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Old December 30th, 2008, 09:32 AM   #61
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When you mount your shocks and check for claearances be sure to cycle your suspension and also try to flex your tire with no air in it. In a neutral stance, I have 2 1/2" between my tire and shock. You can see the rub mark on the shock when I have been twisted up.





When I cycle the suspension, the tire just barely clears. But get in a situation where a rock is pushing the rubber around and it moves more than you might think.
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Old December 30th, 2008, 01:45 PM   #62
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Here's a little more progress:

Got the upper mounts onto the axle (There will be a lot of bracing welded in, once I test fit everything, don't worry).

I put the outer two pieces in place first, with predrilled holes. Then, I got the inner pieces cut to size. I used a chuck of rect. tubing, cut to the same with as my joints (2-5/8"), to clamp the inner pieces square to the outers. Marked and drilled them for their holes, then reclamped them, with bolts in the holes to keep things lined up.



Here's the axle with all joints hanging in place. Don't know what it is about camera shots that makes things look out of alignment, but the uppers are more matched than they look in that shot.



Built the upper frame mounts as well. More 3" x 3/16" box tube, drilled for 3 locations (3/4" apart), band saw'd off one wall to make them into a U-channel. This pic also shows how the lower moutns will attach to the frame. They are sitting how they'll mount, the short flat part will go under the frame, then follow the frame up as it angles upward. So, they ramp down about 1.5" below the frame or so. That let me get the lowers a lot flatter, than trying to tuck them up under the belly.




I might still get the links built up today. Don't think I'll have time to get the frame mounts all tacked in place, though.

Last edited by Haggar; December 30th, 2008 at 01:49 PM.
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Old December 30th, 2008, 02:31 PM   #63
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I dont know if you have seen this yet but it is a really cool build with some cool details. Thought it might give you some inspiration. Check out the fuel cell! http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=727812
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Old December 30th, 2008, 04:29 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvwindows View Post
I dont know if you have seen this yet but it is a really cool build with some cool details. Thought it might give you some inspiration. Check out the fuel cell! http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=727812
Yeah, saw that before, that cell is sweet. Since mine isn't a military model, I'm keeping it in civvy dress.

Actually, my cell should be here any minute, according to FedEx. Just a normal 30x12x9 RCI cell like many use in Jeeps..
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Old December 30th, 2008, 04:30 PM   #65
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More updates for today:

Got the LCA frame mounts welded to the frame. The bolt center is 0.5" below the frame, the bottom of the mount is 1.5" below the frame. It is a plated ramp, so shouldn't get hung up much. Happy how these came out, much easier and more space that running a crossover with the mounts under the t-case output. There will be more plating on them to finish. They are 3" wide, the frame is 2" wide, so they hang over the inside by 1", so that'll get trimmed and filled nicely.



Then started on my links. They are 28.25" eye to eye. While that sounds short, compared to what you see on many builds, but its still about the same as a long-arm kit, and much better suspension geometry than a short arm Jeep, which, honestly still do damn well on the trail. It'll be just fine for what I want out of this.

One benefit of shorter links is they are stronger against bending. These are 1.75" x 0.250" DOM, with poly bushings at one end (chevy leaf spring bushings, mounted inside 2.00" x 0.250" DOM, cut down to 2-5/8" wide, in case I want to use joints later) and Johnny joints at the other end.

Here I'm notching one end to accept the 2" DOM sleeve for the bushing. (Yeah, I use the timer on my camera to bring you these awesome action shots...).



Here are the finished links. Just tacked until everything looks good.



All I was able to get for now, time for dinner. Waiting for the FedEx guy, my wiring harness, fuel cell, and gauges are due here today. I'll post pics when they arrive...
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Old December 30th, 2008, 07:01 PM   #66
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Last pics of the day... FedEx finally showed up.

Fuel Cell:



New gauges. No brainer who they are from, since I design instrument clusters for VDO... They are all electronic, pointers are lit (hate how the autometers don't unless you pay a few hundred more for their 'II' lines..), the speedometer is electronic and programmable, which is sweet. I've used these before, very happy with them. Whats nice, is that that big box includes all the new senders, including the VSS generator which screws right into the dana 300. The 5 gauges will go into a old-style layout in the center of the dash (speedo in the center, two on each side), and the tach will go into a cup (thats the other box) and mount on the steering column.



And also got a 18 circuit wiring harness, has the connector to plug into the GM steering column, looks pretty complete, fuse block, flashers, relays, headlight connectors, etc....

