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Old August 12th, 2008, 07:47 PM   #1
skilled4reel
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Default Newbie needs help!!!!!

I am looking into purchasing my first 4x4. I have decided to go with the toyota pick up. What years 80's thru 90's are are better and why? 4cyl vs 6cyl which is better and why?
Thanks guys
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Old August 12th, 2008, 08:03 PM   #2
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From what I have read, the earlier trucks had the solid axle which is better. But they are getting hard to find in not rusted out shape. The latest 4 wheel and off road has a big toyota spread. You can probably check on their website for the same info.
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Old August 12th, 2008, 08:32 PM   #3
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When did they stop with the straight axles in the front do you know?
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Old August 13th, 2008, 05:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
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When did they stop with the straight axles in the front do you know?
1985 was the last year.

Selling mine, but its, lets say, not for beginners.
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Old August 19th, 2008, 10:38 PM   #5
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thanks guys
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Old August 20th, 2008, 11:29 AM   #6
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22RE 4cyl is very reliable and if truck is geared correctly has enough power to get you anywhere you need to go it is slow but it just keeps going, 3.0 V6 does not have as good of a reputation. The one in my 894Runner was replaced @ 140K.
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Old August 20th, 2008, 06:34 PM   #7
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Yep, I agree on the 22RE, especially if you maintain it. Do the basic tune up stuff, so often people are down on power due to bad ignition, gunked intakes, bad wiring, etc, etc, etc.

Running the last 3 years with a 22RE and 36 or 38.5 swampers. It was slow, but, I can't say I ever couldn't make something because of not having the power. Most of the time, a 4.0 or V8 Jeep wasn't following me, not the other way around.
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Old August 21st, 2008, 01:13 PM   #8
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i have the 3.0L in my truck and it runes great , just hit 213000 and has never had motor work done to it.
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Old August 21st, 2008, 01:35 PM   #9
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but '85 was the golden year since it was the only year to have solid axle and fuel injection. If you go older than '85, you can either run the carb (which is fine for flatland wheelin) or throw propane on it for $300-400 to effectively get fuel injection. If newer than '85, try to find someone who already has done a SAS (solid axle swap), or just rock the IFS and plan on upgrading later.

Either way, get the 4cyl (22R carb'd/22RE fuel injected). The 6 cyls are notorious for being shitty. Sure there are a few here and there that keep running, but for the most part they are avoided by die hard Toyota guys.
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Old August 21st, 2008, 08:33 PM   #10
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If I were you I would consider these factors.

1. Base model, 4cyl, 2WD: Cheapest option to consider and it would probably fit my current needs.

2. Base model, 6cyl, 2WD: A bit more expensive, more power for freeway driving, fits my current needs very well.

3. Base or Sport model, 6cyl, 4WD: An optimal long term choice, all the power and 4WD for all road conditions (probably very fun to drive!).
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Old August 21st, 2008, 11:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skilled4reel View Post
I am looking into purchasing my first 4x4.

Quote:
Originally Posted by khooper View Post
If I were you I would consider these factors.

1. Base model, 4cyl, 2WD: Cheapest option to consider and it would probably fit my current needs.

2. Base model, 6cyl, 2WD: A bit more expensive, more power for freeway driving, fits my current needs very well.

3. Base or Sport model, 6cyl, 4WD: An optimal long term choice, all the power and 4WD for all road conditions (probably very fun to drive!).
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Old August 22nd, 2008, 08:39 AM   #12
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i have an 88 I am wiling to selling. its in the proscess of having a brand new 22re put in.. PM me if your interested has a 4" lift and newer 33 swampers
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Old August 22nd, 2008, 05:01 PM   #13
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Check this out, not too wild but does good offroad.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=98075
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Old August 22nd, 2008, 09:03 PM   #14
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ill add some. i have a 85 4 runner and it is gr8. but if you are planning on going with a straight axle and hysteer just get a ifs truck (86 and newer) the ifs is a gr8 mild wheeler and if you really like it all the stuff you spent the extra money on to get the 85 will be gone. new spring hangers for the longer flexer springs, and if you go to a hysteer setup you have to switch to a ifs steering box anyways. i also own a 89 pickup and it does fine except on the real twisty stuff. i owned a 3.0 4 runner and it ran gr8 up untill i sold it and is still running with over 300k. but the only time i realized the difference was on hyway there was more power. wheeling was same as my 22re. and was not worth the 13-15 mpg i got with the 3.0 aka 3.slow. i know it is kinda rambly and scattered but i think i covered everything in my opinion.
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Old August 26th, 2008, 10:46 AM   #15
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things i have learned

toyotas are pretty damn easy to work on
the breaks on these things are better than fullsize trucks at the time (monster drums, rotors and 4 piston calipers)
the axles will blow a jeep's axle's right out of the water.
the 22re is probably pretty reliable (when i had mine i had alot of bugs with it)

would i buy another one if i had the cash? hell yes.

