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WhiteRhino's Latest Mods

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317K views 2K replies 189 participants last post by  whiterhino 
#1 ·
Sometime late last summer I was talking to Jim about modding his jeep and it snowballed and somehow I got in the middle of it. before I knew what was going on I agreed to build his jeep over again pretty much. The goal was lots of strength and a nice cushy ride while providing clearance for 40's in the future.

The entire build/arguing/problem solving thread is here: http://www.misfitoffroad.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=8991&start=0

it will be completely finished and wheelable in the next couple weeks.
here are a few pictures of the build:
 

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#3 ·
the people involved are:
my dad kb8ymf who helped a TON
whiterhino
79cj7-ryan (i think that's his screen name)
eman-eric
benny87-ben

all of these guys have helped out in one way or another, THANKS!
 

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#9 ·
Can you snap a photo of the rear tires on there, with the shock clearance?
maybe in a few days :tonka: we're still finishing the rear axle. the rear shock to everything clearance is TIGHT. 1/8" to the frame and I think a little less than that to the FAT iroks.

for reference, jims 37x14 iroks are 14.0 wide, my dads creepy crawlers are 13.0 and my trepadors are 12.5
 
#16 ·
:stan::stan::stan: :sonicjay:

Actually that was talked about last summer. In fact, I tried to buy Brain Baileck's at the last minute but I missed it by 2 days. After that I figured that there was nothing out there for sale that would be what I wanted so I went ahead with installing the 6.0 and the axle configuration I wanted.

Yes, the only thing remaining from the original jeep is half the frame & the crummy body.
 
#17 ·
it is going to be sweet...your not running a sway bar at all right? think it will be stable enough without? the 2.5 was a good choice.i am looking at a set for mine soon. so keep me posted on the feel, if it feels tippy or not.
 
#19 ·
I ran mine with no sway bar for almost 3 years, it isn't needed but I can say there is a noticable difference in stability on sidehills and off camber climbs. so much that you'd probably push your luck too much because of how stable it feels.

dialed in air shocks with good suspension geometry feel similar to coils with a stock flimsy sway bar. dialed in air shocks with a sway bar feels like a race car compared to coils.
 
#20 ·
is it better to run a sway bar in the rear, rather then the front? why? seems like the front would be better?i took my stock one off, but want to put a antirock on.i like how you can adjust the curries.
 
#21 ·
It's lookin' real good guys. All those hours of thinking, planning, tinkering are paying off. Lots of cool details. Pics don't do the quality of the work justice.

95geo/whiterino- correct me if I'm wrong 'bout the rear sway bar, but on a air shock suspension you can tie the front end up with your winch to limit suspension and sway. Can't do that with the rear. Azz end will try to pass the front on a corner if you drive hard on "civilized" roads.
 
#22 ·
Usually the winch is just used to lower the center of gravity to help it climb. It would do nothing for sway. All ass ends will pass the fronts on a wrangler if driven hard on the road too :sonicjay:
Looking good guys, when your done you can come over to help me finish mine if you want.
 
#23 ·
The enginner on this job failed on thing vertical weld should have plating to give it a little more strenght due to flexing that will cause breakage around the joints of welding. But then what do I know been around the blocks a few time and have seen a few broken frames...
 
#35 ·
Jim - With the lack of safety on your build kills you, I'll see you in heaven when my rig (much underbuilt from yours) fails, too. :poke:

As for the rear antisway, I'm sure you'll be alright. With no tuning on my rear airshocks, it does alright.



The one 60 shaft I broke was with no tire spin. I was climbing a wall, and only one tire had good traction. Bye bye shaft. It took the ears off my short side inner.
 
#36 · (Edited)
OK for some of you who are thinking I'm all wet behind the ears. The first place any butt joint breaks is before or after the weld the fish plating only spreads out the pressure on that joint to make sure you don't crack the area around the weld. Since you seem to be building more than a normal usage of a jeep for doing flexing and high impact off roading. The stress you are adding to the frame will be three to four times what the jeep was designed to do. And being that you made the new part of the frame out of heavier metal which means less flexing of the frame mean you transfer more stress to the old part of the frame. Granted I might be not seeing the splice you did inside of the old frame but I also didn't see any weld joints to that splice in any pictures. Call me a fool but over building something now is better than repairing something in the future IE on the trail in the middle of nowhere.
 
#38 ·
When it fails I will put some goober welds on it & it will be just fine.:sonicjay:

The portion of the frame that was scrapped was down to about .060 thick in spots & this jeep has already seen a fair share of flexing. I'm really not worried about the frame having a problem in that area. It is tied into the B and C hoops and they are tied together inside the cabin. So the structural integretity of this is not exactly stock either.

By the way, the engineer on the job was my 8 month old grandson.:tonka:
 
#41 ·
I side with 95geoboy on this one, if the b and the c from the cage are tied into the frame I don't really see that thing breaking.

I was looking at my jeep the last time I was working on it. I currently have the cage tied to the tube in 9 friggin places, tied to the frame in 4, and eventually it will be 6, when does the madness stop? Add in corner guards and rockerguards that will tie to the cage/frame/tub and it starts to really get ridiculous.

Take Whiterhino's jeep for example, are the links tied to the frame? of course right, then where do the shocks tie into the frame? Are they then tied into the tub or cage at all? once everything begins to all tie together in so many places it starts to get a little crazy and there really isnt much room for a total failure. It becomes so overengineered that you end up 1,000 pounds+ heavier then you needed to and you used a lot more material then you needed too and the damn thing lasts pretty much forever.

Johnnyj hit the nail on the head, I've seen him wheel, I've seen his pictures, he flat beats the shit out of his jeep, its very simple, very well done, and it rarely breaks, and other then sheetmetal, it doesnt look all that bent, twisted etc.

It's not a baja 1000 truck.
 
#48 ·
how would you two know?? like you guys have ever climbed anything...geeezzz were is the engineer....
 
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