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Old September 14th, 2008, 03:17 PM   #21
curt1656
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damn that really sucks
X2
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Old September 14th, 2008, 03:58 PM   #22
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spine count?

It's from a '95 4 cyl which would make it a short input 21 spline.
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Old September 14th, 2008, 05:31 PM   #23
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ill go check the stock in the am
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Old September 15th, 2008, 09:17 PM   #24
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Bummer thats why I would never flat tow with shafts in
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Old September 15th, 2008, 09:21 PM   #25
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I think there's a couple of good deals on the trailers on this site...
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Old October 4th, 2008, 09:36 PM   #26
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I had the rear output shaft bearing weld itself and then blow the bearing housing apart break the yoke and send the drive shaft flying only after it beat the piss out of the underside of the Jeep. That was on a D20, in neutral about 450 miles into a 800 mile trip some where between WV and OH.
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Old October 5th, 2008, 08:00 PM   #27
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Aren't we all forgetting something... fix all Duct-Tape!!!
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Old October 6th, 2008, 09:30 AM   #28
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I think there's a couple of good deals on the trailers on this site...
Matt, GL member "Itchy" has or had a really nice trailer for sale that I almost bought about a month ago... it was about 2" too narrow for my TJ though, so I went another route. I've got pics of it if you are interested.
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Old October 6th, 2008, 09:34 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scramblerman72 View Post
Bummer thats why I would never flat tow with shafts in
this is the exact reason that I said to pull the shafts when a guy asked about this about a year ago.....I got flamed for suggesting to pull the shaft that had a slip yoke on it.
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 09:10 PM   #30
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sorry to hear that!

But yeah I don't understand how he could pull the shaft if its a slip yoke?
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 09:28 PM   #31
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I might have an extra jeep case, but IIRC all I have left are chevy cases...
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Old November 2nd, 2008, 11:39 PM   #32
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Oh nice, I see this before I start flat towing mine.

Time to read up on the procedure for flat towing Toyota's.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 08:03 PM   #33
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I've got a new to me t-case sitting in the garage right now so i'm good there, thanks for the offer though jeepfreak.

Rebel - just pull the shafts and you should be okay. One other thing that can be a big issue is if you have a locker in the front end. That might make it not want to steer. Then just take it for a practice spin. and see how it goes. I flat towed mine for hundreds of miles before I had a problem and then it was cuz, I'm an idiot. I forgot that when you put a MP231 in neutral, it locks the front and rears together. Well, I have an unbalanced front shaft so I'm sure it burnt the bearings up and exploded them.

I may flat tow again, but not for long distances and not without pulling the shafts.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 08:35 PM   #34
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Manual hubs make it pretty nice for me. I did know about removing shafts, but I've read a few people say to put the Tcase in Neutral, and put the trans in a high gear.

I'm just trying to get everything straight before I take the 45 minute drive up to the Mounds. I have taken it on a practice run and it tracks very well, no problems on a quick 10 minute drive.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 11:56 PM   #35
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I've got manual hubs too (waggy dana 44). I was and always have flat towed with the t-case in neutral and the tranny in gear. If you're driveshafts are balanced and you leave them in you should be okay but on the other hand, it's only 8 bolts to remove the d-shafts from the axle end and 2 bungee cords to hold them up.

Good luck and I wish the best with the towing. For me the worst part is actually controlling my rig behind me. the front end is too slinky and makes it swerve like a bitch at speeds above 55. If you find that to be the case, you might consider binding your rigs front suspension with something. I used cheapy harbor frieght ratchet straps (small ones) but I broke alot of them too. When it's bound down it pulled well.
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Old November 4th, 2008, 01:16 AM   #36
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I don't know about the t-case in this vehicle, but my D300 shouldn't be towed over 50 miles or so in neutral with the rear driveshaft connected. This is because it is the rotation of the INPUT shaft on the D300 that causes the splash lubricaation that lubes the gears on the OUTPUT shaft, which will be turning if the rear ddriveshaft is connected. To be safe (and leave the rear driveshaft connected), one should stop every 50 miles or so, get in the Jeep and start it, put the tansmission in gear (leave the t-case in neutral) and let the engine run for a few minutes. This will spin the input shaft on the D300 enough to lubricate the output gears for another 50 miles or so.

I used to do that when towing up to the West Branch area. But on a 400 mile trip down South, it got old really quick. So I started disconnecting my driveshafts from then on. I didn't remove the driveshafts. I just disconnected the u-joint from the diff yoke on the front and rear shafts, put a piece of tape around the u-jopint bearing cups, and tied up the shafts to the frame. I disconnected the front shaft just in case the t-case jumped into gear during the tow. It was easier to disconnect the diff end of both driveshafts that it was to completely remove the rear driveshaft. Plus it was less messy.

I don't have to worry about and of that now, since I converted my rear axle with a Warn full-floater kit and put manual lock-out hubs on the rear. Now I just have to unlock all four hubs and I'm ready to go.

However, I still trailer it just about everywheere. If I bugger up the steering , or a spindle bearing goes bad on the trail, I wouldn't be able to flat-tow it.

There are some definite advantages to flat-towing: (1) Less strain on the towing vehicle due to no trailer weight; (2) No tongue weight on the rear of the tow vehicle; (3) The flat-towed Jeep sits closer to the ground, so less wind reistance on the highway and better MPG; (4) It's usually quicker to hook up a flat-towed Jeep than to hook up a trailer and load up a Jeep on the trailer.

There are also some disadvantages to flat-towing vs. trailer towing: (1) As mentioned above, some problems/carnage will prevent flat-towing back from the trails; (2) Lack of tongue weight, coupled with a slightly loose front suspension/steering on the Jeep can result in some "wobble" problems not seen with a properly setup trailer; (3) Can't properly back up with a flat-towed Jeep.
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Old November 4th, 2008, 08:58 AM   #37
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I have learned from your bad luck..I will now pull the driveshaft every time.
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Old November 4th, 2008, 09:04 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSailor View Post
I don't know about the t-case in this vehicle, but my D300 shouldn't be towed over 50 miles or so in neutral with the rear driveshaft connected. This is because it is the rotation of the INPUT shaft on the D300 that causes the splash lubricaation that lubes the gears on the OUTPUT shaft, which will be turning if the rear ddriveshaft is connected. To be safe (and leave the rear driveshaft connected), one should stop every 50 miles or so, get in the Jeep and start it, put the tansmission in gear (leave the t-case in neutral) and let the engine run for a few minutes. This will spin the input shaft on the D300 enough to lubricate the output gears for another 50 miles or so.
You can also lock the hubs in for flat towing on a d300 to lube the front of the case. I wouldn't do it over a 100 mile flat tow, but it can be done.

I have flat towed for years but now i just pull the Drive-shats at the axle like you do for anything over 100 miles.

Good information on the flat towing
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Old November 4th, 2008, 09:24 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by mpwal099 View Post
jb weld it. all will be better.
they actually make a millitary grade jb weld to seal engine blocks that crack
so this is not so far fetched but that definitely sucks
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Old May 31st, 2009, 06:17 PM   #40
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Revving an old thread because I am researching flat towing my Bronco 2. I can understand disconnecting the rear drive shaft, but if I just left the hubs unlocked would there be any reason to disconnect the front shaft?
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