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Old October 7th, 2008, 05:04 PM   #21
zook < jeep
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Originally Posted by Chinski View Post
It is a starting cap as far as I know. That was the best function I could tell based on the manual for what appears to be the new model number of motor/pump that I have.

The cap does say 370-455MFD on it. I was pretty sure MFD = uF = microfarad?

The one I'm getting was rated very similar at 378-454uF. Still 110VAC 60Hz like the original. Different brand; original is Aero M and new is Mallory. The closest Aero Mís were either 75uF higher or 100uF lower.

The end does not look obviously bulged, but it does have a bit of corrosion on the terminals and could have a slight puff to it. There is some real slight blistering on the case, but that just may be the case itself and not from the cap's guts - hard for me to say.
That will work just fine. As long as the voltage is the same and there is overlap in the ratings. Most of those large value caps have a 50% tolerance at best anyway.
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Old October 7th, 2008, 05:31 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by zook < jeep View Post
WOW! Serious? The whole purpose of a cap is it's CAPACITY to store electricity. Without knowing the proper capacitance, you have NO IDEA if it is good or not! The caps across a start winding are chosen with a certain value capacitance to overcome the charge of the opposing windings and make the motor start to turn. By testing on an ohmmeter proves nothing other than it isn't open or shorted. But if it's value is out of spec and you continue to use it, the motor still won't start!

Don't send a boy to do a man's job ... classic example.
k...but if it's blown, you can tell with an ohmmeter.

Thanks for the quick lesson in capacitors and motors, it appears that the many classes that I have taken previous to your lesson in electronics/motors have not been sufficient.

One thing that engineers and their types tend to overlook is the practicality of solutions that they offer to problems that they (or others) encounter. I am assuming (I may be wrong) that the individual with the motor and capacitor in question does not own a capacitance meter, thus, I recommended he use an ohmmeter (which many a common working man possess) to tell if the capacitor is blown.

If this test shows a short, you are certain that your capacitor is bad, and you can gleefully buy a new one and fix your motor. If this capacitor is, in fact, good (as far as your test can show), you can go to the next step (still buy a new cap, have someone else with a meter measure it, or whatever).

Or, he can follow your solution, not know if the cap is good or bad, go buy a $400 fluke meter, go check it, and then either buy a new $5 to $12 capacitor OR sell the broken motor on e-bay to make up the costs of the meter he just bought.

Never let an asshole have a keyboard... [edit] classic example [/edit]

Last edited by General Lee; October 7th, 2008 at 05:37 PM.
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Old October 8th, 2008, 07:11 AM   #23
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k...but if it's blown, you can tell with an ohmmeter.

Thanks for the quick lesson in capacitors and motors, it appears that the many classes that I have taken previous to your lesson in electronics/motors have not been sufficient.

One thing that engineers and their types tend to overlook is the practicality of solutions that they offer to problems that they (or others) encounter. I am assuming (I may be wrong) that the individual with the motor and capacitor in question does not own a capacitance meter, thus, I recommended he use an ohmmeter (which many a common working man possess) to tell if the capacitor is blown.

If this test shows a short, you are certain that your capacitor is bad, and you can gleefully buy a new one and fix your motor. If this capacitor is, in fact, good (as far as your test can show), you can go to the next step (still buy a new cap, have someone else with a meter measure it, or whatever).

Or, he can follow your solution, not know if the cap is good or bad, go buy a $400 fluke meter, go check it, and then either buy a new $5 to $12 capacitor OR sell the broken motor on e-bay to make up the costs of the meter he just bought.

Never let an asshole have a keyboard... [edit] classic example [/edit]
You are wrong YET AGAIN! What will happen is he'll take some wrong advice from some hack douchebag on here and assume his cap is good because he tested it with a voltmeter. So, he'll continue to try and get the motor started which then will burn up the windings of the motor so he then has to go replace the $200 motor. Worse yet, push the cap which is already damaged to it's breaking point where it shorts the internal plates sending a fireball into his face and hurting someone unnecessarily.

Or he could listen to people who know what they are talking about, take the cap to a motor reapir place and have it tested for free like someone suggested or go buy a $40 capacitor tester ... not every over-compensating wannabe electrician needs a Fluke ... to test it properly.

http://elexp.com/tst_6013.htm

It really is simple ... If you don't know what you are talking about ... STFU!
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Old October 8th, 2008, 08:11 PM   #24
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Ok guys to your corners and when the bell rings come out fighting a clean fight.














Ding ding.
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Old October 8th, 2008, 08:40 PM   #25
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Easiest way to check a capacitor= Stick it up ScOoTeRs but, if he smiles it's good. No smile it's bad.
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