucks
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Old February 7th, 2010, 04:54 PM   #144
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Finally making some progress....

Picked up a 87 T-bird 5.0 non-HO shortblock and some ported E7 heads last week.

Got the block cleaned,honed and painted today. Crank checked out perfect with no wear so I had it polished,de-bured and chamfered. I installed a 88 Mustang HO roller cam and new true roller timing set.



Im using a set of 1988 factory Mustang forged pistons and junked the T-bird cast pistons.I have a Melling HV oil pump and some underdrive pullies as well.

And I think Im going to use this 94 Mustang intake setup to make sure I have no clearance issues with my heaterbox and inlet setup.
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Old July 6th, 2010, 09:45 PM   #145
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Well today I finally started the motor swap. Just need to unbolt exhaust,motor & trans mount then yank the 2.9 out.

The 5.0 is done except for the new roller rockers Im waitng for the UPS guy to drop off. In the mean time I will be dropping it in minus the rockers,valvecovers and upper intake stuff. I wired the efi harness on the stand and moved some sensors around and had to modify the harness to work with all the mismatched OEM parts Im essembled. Here is what I used.
87 T-bird 5.0 block,crank & rods
88 Mustang forged pistons
Melling oil pump
FederalM bearings & rings
Milodon HV waterpump
March aluminum pulleys
Energy Suspension mustang motor mounts
88 Mustang HO roller cam
FMS hardened pushrods
E6 heads,ported,Comp springs,screw in studs
ProComp 1.6 roller rockers
95 5.0 Mustang upper and lower intakes
Rebuilt 19lb injectors
89 F-150 5.0 fuelrail
3g alt
87 T-bird wire harness
87 Mustang GT ecm {speed density}








I also modified the non-A/C heater box I had to clear the valvecover.Once motor is out I will swap out the a/c box.
Taking tomorrow to spend the day in Cleveland with my girl so by end of the day on Thursday I will have the 5.0 set in.
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Old July 6th, 2010, 09:50 PM   #146
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sweet looking. looking froward to see this thing in action. what exhaust are you going with?
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Old July 6th, 2010, 10:06 PM   #147
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Looks like I will be using a set of early Mustang 302 stock manifolds. I dont want headers. I want nice heavy and thick cast iron! No gaskets to worry about or tubes rotting out from being caked in mud. When I find the right set that fit I will sand blast em clean and will go inside them with the die grinder to open em up best I can. I also want to use the same single 2.25 exhaust thats on the truck now. I will cut up the Y-pipe and reweld it to fit the 302. I want this thing to make all its power as low as possible and be nice and quiet. Even with this set up it should still make an easy 230-240hp and well over 300ftlbs,which should be plenty of power for this little turd.
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Old July 6th, 2010, 10:19 PM   #148
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cool. good idea on the manifold instead of headers. been having trouble with my header on my 86 cj.
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Old July 6th, 2010, 10:42 PM   #149
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I will gladly give up the 8-10 hp just so I dont have to deal with that bullshit.
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Old July 8th, 2010, 11:08 PM   #150
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Made good progress today but not as far as I wanted. To many distractions.
Got T-case out, trans drained and everything unbolted and unplugged. Motor is ready to be pulled and I was hooking up the cherrypicker rite when the storm rolled in so I had to abort that since Im pulling it outside the garage.

With it raining I decided to finish up the 5.0 by installing the new rockers and bolting the valvecovers down. After dropping the rockers on it was obvious that something was off. Not one single rocker tip was lined up correctly over the valve. No way to adjust the guideplates to fix it either. Looks like whoever drilled these heads out for screw in studs didnt get the holes in the right spot thus throwing off the rocker alignment. My only option was to cut the guideplates in half and set up each rocker/valve by its self.

Look how far I had to move them to get everything to line up.

After lining them up.

Sooo, I got that taken care of only to find out the steel valvecovers dont clear the polylocks. A quick call to a buddy and I had some factory aluminum valvecovers that just barely clear!



