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Old November 18th, 2008, 12:53 PM   #1
84Scrambler
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Default 2001 F-250 Powerchoke

A friend on mine has a 2001 F-250 Powerstroke that suddenly started "chugging" when started when it got cold out. It runs rough for 15 minutes or so until the engine warms up, then runs normally. It has been to the Ford dealership around Monroe a few times already. Nothing shows up on the diagnostic computer. They changed out the MAP sensor and some sort of O2/exhaust sensor to no avail. They suggested that it could be something with the injectors, but that makes no sense to me. A bad injector wouldn't occur due to cold weather would it? I guess the dealer mechanic talked to the Ford engineering help folks and they couldn't identify anything either. I have a Cummins, so this badly running diesel thing is foreign to me.

Any suggestions on what could be the issue?

Also, anyone know of a GOOD diesel mechanic in the Monroe area? They've dumped $500+ into this at the Ford Dealer already and have not fixed anything.
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Old November 18th, 2008, 01:09 PM   #2
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Is it his first winter with the truck? Does it have a chip?

It might be functioning perfect, just new to him.... On the powerstrokes, there is an exhaust back pressure valve located on the output of the turbo, between the turbo and the downpipe. It is a butterfly valve that closes in cold weather to make the engine work harder, and warm up faster. Mine is mildly annoying (opening and closing a lot in traffic), but helps warm the truck up, and keep it warm... You can defenetly feel the difference in the motor when it is closed. There is also a different exhaust pitch, which might be hard to hear if he has a muffler.

To test this, simply unplug the harness going to the EBPV.
the harness is just 2 wires
It is the clip in this picture, just above the blue dot

The wiring can also be modified very easily to act as an engine brake.

Unplugging it might set a code, but it might not. It will certainly tell you if that is the issue though.

also, have him change the oil to 5W40 rotella synthetic. You can buy it by the gallon at Walmart and maybe meijer. The strokers fuel system is driven off oil pressure via a high pressure oil pump (few thousand PSI). The high pressure oil is actually what drives the injectors open. If the oil is too thick when it is cold, the injectors wont fire, and it will stumble. Usually this only happens for ~15 seconds after startup though. The 5W40 syn helps cold starts, and I would recomend it in any stroke in MI during the winter.

If he is ever in Dearborn, Iwould be happy to hear it "chug" and give my input.
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Old November 18th, 2008, 02:55 PM   #3
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There is all kinds of different things that will make a diesel run/start poorly in cold weather. Does he have a newer fuel filter? When the weather gets cold and your diesel begins to thicken up, even a fuel filter that is a little clogged can cause a diesel engine to run poorly. Also when you mentioned that the dealer swapped out "some sort of O2/exhause senseor", I want to say it was most likely the exhaust back pressure sensor (EBP). There is a exhaust back pressure tube that comes out of the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. The tube runs right up behind the center pulley on the pulley cog belt. The EBP sensor is mounted on the end of this tube. Alot of times, the EBP sensor will be replaced without ever checking the back pressure tube. These tubes are prone to clogging up with soot, as well as rusting out and cracking, causing your engine to run bad. Also, one more question: does your friend plug in his block heater on colder nights? If he doesn't, and his truck starts and runs poorly for the first 15 or so minutes as you mentioned, it may be that he needs a new set of glow plugs.
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Old November 18th, 2008, 03:21 PM   #4
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The truck has about 126,000 miles on it and I think he bought it new. There are no chips or mods. Straight stock truck. The other thing they were told was that the turbo might be the issue. That doesn't make sense to me either as it runs fine when it is warm, unless it is the thick oil issue.
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Old November 18th, 2008, 03:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84Scrambler View Post
The truck has about 126,000 miles on it and I think he bought it new. There are no chips or mods. Straight stock truck. The other thing they were told was that the turbo might be the issue. That doesn't make sense to me either as it runs fine when it is warm, unless it is the thick oil issue.
The EBPV is part of the turbo, so maybe that is what they meant?

sounds like a terrible dealer
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Old November 18th, 2008, 05:14 PM   #6
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Yeah, most dealer diesel guys are just the one lucky guy that could spell diesel and not fill it up with regular gas.
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Old November 18th, 2008, 06:11 PM   #7
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blacklung has a good point, how long is the wait to start light staying on when parked overnight and first started?
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Old November 20th, 2008, 07:30 PM   #8
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It very well could be a glow plug issue, the solenoids are known to go bad and drop alot of voltage. I have seen wiring issues as well. It also could be a injector problem.