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Old December 30th, 2008, 11:42 PM   #67
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I ran that cell in my tracker, it worked great except for running out of fuel on the slightest attitude below about 3 gallons in it... I would recommend getting the walbro pickups and plumbing 2 or 3 into the cell or making a catch can for the return on the system so you dont always have to pull off the moving volume of fluid.
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Old December 31st, 2008, 08:59 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by 95geo View Post
I ran that cell in my tracker, it worked great except for running out of fuel on the slightest attitude below about 3 gallons in it... I would recommend getting the walbro pickups and plumbing 2 or 3 into the cell or making a catch can for the return on the system so you dont always have to pull off the moving volume of fluid.
I was thinking to put a 2 pickup setup with the walbro pickups. I also might run it 'sideways' as in long front to back, instead of side ot side. But good to know about the pickup setup, thanks!
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Old December 31st, 2008, 09:03 AM   #69
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Quick note, since I've had a few people ask about the gauges.

Here's how the speedometer setup works:

You have a sender, which screws right in place of your speedometer cable. It generates the pulse train for the electronic speedo. You don't need to work about what gear is in your t-case or anything. You just set it up, put the speedometer in calibration mode, and drive a measured mile. I use my GPS and drive very slowly down a straight path. When you've gone exactly 1 mile, you push the button again. During that time, it counts the number of pulses it gets from the t-case, and then it calibrates itself. You can recalibrate it as often as you like, so if you change your tires, gears, etc, you can keep it correct. Its one of those things that ends up being very nice,t o have an aaccurate speedo.

Here's the sender:



and here it is screwed into the t-case:

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Old December 31st, 2008, 09:07 AM   #70
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i want to marry you.

that 5hit is the hotness.
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Old December 31st, 2008, 04:27 PM   #71
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How much does a gauge setup like that cost for someone not associated with VDO? The whole package, not just the speedo.
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Old December 31st, 2008, 04:49 PM   #72
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I don't get a deal, I just buy them from summitracing. The big pack is I think $279, then another $70 for the tach. I spent another $25 for a gage cup to mount the tach on th ecolumn. So under $400 for 6 gauges, including all the senders, with an electronic programmable speedo, its a pretty good deal.
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Old January 1st, 2009, 01:06 AM   #73
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just ran accross this thread.awesome build.i remember when i saw that glass body for sale.i thought about buying it for a spare.it's the only glass 3b body i've seen since i got mine ,used ,almost 20 years ago.keep up the good work.let me know when you want that soft top.also if you want the new glass i've got for the windsheild i can show you how to install it.i even like the green.i just painted the new motor in my m725 that color,i call it gravedigger green.
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Old January 1st, 2009, 05:46 PM   #74
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Todays progress:



First, built a few more links. All 4 are identical. I can use the same size links for the front, at least for the lowers. That'll give me 6 or 7 (there's a total of 7 links on the Jeep) links that are all the same size, so if something happens to one, I can carry a spare that'll fix them all.



Next, I started getting the upper frame brackets in place...



Here's a side shot to shot how they are currently attached. Again, there's a lot of bracing that isn't in place yet. There is just enough room for a nut, washer, and a little bolt hanging out between the bracket and the frame. Fits perfect.



All brackets in place:




Wahooooooooooo!






So, axle is in, went in perfectly, didn't have to fight to get the links to line up, etc. You can see the axle position now. Thats actually about at 1 to 1.5" droop in the shot. Links are reasonably flat.

Here are the final numbers I went with. I have tw adjuster holes out there, which can switch me to 60% and 105% antisquat, if I don't like the 80% where I'm at. Roll axls is pretty flat, instant center's in a decent spot, etc.

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Old January 1st, 2009, 10:07 PM   #75
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very nice build. a nice simple design. should be great when your done
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Old January 1st, 2009, 10:30 PM   #76
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Next steps:

1) 3 link the front
2) Weld the cage up
3) Do all the frame mounts for the cage
4) Tear it down, do finish welding on frame, cage, and links.
5) Finish cutting the body
6) Sand and paint everything

Then I can start on all the little things to make it go. Hoping to have it painted by end of January.
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Old January 1st, 2009, 10:59 PM   #77
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Looking real sweet Jason, thanks for the update.
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 04:03 AM   #78
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looking good man - youre flying - at this rate youll be doing your shake down in the snow
is your pinion angle ok in back ? looks like its cranked up, then again i cant see where your output is (or will be) either. speaking of that, what are you going to run for your rear drive shaft ?
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 08:28 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDirt View Post
looking good man - youre flying - at this rate youll be doing your shake down in the snow
is your pinion angle ok in back ? looks like its cranked up, then again i cant see where your output is (or will be) either. speaking of that, what are you going to run for your rear drive shaft ?
Thanks! Since I don't have my T-case in place at the moment, I cranked it to ~20*. All 4 arms are adjustable, I suspect that I'll be shortening the upper links a little to bring it down. But being a Jeep, it'll be a short d-shaft, and I'll be running a CV shaft, so it needs to be tipped up to match the driveline, which I think will be like 16-18* static angle.
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 08:29 AM   #80
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I have had a few people ask about the link calculators. They are excel macros, created by a Pirate4x4 member, named Triaged. They *used* to be in his signature file, but for some reason, he removed his sig. Anywho, you can click here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...74&postcount=1

And the 3 and 4 link calculators are in that thread, right at the top.
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