I would first like to thank my grandparents and especially my grandpa for all of his help with the build. I have been doing all of the work in his shop with his help. This both of ours first truck build but, not his first time in the garage... Ill let you see some of the toys that have rolled out of the garage before :naughty:
As of now
99 Blazer zr2
4.3 v6
-msd ignition
-jba headers egr delete
-flowmaster super44
-gibson 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust
-missing kitty
5 speed
31 bfg at's
torsion bar lift
lift shackles
homemade front bumper
Motor should be out by tonight! I'm pretty sure I can leave the headers on, I had to pull the steering shaft of but it should be worth it. Now the only thing left is the pita bell housing bolts.
what about a 5.3 swap? from what i understand you can pick them up fairly cheap and you still get efi and there are kits for the wiring bs and what not.
Man, I remember having a problem like this in my Sonoma. On the driver's side, deep in the dash there is a relay box thing that has shitty connections and when those get loose/corroded, the truck won't start. You can get to it from under the dash if you're flexable but you might be better off to pull the lower panels off and the dash bezel too. On S-10forum there is some info but it might be archived by now.
For the record quick dry was put down for all of the spilled antifreeze.
Also if you ever get a chance to use a rechargeable shop light you will never go back to a corded one. I got this one at autozone for $20 and it was awesome to not be dragging and tripping on a cord everywhere. That and it fits in the tool bag for wheeling.
Nope no bs. The campus pd just asked that I have it done within a week. They were very understanding that shit happens and college kids are broke. Every time I'm out there I spend about 5 to 10 mins talking to each cop that rolls by, they just bs cars and ask how the swap is going. Hell they don't even care if I'm out there drinking a beer. :beerbang:
Here's what I cooked up for dinner the other night
Rattle can ceramic coating, should help with under hood temps and I had headers off anyways so I figured I'd try it.
I got these after burning up two wires in the dunes last year but never got them all on until now. Hopefully these combined with the coating will be the end of my burnt wire days.
It took a lot more time than what it should of but its in there! I had to undo my track bar to get it to fit though, however it looks like it might still work if not I'll have to swap oil pans.
Tomorrows plan is to start on it in the morning and get as far as I can before work, then maybe just maybe finish it up tomorrow night!!
My old one has a remote mount oil filter and it is very thin along thhe front half and has a large drop in the rear. The new pan has the oil filter in the rear and is thicker throughout with a smaller drop in the rear.
The problem is in the front were the track bar runs under the pan. Its close but might work, I'll have to flex it before I know. That and the new drain plug location dumps the oil out on the front diff :whiz:
You most likely have a 2wd version motor . Is it a alum pan or steel ? I would recomened swaping pan now you should be able to just un bolt filter adapter off new motor to put your oil cooler back on . I have a cooler of a zr2 on my 383
But it runs! with no thanks to Freaks distributor placement oke:
I would finish it tonight but I might need a trip to the hospital that or a beer. I leaned over the radiator to add coolant with it running, and found out that the core support with out the fenders attached can move A LOT. The fan hit the upper shroud and it blew up in my face. So now im missing a good sized chunk from my inner lip
But I'm so happy right now I really don't care, but the morning might be a different story :sonicjay:
:naughty: I wont be able to go with you to pick it up because of work, but Id like to check it out up at R&V. Let me know if you and Dre need a place to crash.
wheel the one your gunna get tommarow just messing
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