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Old June 23rd, 2014, 06:39 PM   #21
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I found some that are counter bored for the center pin,steel
Probably gonna go that route
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Old June 24th, 2014, 09:17 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato2k5 View Post
Only way I would do it is if they were made of steel. Then weld them to the spring perch.

Guy who runs silver lake with me had aluminum shims in front, they broke on the sand and he had to use his winch to keep axle in place back to camp.
I have to disagree with welding a shim. The shim becomes a part of the spring pack, not the perch. Correct installation of a shim requires that you clamp the springs, remove the center bolt, and then install the shim with a new center bolt. The head of the center bolt then locates into a slignment hole on the perch when you bolt it up.

Depending on the brand of lift, and the brand of shim, it may become necessary to drill the center bolt holes on the springs. This is not an easy job for many and frequently breaks drill bits. If you are not confident in doing this you will need to make sure tha the shims and springs use the same diameter bolt.

Personally, I would only run steel shims. I have never seem an aluminum fail, but it really isn't worth the risk to me. The shim MUST BE the same width as the leaf spring, and spend the extra $30 to replace the U-bolts. Standard axle maintenance rules apply: Tighten even, torque, drive a few miles, check torque, and if it is off figure out why. Then recheck the torque again after a 100 or so miles.

If you are going to make the investment into shim, I recommend making friends with someone at an alignment shop. Let them know what you are doing, and that it will take several trips (most will cut you a deal). A good shop will know that you are going for your desired caster, then correcting the camber if need be, and then the alignment.
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Old June 24th, 2014, 11:57 AM   #23
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I've got shims on my k5 have never had an issue with running shims in front or rear
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