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Project "retard"

16K views 98 replies 26 participants last post by  motox168 
#1 ·
The truck as I bought it, 44/9 SAS on Leafs, Spool in the rear trutrack in the front, sitting on 35's, it has the stock 4.3 with headers and some mild computer tuning, not sure on how much lift since I bought it with the SAS from somebody on here.


I have a heavy right foot so the tow rig was naturally next.


I'm also known for destroying axle shafts (mostly ujoints to be honest) with the 44/9 the truck weighs in at 4500 lbs so that might be part of it, but my size 15's don't help, thus the build name.
Originally I was going to rebuild the 4L60E and put tons under it, run a 231/300 doubler.
After a year of :blah: it never got done, but I was still wheeling the piss out of it.
New years I took it up to R&V needed to change a Ujoint when I got there (knew it was bad when I was loading it on the trailer) then I noticed the 233 was cracked (again). Once the ujoint was in the truck failed to start. The S10 fuel pump strikes again, It started and ran just fine when I loaded it onto the trailer, and never made it off. :sonicjay:
I started looking into fuel pumps, $250 on up, I head about a ton of issues with bad aftermarket pumps, pumps burning up fast. Basically spend the money on a new GM pump or be swap it every year. Here is the solution to the problem.

The 4.3 wasn't enough. :naughty: So a Gen I 350 is going into its place. Motor was rebuilt less than 10000 miles ago, punched .30 over with an RV cam, nothing to wild.
Now, why would I want to switch to a carb after running fuel injection?
To be honest I don't.


So I picked up that gem. Propane kit with 2 tanks. Anybody want to buy a holly?
So, next everyone will ask, "If you are already breaking axle shafts, why are you putting in a V8?"

Easy answer, Dodge D60's I'm estimating my width to be about 80" outside of tire to outside of tire, once its all said and done, very rough estimation as I have not yet selected rims and tires.
I am thinking 5.13 gears, since I am going to have the doubler, I picked dodge axles so I could run the 300 right side up, with half the cost of a ford, and having a leaky tcase.

I was still thinking of running the 4L603 but it needed a rebuild, plus if I was going to remove the electronics from the motor, why would I want an electronic trans, so I made the guy with the motor an offer on the transmission, 700R4 rebuilt at the same time as the motor, shifts good, I got to test drive it before it got removed.
 
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#18 ·
Fuck it, take the whole front clip off :teehee: need the room to work anyway.

I was too slow so JJ pulled my crossmember and tcase. :sonicjay:

Well the motor is out... :teehee:

And pushed back out of the garage to be taken up next sunday.
 
#23 ·
Front axle is out, old spring hangers are off, gears and spools showed up, install kits bought. Need to get kingpin kits, other then that I think I have all the odds and ends to get the front axle installed again.
 
#30 ·
Was mounting leaf springs too much work :poke: do you have the motor in yet.
Shhhh.... Im learning too much as I go.
Leaf springs were turning into a PITA, had to put the perches partially on the frame in the rear, then the hangers half way outside in the frame at the front, reinforce it all and then not get the axle located where I wanted it, then, eventually wanting to do links anyway... well, why wait to upgrade? This way I can locate the axle so the tires wont come into the cab... Better articulation, better ride, you get the idea...
Now, do I want to do a set of ZJ coils, or, do I want to go coilovers? :bdr2:
 
#33 ·
I'm leaning to coil overs... Don't want to overwork airs hocks If I start racing...

until I can get the motor in, and all the small stuff like shifters and what not (this is getting expensive) and have a budget, though, I will be watching creepies thread, and others, for sale items.
 
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