I also went ahead and primed the motor today and dropped my 3g 130amp alt off to Kenny at Wally's. He is rebuilding that and going to up the amps a bit and make me a adapter for the different wiring harnesses.

Im getting the motor yanked at the butt crack of dawn tomorrow....
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Old July 9th, 2010, 11:42 AM   #151
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Looks great!
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Old July 9th, 2010, 12:15 PM   #152
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DUDE! That 5.0 looks sexy brother!

This B2 will kick arz.
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Old July 9th, 2010, 01:11 PM   #153
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I also ordered some Isky ajustable guideplates to replace the ones I cut. Im just using these to fire the motor and check my wiring,then I will swap them out for the Isky plates.
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Old July 10th, 2010, 12:33 AM   #154
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No turning back now.........

Truck is gutted. Got motor,trans and all the A/C shit out today. I also started going thru the trucks harness figuring out what goes and what stays. This will be the hardest part of the whole thing.



Fixed my non-a/c heater box to clear the passenger side valvecover. Just need to smooth out and apply reflective heat tape.


And Kenny from Wally's Starters and Alternators hand delivered my fresh G3 alternator on his way home from work!! What a great guy to deal with.



I think tomorrow will be more wiring stuff and Im leaning towards cutting the core support out between the headlights so I can make a new one out of square tubing and move radiator as far forward as possible.
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Old July 10th, 2010, 02:42 AM   #155
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Im leaning towards cutting the core support out between the headlights so I can make a new one out of square tubing and move radiator as far forward as possible.
I went with a short waterpump and a eletric thin fan to give myself more radiator space and I am so glad I did. Anything you can do to save space now will pay off. Nice build.
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Old July 10th, 2010, 03:22 AM   #156
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I went with a short waterpump and a eletric thin fan to give myself more radiator space and I am so glad I did. Anything you can do to save space now will pay off. Nice build.
I also went with a short water pump and also installed the electric fan as a pusher in front of the rad.

BTW, are you still looking for exhaust manifolds? I won't be need the ones that I took off my 5.0 that was in my 4x4 ranger when it goes into my 2WD ranger. They came from a 63 falcon they hug the head very closely and end just past the engine block with about a 5-10* angled flange. They are these manifolds except mine have been painted with black ceramic paint.


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Old July 10th, 2010, 09:46 AM   #157
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Well because I already have my engine acc drive all figured out now,and since I am using a 100.00 Milodon HV waterpump Im kinda stuck with what I built. I have a 91 Explorer HD radiator that is really thick and I have a 16" electric fan off a 07 Grand Cherokee that I will be using.

My core support is completely rotted away along the bottom and provided no support for the rad anyway so I have to do something to fix it. I figure it just makes more sence to just cut it all out and build some new and stronger that will give me all the room I need.I think this option will be easier and cheaper than changing the front of my engine around again.

If those manifolds came off a v8 in a chassis same as my Bronco I am interested for sure!
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Old July 10th, 2010, 12:44 PM   #158
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Im running the stock water pump and mechanical fan with the 4.0 4-core radiator with a 190 degree thermostat and she runs really cool. Plenty of clearance between the fan and the radiator too.
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Old July 10th, 2010, 01:18 PM   #159
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If those manifolds came off a v8 in a chassis same as my Bronco I am interested for sure!
Manifolds worked very well for me in my 93 ranger. I do not think there is much difference at all in the frame and firewall from a gen 1 BII to a gen 2 ranger. I know a lot of the stuff will interchange and they look identical. I did however run the exhaust outside the frame rail on mine to simplify the install. By the time you get a V8 and a fullsize tranny and t-case there isn't much room left between the frame rails.
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Old July 10th, 2010, 03:38 PM   #160
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Im running the stock water pump and mechanical fan with the 4.0 4-core radiator with a 190 degree thermostat and she runs really cool. Plenty of clearance between the fan and the radiator too.
Would you happen to have any pix of how much room it left you ?
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