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Old November 16th, 2008, 10:37 AM   #1
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Default Lower Link CROSSMEMBER material..

Need to start on my rear 4 link.

Basic stats:

Power level: 4.3 V6
Tire Size: 37"
Vehicle weight: ~3200 lbs

Setup will be a traditional dual-triangulated 4 link. Shooting for a complete flat belly, so I need the crossmember to go under the rear transfer case output.

I will have a 1.5" square crossmember between the trans a t-case which supports them, and more 1.5" square further up to form the flat belly structure. So I can run bracing from the trans crossmember back tot he link crossmember, to add stretngth in that direction. I can also run bracing up to the upper mounts and/or frame.

thought is to have these welded in place, the trans comes out through the tub from above.

Think 1.5" x 3/16" wall square would be strong enough for the lower mount, if braced as noted?
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Old November 24th, 2008, 11:04 AM   #2
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for the main pivot x-member I would go with 1/4" to be safe, 3/16 would probably be fine, but its better to only have to build it once.
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Old November 24th, 2008, 08:57 PM   #3
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meh, I decided to put the lowers under the frame rails (kinda frenched in) and splay the lowers. I'll still have a tiny amount of rear steer, but no biggie. So do leaves...

So I don't need that crossmember to do anything but support the skid plate. So 1.5" x 0.120"...
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Old November 24th, 2008, 09:38 PM   #4
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Old November 25th, 2008, 08:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pre4runner View Post
fancy
actually, lazy. Its just easier to run almost straight lowers than triangulate them. Mainly because the Jeep is so short, there's isn't much room for everything under there.


But, honestly, this Jeep was never meant to be a crazy hardcore machine. So I wont' worry that the links aren't real long or that there's 3* on the roll axis, or

Its meant to be a fun Jeep, thats all.

So lowers will be ~28 - 29" long, splayed out about 3" on each side, and the uppers will be about 33" and triangulated.

Fronts lowers will probably be about the same, woudl be nice to have all 4 lowers the same, so I could have a spare link.
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Old November 25th, 2008, 02:54 PM   #6
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pictures?
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Old November 25th, 2008, 03:39 PM   #7
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nothing's built yet, really. Here's mock ups (just tires sitting in place where they will be...)..... When I get the links done over the next few weeks, I'll start a build up thread for the whole Jeep. Its kinda tricky, building the whole thing from scratch and nothing is remotely related to whats really supposed to be in a flatfender.

So, see where the flat lower section of the frame starts ramping upward in front of the rear tire? From that lowest corner, the link will go from there to the axle.


Last edited by Haggar; October 27th, 2009 at 09:29 AM.
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Old December 21st, 2008, 06:14 PM   #8
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I know it's a little late since you did it already but here are pics of how I just did mine if anybody else is looking for ideas....



Doubled up 1.75" .120 wall plated with 1/4" and will be braced with some more tube.
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 09:21 AM   #9
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Actually, I've been working on other stuff lately and am a day or two away from doing those links.

Can you get your T-case/trans out past that without removing it? Or do you have to pull the t-case first?

Thats one of the issues, serviceability. Dont' want to have to undo the links to get at the trans if needed. Nice to be able to drop those without putting the JEep on jackstands. But my wheelbase is so short it gets tricky to make it work.
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 05:03 PM   #10
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I haven't actually had to do it yet, but I should be able to. I positioned it so that I should be able to loosen the bolts and wiggle it back enough to slide the t-case over the crossmember before I drop everything down. I didn't worry too much about it though, with dual t-cases and a fairly tall ride height I doubt I'd ever pull it all out in one chunk anyway.
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 08:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbaXJ View Post
I haven't actually had to do it yet, but I should be able to. I positioned it so that I should be able to loosen the bolts and wiggle it back enough to slide the t-case over the crossmember before I drop everything down. I didn't worry too much about it though, with dual t-cases and a fairly tall ride height I doubt I'd ever pull it all out in one chunk anyway.
hehehe, I did mine a few times. (5 speed + dual t-cases). Yeah, thats a big bitch. dropped it in one piece, as I was late for leaving for a run (400 miles away) when I found the bad clutch
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