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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:19 AM   #141
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My old 35" MTR's mounted on a 8" rim actually measured really close to 35.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 08:37 AM   #142
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Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE View Post
With the new rig builds trying to stay as low as possible, will high centering be a big differance? What I mean is alot of rigs now sit the same height weather on 35" or 40" tires, does a bigger tire reduce high centering (especially if people stretch more as they run bigger tires).

Just looking for others thoughts???
Not really. You still gain axle clearance from 40" tires to say 37" tires. This is mostly the hang up point. The second biggest hang up point is the Tcase skid. You can flat belly a jeep pretty easy so that gets rid of that. We have found that a 21" high belly height keeps you mostly off of obsticals. You can get this clearance without the needs for 40's. But you can't really gain the axle cleareance a bigger tire gives, even if you shave the crap out of most of axle options. Well, unless you run Portal axles.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 09:00 AM   #143
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Yeah, but what are you running for axles? You must have cut the fenders to be lower with your 40s. I agree with Lothos that MOST TJs are better off running 35s or smaller. And he did say 90-95%. I know for a fact, that with the exeption of really deep mud, you'd be hard pressed to find a place in Michigan you can go that I couldn't follow with my 33s.
Im running 60s and a 14, yes i cut the fenders.
I changed the suspension design so I have less up travel and more droop. Like others have already said, there is a few place in MI where you wont be able to follow. And yes I agree that smaller jeeps can fit on smaller trails, tigher, and so forth. it just gives me a reason to find another line and make it interesting. While your on a side hill and almost tipping over I will be more stable cause im wider, longer wheel base is better for hills. I will say that mine might not be great for DD use cause of my full hydro, but i bet if whiterinos rig has some nice radial road tires, that rig will out perform my old TJ setup (if he has sway bars) cause the wider lower CG make a world difference.

A stock jeep is good for someone on 33-35s I wont argue with that. But a jeep on 40s has more capability than one on 35s.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 04:08 PM   #144
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There are also some steep peaks at the mounds that you are likely to get high centered on. You've also rewritten your description from rigs with 40" tires (which are usually true to size) to rigs with 37" tires which in most cases measure closer to 35-36". So, the difference in tire size you are now talking about is far less than what you started with.

.
Well, if you guys are claiming to be shorter on 40s than you were on 35s (which I do not doubt) wouldn't you get high centered as easily as I would?

I threw in the 37 number because I was originally agreeing that most TJs are better off running a 35 or smaller. 37 would be the next popular size outside of that range, hence the name of the thread. The only reason I brought up 40s is because of my experience last weekend.

Sorry you can't make it to Dog Party. Maybe we'll catch up at OSTC some time. I doubt I'll go to the mounds anytime soon (I try not to venture that far south if I can avoid it).
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Old February 12th, 2009, 05:48 PM   #145
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Well, I'm actually wrong in what I said. It's true that keeping the COG low the belly isn't any higher than most any other rig. Not to mention that with a stretched wheelbase it would be a problem. High centering would be a problem. So, I humbly retract that statement.

But, I find that I get around in those areas better than the lower/ more stock rigs. Thinking about it, it's more likely because of better articulation and the ability to stick a tire up on a bank when needed.

Brimy's point about hanging a dif is actually a huge advanatage of bigger tires. There's a trail in Canada that we have run for years. No matter what, I always would hang a dif somewhere on the trail. Last year with my 40's was the only time I never did.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 06:35 PM   #146
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One definate advantage, is the larger radius of the tire. It just climbs over obstacles and through mud better. Longer footprint, etc.


A lot of times you will see someone who does get lower while going with bigger tires. While sometimes that seems counter-production for belly height, consider that if you aren't as tall, you can stuff the t-case up higher and gain ground clearance there. At the same time, you go to a flat belly, which slides over things better so even if you drag, you don't get hung up.
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Old February 12th, 2009, 06:39 PM   #147
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thats why you dont go with 35's or 37's and run 36's duh, you guys are all fuckin idiots
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Old February 12th, 2009, 07:26 PM   #148
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thats why you dont go with 35's or 37's and run 36's duh, you guys are all fuckin idiots
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Old March 29th, 2009, 01:11 AM   #149
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i've done all my wheeling (except mudding) on 28's to 33's but i wanted to step up to 35's so i could use my winch less but still have some challenges. my new rig has 39.5's which are bigger than i want for trails but i also play in the mud a lot and in the mud bigger is better. i'm thinking i'll leave the diffs open because the guys in my trail group are running 35's max.

for axles i'll probably run a 44 front and a 14b non ff rear because i can get them for about $150 for the pair. also i can get d44 axle shafts and other parts for dirt cheap (usually free) at the junkyard a friend owns but it's a small yard and d60's are rare so a 60 wouldn't be as practical since i'm always broke

