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Kyle M. Ranger Truggy, rebuilt again - Revision 4

345K views 3K replies 162 participants last post by  Mr. Beefy 
#1 · (Edited)
I like to share what I am doing, like to take pictures, and I don't know about you guys, but I love lookin at em too.

SO here is my build, It is well underway, but here is the cut and pasted to date version.

So here goes, a 93 X cab, 4.0, 5 speed, Booger green as my Wife and kids call it, that is where the name comes from. A 6" suspension lift via rough country drop brackets, 6" skyjacker coils in the front and a chevy 63", 7" shackel and I replaced the factory lift block with a lift block, same height but had correction in it for pinion angle. And a 2" body lift....



At this point it was still serving DD and weekend wheeling duties, I was running 35's with 4.88 gears, trac lock rear, open front. It did pretty good, but I was ready to start making some changes....then this happend 6/18/10


So at that point it was time to come up with a new plan. I have already been wanting to do a SAS with my EB D44 so I figure there is no better time than now.

So the hunt began for a new "parts" truck that I could use the frame, front clip and a few other parts from. I decided I wanted to shorten my wheel base so I started looking for a regular cab truck. With just under a week of looking I found this beauty, a 93 4 poper flatbed




She's cute huh? Good shape in all the right spots. Runs like a top, drove it home and I only gave $450 for it....gonna part it out to get some of my money back.

So the plan is to use that frame, use my X cab and that front clip. As far as the bed goes, maybe a bob, maybe a truggy. All my motor and trans are going on the 2wd frame....should be a fun truck.

Anyways, on for the progress, got my 44 in the garage and started the tear down


Then I started to order SAS parts....got a set of Fox 16" air shocks coming, a few heims, picked up my 2" OD X.250 tube to extend the radius arms and some 1.250" OD X.250 tube from my track bar and drag link. Ordered some 4.88 gears today and some 7* radius arm bushings. I am going to go a pick up my disk brake set up for my 44 sometime soon too. I got lots of work to do!

Here are some pictures of the my smashed truck...



 
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#675 ·
I know the one I have comes out at 90* tight to the block. Pretty sure its this one, if not it is the non bypass version with only a single in and out. It is brand new, never even test fitted. I already had one and this was included in the kit I bought to put the 5.0 in my 2wd


 
#681 ·
I know where he works, I could always swing by when I get out.
This will work, I can bring it with me tomorrow. What time will you get out of work John? I don't start until 6pm, but I could get there a little bit earlier if you wanted.
 
#683 ·
Sounds good, I will toss it in the car when I get home in the AM just to make sure I have it. I will see you Thursday.
 
#685 ·
I bought a set of 289 manifolds from somebody on this site that used them in a Ranger like yours. They were to close to my firewall in my 90 Bronco2 so I didnt use em. LMK if you wanna see em.

Also, I used a Canton 90º adapter for my oil filter relocation. Its a way nicer part than those others.
 
#688 · (Edited)
Those do fit quite nicely. How much below the frame is your exhaust tubing? From the pics it looks rather low, might be prone to mother nature re-adjusting them for you:naughty::naughty: Have you thought about adding to your cross member to include oil pan protection?

Kyle & John - The block adapter is in my car ready for tomorrow :thumb:
John - Give me a call when you leave work, thanks.
 
#696 ·
I need a bit of help....

I went out and measured all my yokes for drive shafts. I have (2) 205's, ones has 1330 yokes and the other has 1310 yokes front and rear.

I measured my front 60 and that has a 1330 yoke and my 14 bolt has a 1350 yoke.

Ok, with all that done, I know I don't want to run a 1330 joint right? I hear they are junk.

I want to run a 1310 joint in the front for space reasons and I have (3) 1310 shafts, but that means I need a new yoke for the 60 to do that. I found one on JBG for $62, sound alright?

Then on the rear I was thinking of running a 1350 joint which means I need a new yoke for my 205. I also need to find a shaft or 2 I can use to make a new one for me. I found a 205 yoke for $59, resonable?

Can I run a 1310 on the rear also? Would it be strong enough? I have a couple of those shafts already too, but it looks like I can't get a 1310 yoke and would need to mod the 1350 yoke or run a conversion joint. Would that be bad?


What should I do for shafts? 1310 on the front and 1350 in the rear? Or 1310's all around with a conversion joint at the 14bolt?

Thanks
 
#697 ·
I did the whole conversion joint thing on my rear driveshaft. It worked at first but became a hassle and joints broke etc.

Running straight 1350 on the rear now and haven't had any issues. I found a driveshaft from 3/4 ton chevy vans and suburbans were an easy junk yard mark for 1350s.

I've been running 1310 on the front with no issues since getting the right style tcase yoke.

I would get the trail repair yoke kit from jbg vs just the yoke on the front. Couple $ more and get quite a bit more.
 
#698 ·
I'm running a 1310 to 1330 conversion joint on the front and a 1310 to 1350 conversion joint on the rear. Both 1310 CV's at the T-case. I carry a spare of each conversion joint as CTB2 pointed out that the conversion joints aren't usually in stock in BFE when you need them most. I also bring spare front and rear DS with me. I'm linked in the rear so I don't have nearly as much axle wrap to deal with as a leaf setup. I don't actually wheel, and when I do I rarely use the go pedal so this probably adds nothing to this conversation :sonicjay:. I still have CTB2's box of spare driveshaft components I can bring over to him. I have to go get my limit straps from this summer anyway. :teehee: The trail repair kit seemed like the most bang for the $ when I was debating on changing the D60 yoke. :thumb:
 
#699 ·
The trail repair kit is $69 verse the $62 for just the yoke. Ok, gonna run a straight 1310 in the front.

I might just buy a conversion joint for the rear right now, because i don't feel like spending $100 buying new shafts to make a 1350 and the rear 205 yoke. I can spend $25 now on a 1310 to a 1350 joint and just start collecting parts to make a 1350 rear shaft.
 
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