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Old September 22nd, 2008, 10:43 AM   #21
bj house
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It's hard on your springs as well do be compressing them until the rear of the trailer hits the ground (ask Kaiser420) . I plan on making fixed L shaped ramps for my new trailer but it's not a dovetail.

What scares me more than anything is if the ball coupler let loose it would shoot skyward with a whole lot of force.
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Old September 22nd, 2008, 08:17 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Sandals View Post
x2 i thought thats what the dovetail was for


Dovetail??
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Old September 22nd, 2008, 08:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
or for those of us that choose not to abuse are parking pawls in our trannies
Umm, pretty sure if you have decent tires and 4wd, you shouldn't be pushing the trailer...
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 12:57 AM   #24
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parking prawl? is that a part of them newfangled autermatic self shifting gizmo's? what do they call them, "turbo hydromatic" or something? i think ive heard them advertised.

yes, the ramps with legs are the way to go. its pretty easy to figure out what the best way is, just go look at any real trailer's ramps, and you find spring assisted ramps with support legs. you will also find the "slider tubes" as mentioned above. the key is to leave them somewhat loose, allowing about 2-4 inches space between them and the ground, that way they wont be tight against the ground once loaded.
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 04:45 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
or for those of us that choose not to abuse are parking pawls in our trannies
Isn't that what the E-brake is for?
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Old September 23rd, 2008, 12:03 PM   #26
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What's an E-Brake???

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Old September 23rd, 2008, 12:08 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by busyfixin View Post
parking prawl? is that a part of them newfangled autermatic self shifting gizmo's? what do they call them, "turbo hydromatic" or something? i think ive heard them advertised.
"A power transmission has a parking pawl which is engageable with a toothed
member on the transmission output shaft to prevent rotation of the output
shaft when the parking pawl is set. The pawl is manipulated by a manual
selector shaft and a detent plate. The detent plate is also drivingly
connected with a transmission range selector valve through a pin which
engages an annular groove in the selector valve. The pin is driven by a
cam on the detent plate and is guided in a pair of longitudinal slots
formed on the valve body which slidably houses the selector valve. "



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Isn't that what the E-brake is for?
parking brake, sure if my 87 suburban cables and related weren't fubared from Michigan weather. Then yes.
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Old October 2nd, 2008, 12:38 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj house View Post
What scares me more than anything is if the ball coupler let loose it would shoot skyward with a whole lot of force.
Had that happen.....fuckin sucks donkey dick....specially when the trailer flys up, comes unhooked, flys forward, slams down on the top edge of the tailgate and slides down the skin of the tailgate diggin and rippin it apart and finally ruining the bumper as it lands there.....all of this can easily be prevented by wrapping the slack in the chains around your receiver while loading something to hold it down if you're nervous about your coupler, or if you have a dumbass brother who forgets to lock it.....

Here's some pics of what happened to me. I was stripping a non-drivable Ford Explorer, and since we had a backhoe handy, and the sploder was goin to the boneyard, we thought it'd be fun to try and load the explorer a little different way.....By stabbing the claw tipped bucket through the roof, and biting into the sheetmetal skin of the roof, picking it up by that....Well once it was about 2/3 of the way over the back of the trailer, the roof ripped, the sploder fell and all hell broke loose on the truck hooked to the trailer as the coupling let loose. Forgive me for the shitty 1/3 megapixel cameraphone quality. You can kind of get an idea of what was going on.....





Yea....that was a fun night.....lucky no one got killed...

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Originally Posted by busyfixin View Post
yes, the ramps with legs are the way to go. its pretty easy to figure out what the best way is, just go look at any real trailer's ramps, and you find spring assisted ramps with support legs. you will also find the "slider tubes" as mentioned above. the key is to leave them somewhat loose, allowing about 2-4 inches space between them and the ground, that way they wont be tight against the ground once loaded.
If you look in this bad example.....you can see the ramps I use. They have legs sticking down at about a 90 degree angle to the ramp, with rebar tieing the tip of the leg, to the tip of the ramp that makes contact with the ground. That way, the leg doesn't want to bend over on you. They are a very heavy duty design. And extremely heavy in general. Sorry for the bad pic again.

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Old October 2nd, 2008, 10:15 AM   #29
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Scissor jacks like camper trailers and a cordless electric impact for your lazy ass to put them up and down with.
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Old October 2nd, 2008, 11:19 AM   #30
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i use my jackstands since i carry them with me anyway (when on a wheeling trip that is)
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