btw, the truck is a 4Runner with a 383 stroker so it will be a good test for the d44. i drive with finesse on rocks and trails but i beat them hard in the mud (i don't like getting my boots muddy
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Old May 9th, 2009, 05:49 AM   #150
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I think a lot of people just jump on the band wagon and dive right into 37s because of influance from magazines and tv shows. There once was a time though when 35s were the shit and 37 and 40 inch tires were unheard of. The smaller tires make things interesting because they force you to wheel with your head and pick a good line verses compensating with the equiptment. That said, I roll on 40s because they are better in the in big mud than 33s, and we all know that. The down side is, since I'm getting away from mud bogs and more in to the trails and two tracks a rig on 40s is too big to take some places. I had more fun back when I was running stock junk and could drive it to the trail and and home again. Just my opinion though.
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Old October 9th, 2009, 04:50 AM   #151
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im running 33's right now but I am in the process of building new axles and plan to step up to a 38" just because I dont wanna be another guy on 37's and the 40's seem like they would be a little much. I also plan on using a 15x8 rim so im looking at 38 12.5's. I think this would give me good clearance on obsticals and I could still run mud, trails and rocks.
Thats where im going.
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Old October 9th, 2009, 05:41 AM   #152
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I was told that JK's will take 37's with 3 inch suspention and 2 inch body / Or 4 inch and 1 inch body ? Thats what I was told !! Guy at Mumbly's (Kevin) His sister is running 3 inch suspention and 2inch body lift which is cheaper, because once you go over 3 inch there is a lot more involved, but I personally think the 4 inch suspention and 1 inch body looks a lot better ? But its double the money and double the work ? Mumbly's (Kevin) #1- (586) 790-3300 .............
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Old October 9th, 2009, 08:48 AM   #153
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I was told that JK's will take 37's with 3 inch suspention and 2 inch body / Or 4 inch and 1 inch body ? Thats what I was told !!
Is that what you were told?
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Old January 16th, 2010, 10:27 AM   #154
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yea there are alot of "noobz" being one myself also, i only got maybe 4 months to my belt with experience, but my older bro was a heavy 4x4 dude. so i aint the average "noob" with about 3-4 yearz knowledge. but anyway some tires say they are 37 tall on the ad, but on actual diameter they are only 34.5 or 35, which is hell of an rip off if you dont know your facts. im glad i know my shit. i ride tsl superswampers when i fell like it and they are 39.5-15-15 and o.d is 39.4 so i dont feel much of a sucka or noob. but they should change it overall diameter instead of the bs they are posting.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 02:03 PM   #155
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yea there are alot of "noobz" being one myself also, i only got maybe 4 months to my belt with experience, but my older bro was a heavy 4x4 dude. so i aint the average "noob" with about 3-4 yearz knowledge. but anyway some tires say they are 37 tall on the ad, but on actual diameter they are only 34.5 or 35, which is hell of an rip off if you dont know your facts. im glad i know my shit. i ride tsl superswampers when i fell like it and they are 39.5-15-15 and o.d is 39.4 so i dont feel much of a sucka or noob. but they should change it overall diameter instead of the bs they are posting.
well put.
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Old August 13th, 2010, 04:17 PM   #156
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I have 285 16 on my rubicon, they are 8-inch wheels which makes them surprisingly enough 33-1/4" tall, and 10-1/2" tall, When I am in a full stuff, (1 rear tire off the ground) I get rubbing on the rear fender flare. I would really like to get to 35 tires, and have found that their are few 35's that are 10-5 wide, most are 12-5 wide. ITP LWB tires show they are narrower than a 12-5 tire. I am looking to get to the taller tire for ground clearance. I have 3-1/2" Terra Flex lift.

If I add 1-inch of body lift can I get 35 inch LTB's under this jeep, if I keep them on 8-inch wheels.
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Old August 13th, 2010, 04:21 PM   #157
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Originally Posted by crazygrady127 View Post
I was told that JK's will take 37's with 3 inch suspention and 2 inch body / Or 4 inch and 1 inch body ? Thats what I was told !! Guy at Mumbly's (Kevin) His sister is running 3 inch suspention and 2inch body lift which is cheaper, because once you go over 3 inch there is a lot more involved, but I personally think the 4 inch suspention and 1 inch body looks a lot better ? But its double the money and double the work ? Mumbly's (Kevin) #1- (586) 790-3300 .............
Keep in mind the breaks when and if you go up to 35 plus. Their is a real problem with stock breaks and TJ's 35 and 37" tires. More like slower downers than stoppers.
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Old August 13th, 2010, 04:27 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by Blazin_wheeler View Post
i've done all my wheeling (except mudding) on 28's to 33's but i wanted to step up to 35's so i could use my winch less but still have some challenges. my new rig has 39.5's which are bigger than i want for trails but i also play in the mud a lot and in the mud bigger is better. i'm thinking i'll leave the diffs open because the guys in my trail group are running 35's max.

for axles i'll probably run a 44 front and a 14b non ff rear because i can get them for about $150 for the pair. also i can get d44 axle shafts and other parts for dirt cheap (usually free) at the junkyard a friend owns but it's a small yard and d60's are rare so a 60 wouldn't be as practical since i'm always broke

btw, the truck is a 4Runner with a 383 stroker so it will be a good test for the d44. i drive with finesse on rocks and trails but i beat them hard in the mud (i don't like getting my boots muddy
In the off road parkks where the hard trails are, open diff's make things very difficult.

Lockers make a huge differance. More so than the tires.

The reason is that you are constantly getting in positions where one or more tire is off the ground at low speed with no momentum.

At that point, no locker and you are stuck with out being stuck.

Lockers before big tires in the trails, Lockers are not that important in mud beacause of tire speed and momentum.
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Old August 13th, 2010, 04:29 PM   #159
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My old 35" MTR's mounted on a 8" rim actually measured really close to 35.
If the MTR was a 35 10-5, how wide at the mid section were they on an 8-inch wheel. I am wondering if I can get them under my TJ, without causing torsion bar rubbing problems?

Were they actually 12-5 on an 8-inch wheel?
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Old April 20th, 2011, 03:08 PM   #160
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Thread Back From The Dead.
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