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Old March 2nd, 2009, 01:58 PM   #121
joe_jeep
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can you suck your own dick
wouldn't be on here typing if he could!


cool build!! love the flatties!
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Old March 15th, 2009, 08:21 PM   #122
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Tinkered a little more today. Not much big looking progress, but lots of little stuff. Took advantage of the nice weather, so I painted my wheels and beadlock rims. While I was at it, I drilled in a second valve stem in each, much further into the rim, so they'd be easier to reach. With my weld-on beadlocks, the original valve stems were really hard to get to.

I got the body actually centered and in position, and drilled/bolted it to the body mounts. Then I cut the dash out. It was hacked up from previous owners, and I'll do something better.



Also cut and drilled a big stack of foot plates for the cage. So tacked the cage together. So here's a side view of it (looks just like it did a few pages back...)



Gives you a good idea of where the tire will be.

Here's a shot from the side, to show how wide the axles are. Tires will be sticking out about 10-11" per side. I think I'll be getting muddy...

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Old March 15th, 2009, 08:35 PM   #123
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Speaking of drilling new valve stems in the center of the ring, I have the Klune V quick air downs located there. They work great.

Yes, plan on some mud.
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Old March 15th, 2009, 08:46 PM   #124
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The reason for getting the cage done now is that it supports the suspension, so I can't get the air shocks figure out until the stucture is there.

So, looking forward, the next steps are all the rest of the structure.

For the rear section, I'll add in a harness bar, and tubes all around the perimeter. The rear air shocks will be supported by the tubes running from the B to C pillars, not exactly sure how I want to do it, I need to get the tires on the rims for some test fitting first. I'll be bracing that tube, so its not the only support.



Above, there'll probably be 4 spreaders or so. I'll have to see. They'll look like this from the side:



The seatpan area will be something like this. Mostly from 1" square, it'll have a few feet to tie to the body mounts, and will tie the A to B pillars. I probably should have that piece along side to be as straight as possible to provide more strength, and then have the back seat rail drop down.




The dash will be something like this. Dash bar and the center section will be normal size round tube, then the blue sections will be made with 1" square. Maybe some kind of glove box on the right. Or a panel to remove to access the fuses.

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Old March 16th, 2009, 04:22 PM   #125
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Any plans on filling in the rear wheel well ahead of rear tire? So it kinda looks like a bobbed & comped CJ-6 with a 3B front end?

Hell, cut the passenger door opening out square and paint it OD green, you could tell people it was some uber-rare M170-esque version of an M606....even paint red cross insignia's on it.....ooooh....nice.

I know some MVPA types that would probably case your house with night vision if that rumor got out.
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Old March 16th, 2009, 05:13 PM   #126
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I'm waiting to put the tires on to decide if I want to mod that section or not. Worried that if I glass something in, it might eventually break off again. Really have no experience with doing fiberglass, though, so not sure what to expect.

LOL, 10 years ago at one of our events, a guy I knew found and bought a jeep while up in the UP. $100 for a M-170. Still all 24v waterproof stuff. *sigh* I never find deals like that.
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Old March 18th, 2009, 07:02 PM   #127
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haggar your build and tech knowledge is awsome! nice work again
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Old March 19th, 2009, 12:06 PM   #128
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looking good
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Old March 20th, 2009, 08:29 AM   #129
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this thing is going to be awesome. Great Job!
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Old March 20th, 2009, 03:49 PM   #130
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Looking sweet!
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Old March 22nd, 2009, 06:38 PM   #131
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man i love cj3bs, looks great, that is the same engine,trans,and tcase my brother runs in his cj-7,and it does quite well. keep up the good work.
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Old April 8th, 2009, 12:58 AM   #132
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any updates?
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Old April 8th, 2009, 12:37 PM   #133
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any updates?
Last few weeks I've been tied up on other things. Next week I will have updates.

Making a few changes to the plan, though. Did some parts trading over the last few weeks.

So I'm now going to be running 36x12.5 Swamper SXs. I have run these before and was very happy with them, so am glad to run them again. The wider width of the Iroks was causing me some geometry issues with getting the shocks mounted. I will groove them in my usual pattern later.

Also got rid of the beadlocks, will just run some standard 15x8 steelies for now. Got a set, I just need to sandblast and repaint them.