It should start without plugging it in and not miss even at 0 deg.

It should be fairly simple to diagnose, a power balence when cold should isolate what cylinder(s) are causing problems and go from there. I think you need to find someone that knows what the hell they are looking at.
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Old November 20th, 2008, 10:43 PM   #9
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Hey, not to hijack this thread, but my '97 PSD is hard starting now that its cold. The WTS light doesn't stay on as long as it used to in the morning, could this be the cause??
Starts fine if I plug it in for 10min or so.
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Old November 21st, 2008, 06:23 AM   #10
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If you need a diesel guy in Monroe, take it to Nollenberger Truck, on Cooper just off Front street, they may or may not touch a pickup as they usually only do medium to heavy international trucks and engines.
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Old November 23rd, 2008, 10:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandguy356 View Post
Hey, not to hijack this thread, but my '97 PSD is hard starting now that its cold. The WTS light doesn't stay on as long as it used to in the morning, could this be the cause??
Starts fine if I plug it in for 10min or so.
If your truck starts hard when cold, but starts fine with the block heater plugged in, it's more than likely a glow plug issue. Also, having a new set of batteries makes a big difference.
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Old November 23rd, 2008, 02:22 PM   #12
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They are the original batteries, I'll probably start with them and see if it makes a difference.
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Old November 23rd, 2008, 05:19 PM   #13
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I would go with the glow plug issue, mine had done the same thing. when plugged in it started when not plugged in it didnt want to start.
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Old November 23rd, 2008, 09:53 PM   #14
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They are the original batteries, I'll probably start with them and see if it makes a difference.
Ya, if they're the original batteries i would defiently start with two new ones regardless. Your engine needs as much power as possible to compress and heat up the air in your cylinders to ignite the diesel. If you have weak batteries and your engine can't turn over fast enough, the air will cool off too quick and the diesel won't ignite. This plays a huge facter as the weather gets cooler since you're batteries lose power, the air is cooler, and diesel begins to thicken.
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Old November 23rd, 2008, 09:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84Scrambler View Post
Yeah, most dealer diesel guys are just the one lucky guy that could spell diesel and not fill it up with regular gas.
if you're close to brighton bring it to brighton ford. our diesel guy has been doin diesels for 20 years.
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Old November 24th, 2008, 09:47 AM   #16
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I also have a question reguarding a cold start problem im having with my 02 7.3. In the mornings(cold) on initial start up my truck will crank over but wants to be a bitch to actually start. How can i determine if my glow plugs are failing.
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Old November 24th, 2008, 09:49 AM   #17
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my buddies truck did this same thing....after starting it loped like it had a monster cam in it for like 45 seconds to a minute....glow plugs were all fine.

well then he decided to do a 10K mod on the truck (old school performance trick) and the loping went completely away, makes me think it was a fuel issue.
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Old November 24th, 2008, 01:07 PM   #18
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I also have a question reguarding a cold start problem im having with my 02 7.3. In the mornings(cold) on initial start up my truck will crank over but wants to be a bitch to actually start. How can i determine if my glow plugs are failing.

I would first make sure the batteries are in great condition as that will cause hard starts even if it sounds like it is cranking ok, then put a voltmeter across the glow plug relay and turn the key on. This will measure how much voltage you are losing going through the relay. I like to see less than .2-.3 volts. If that is ok then you can ohm each glow plug to see if it ok or hook a test light up to B+ and touch the top of each one, any that don't light the test light are bad. If it were mine I would just put them all in at that point as you have the covers of already. There are also some clips that go in the valve cover harness to keep it from unplugging by vibration, you should install those as well. I can get you the part number or just search for UVC clips on the net.
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Old November 29th, 2008, 04:38 PM   #19
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had a bad sensor on my 03 7.3. made it smoke like crazy on startup then had power loss untill warmed up but my buddies 00 had a clogged injector/s about 3 months ago and injector cleaner fuel addative cleared it up.
thats your easiest and cheapest place to start.
i've also heard of new sensors being bad.
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Old November 29th, 2008, 06:04 PM   #20
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It turns out that it was the injector wiring harness. This is a known issue and one that the Ford dealer in Monroe should have caught. The wiring harness needs to be shimmed to insure proper connection. A quarter is all you need to shim it. The dealership supposedly checked it, but never took it apart or bothered with the shim package. They are fighting with the dealership for the $500 they wasted trying to find this problem.
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