personally i think for mild wheeling/daily driving the IFS is great.
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Old September 8th, 2008, 03:19 AM   #16
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Defiantly would go with a Toyota. You can beat the crap out of them and they keep going. Espeaicaly when they're stock. If your still looking I have a 1990 for sale 4wd reg. cab 22re.
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Old September 8th, 2008, 08:41 PM   #17
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My list:

1st one: 1989 XtraCab 31x11.50 (not 10.5s) Muddiggers. 22RE/5spd. 163k with a wrist pin rattle when I sold it but it still ran very strong for a 22RE. Beat the crap out of it and really hadn't had a lot of problems.

2nd: 1991 4Runner 31x10.5 BFG ATs. Pretty much stock. I never really beat on this one. 22RE/5spd. 246k on it when I sold it and ran like new!!

3rdcurrent) 2004 DoubleCab 3.4/auto. Love it!!! Has never let me down. 42k (ain't even broke in)

For a beginner truck an IFS model will be fine. If you are taller, you may want an XtraCab. The 22RE is the motor to go with. My XtraCab knocked down 20-25 on the highway with a K&N air filter. They are fairly simple to work on too. Just get a Haynes or Chiltons for help. You can always do a straight axle conversion later if you want. All Pro makes some neat stuff but there are a ton of aftermarket parts available for Toys.

There is a '95 4Runner in the Bay City Times for @ $1200 right now. Needs some bodywork though. There was also one in Gladwin on M61 but I have 0 info on that one.
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Old October 19th, 2008, 09:49 AM   #18
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You might want to post up what type of wheeling you want to do. That will drive what suspension and engine are best.

If power is an issue (you wanna wheel in sand for instance...), don't even bother with the 22RE, the 3.0 V6 puts out more torque at idle than the 22RE does peak making it much better suited for a truck. 22RE's are not bombproof, they blow up all the time, they are just easier and cheaper to fix than the V6. You will not get V6 power out of that 4 cylinder without spending thousands and at that point longevity is down the toilet. The 22RE will save you a lot in fuel though.

You can put a solid axle in any year Toyota if that is what you want. Kits are available from many vendors. Now, something a lot of people seem to either not know or leave out, the production solid axle 85 (for example) drivetrain and steering is NOT as strong as the IFS that followed. However, there are aftermarket upgrades available for the solid axle which can make it far stronger than the IFS. You'll break birfields and bend J arms long before you snap a half shaft. These upgrades are not cheap, search on cross-over steering and birfield upgrades.

I would select the newest vehicle in the best condition you can find, 4x4 of course. Make sure the options fit your list of wants, make sure they work, then build the truck the way you want it. You'll learn a lot about your truck that way and building trucks is fun.

Frank
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Old October 19th, 2008, 04:06 PM   #19
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I had a link somewhere for 3.4 to replace the 3.0. There is a huge difference in those engines. I drove a 3.slo and didn't feel much difference between that and the 22RE. The 3.4 is much stronger. Not sure about the steering on the solid axle but replacing idler arms on the 86-95 runs @ $200. The newer rack and pinion rattles still vibrates some even after it is urathane-bushed but it is much better.

All-Pro has some nice SAS kits.
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Old October 20th, 2008, 01:40 PM   #20
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Not sure how much you want to spend, but a 96 or newer has some advantages in that you can get the 3.4 V6 as mentioned and find one with the factory locker. With just a little dough you can have a capable truck which will take you some fun places. As you gain experience and learn where you like to wheel you can build your truck accordingly.

All I'm gonna say about the 22RE is drive one and compare it apples to apples. Find a 3.0 5 speed truck and then a 22RE 5 speed stuck, the 3.0 will pack the 22RE in a pipe and smoke it all day long. Take that 22RE truck and put it against an automatic 3.0 V6 4runner which weighs many hundreds of pounds more and the difference will seem less.

Frank
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