I'm ditching my 4.10 gears to run 5.29s that I got (from 1badzuk). Lock rite front, I'm just going to weld the rear for now. Eventually I'd like an E-locker in the rear and the welded set will be a spare.

The big reason to move to 5.29s is to get lower gearing, as I decided to ditch the SM465. Its really really big, and hangs down low. In such a small jeep, its just more than I want. Also was getting tight on the left side to get the exhaust, upper control arm, and slave cyl in the same small place. So I'll be running a TH350 automatic instead. Going above 55-60 mph isn't really this things forte, anyway, so I don't mind running ~3400 rpm for 10 minutes here and there if we ever do hit those speeds.

While the TH350 is a little longer, its shorter in height, so I can lower the rear output by about 3" and get a better driveshaft angle, than I would have with the SM465. (As my goal is a flat belly).

Did more cage work as well, but haven't taken any pics. I'm off work next week, so I should get some good stuff done.
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Old April 8th, 2009, 12:43 PM   #134
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I came to the same conclusion on the sm465 it is to fawkin big to stuff in a flatty. If I ever do another one it will be a T18. Much smaller and easy to adapt factory adapter to.

Looks good, can't wait to see it as a roller.
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Old April 8th, 2009, 01:49 PM   #135
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I came to the same conclusion on the sm465 it is to fawkin big to stuff in a flatty. If I ever do another one it will be a T18. Much smaller and easy to adapt factory adapter to.

Looks good, can't wait to see it as a roller.
Yeah, I couldn't beleie the difference when I picked up the SM465. I had a pair of T-18s laying around years ago, figured it'd be the same. Boy was I wrong.

I'm *really* hoping to having it rolling by the end of next week.
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Old April 8th, 2009, 03:40 PM   #136
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good decision! I highly douby you'll regrett it
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Old April 8th, 2009, 03:55 PM   #137
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good decision! I highly douby you'll regrett it
it will be even more fun in the future if I can find an aluminum block 5300
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Old April 8th, 2009, 07:02 PM   #138
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Find 2 of em I like the build
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Old April 11th, 2009, 07:18 PM   #139
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OK, a little time to finally work again. Its tough most weeknight, its just out of the question, with a 4yr old and a 10month old, its: get home form work at 6, eat dinner, play with the kids, put the kids to bed, feed the dogs, and its 9pm. And the kids bedrooms are just above the garage, so loud stuff like hole-sawing brackets and grinders/air compressors running is too loud. So I only get a few hours per week on the weekend to work. Anyway, got a few days off work, so hopefully will make good progress in the next week..
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Old April 11th, 2009, 07:40 PM   #140
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So, next big step is to get the front 3 link in. Once that is in, I will complete the cage. Then tear it all down, finish weld and paint everything.

I had previously tacked the lower mounts on the axle tube, so put the LCA brackets on the frame and stuck the links in place.



I did a measurement, and came out with a 96.5" wheelbase. A little shorter than I thought, but just fine with me.

Next up is to start trying to figure out where the upper link is going to go, and getting the shocks located. Here's a better view of the shock hoop. Thats a piece of 1" square, set at 27.5" eye to eye, to simulate an air shock with 6" of shaft exposed, which is my planned ride height. I need to rework the upper shock tabs to angle more in line with the shock. I left too much 'meat' on the tabs, so when the shock pivots (they have a heim joint stype rod end with misalignment spacers), its crashing into the tabs and limiting its range of motion.



The goal, is to have clearance for 6" bump travel on both front and rear axles. I have 6.5" on the rear axle, and look like I can make the front have 6 to 6.5". Then I'll bumpstop it to like 5.5" or so. I don't buy into the philosophy of having only 3 to 4" of uptravel. I like to go fast from time to time, and I also think that no uptravel means you force the whole body to lean sooner and you can roll easily.

Here's a mockup of where the link will be. NOTE: The link will be mounted inside the rail, I put it here for the benefit of the photo, and there is an interference with the engine mount that I need to deal with.



Here's where the UPPER link will be at full uptravel. (Note: I didn't move the lower link, as I know it has clearance). So, you might be able to see where the engine mount is, the tube comes straight out from the frame to the mount at the engine.



What I need to do, is move the tube up to where the blue circle is. It would be easy enough, to just weld on another piece of 2x3 tube where I have the blue lines. If I think of something that doesn't look so blocky, maybe I'll do something different.

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