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ranger vs s10 vs ?? for light duty hauling ONE TIME

23K views 207 replies 40 participants last post by  82cj7ltd 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright, so I don't run this conversation to run away on a name calling battle between chevy and ford (and maybe toyota, datsun, nissan, mazda ??) but here's the deal:
I'm planning on heading down to Georgia in a week to pick up some parts for my cj. The only item of significance weight wise is the fiberglass tub, at ~310 lbs. I don't have a vehicle that can haul, and I may or may not be able to borrow a friends 95? blazer with the 4.3 and ~150k miles. edit: Also will likely have access to a trailer that will be sufficient. I'm trying to solve the vehicle problem, not find a trailer, just to clear up any confusion.

I know the 4.3 is a good motor, but I've heard mixed reviews about the blazer. Since it's a 1400 mile round trip, I'd rather buy a cheap pickup for the trip, and then sell it afterwards then have the blazer break down on me. So here are the options I know of, please tell me the pros and cons of them
The main trucks am looking at are the Ranger and the S10. The foreign trucks listed aboveall tend to carry a higher price than I want.

So for the ranger, there's the 4 cyl 2.3, and the 3.0 and 4.0 v6. I personally prefer stickshift, plus it should net me better mpg on the freeway. The most this whole rig could weigh is ~1k pounds.
I'm wondering if the the ranger 2.3 is too underpowered to tow this light of a load at 70mph. I wont be trying to drive quickly, and I don't know if the smaller engine will save me gas or use more because it may be overloaded.

The 3.0 I don't see in stick form often, the 4.0 in manual I see more often.
Would a relaxed cruising speed on the freeway with the 4.0 net me better mpg than the 2.3 because it isn't as underpowered?
Also have been told the auto trannies are weaker on these trucks. Not sure if that's true, or whether people just overwork them and they overheat.

For the s10, I basically have the iron duke, the 2.8, and the 4.3. Same questions as above: what will be able to handle the load and net me the best mpg? I don't need lots of power, I just dont want to be way overworking the engine. I'll be taking it easy.

NOTE: I Will only be using this truck for the time it takes for me to go down south and back, until the time I can sell it as soon as I return. Can't have that kind of mpg for my commuting.

edit: I probably will not need 4x4 either, if that makes a difference.
 
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#6 ·
Also forgot to mention I've heard things about towing with a ranger (may apply to s10) that towing in 4th is better (take over drive off with an auto), because it is direct drive? or something like that.
Is this true? Any other similar things for the s10?
 
#9 ·
ok cool, good to know on the overdrive. Yea I know the 4cyl has only like 100hp, but I'm wondering if in stick form it would get better mpg towing that light of weight down the freeway at 70 or under than the 4.0? Which has like 160hp I think. Like am I so underpowered that it will only get worse? Or I'm underpowered if I want to go anywhere quickly?

What about the 3.0? And should I ditch the stick shift altogether? I think I'd get better mpg, and I enjoy it more, especially if the autos are weak...
 
#10 ·
yea, i know the 4.3 has plenty of power, but to be honest I'd rather have a little less power and better mpg for this long of a trip (720mi each way) than lots of power.
What kind of mpg are you guessing?

I guess I've never known where the breaking point is between small and big engines in pickups when towing at freeway speeds, or in general. and how auto vs manual plays into that.
 
#11 ·
Any of the vehicles mentioned will pull a 1000lb load. A Saturn with 4 college kids, tank of gas, and a trunk full of luggage headed to spring break is hauling close to 1000lb for fucks sake.

So your options are borrow a buddies 17 year old 150k mile blazer or buy someone's pos truck. Did you realize you could be fucking 700miles away from home when the used clapped out ranger/s10 breaks down?

Seriously take my cynicism with a grain of salt. I think you have a bad idea.
 
#13 ·
yea, but that saturn has lost ALL of its acceleration at that point, and if it's one of the really small ones, braking and everything else is totally changed. and mpg? forget it lol.
same with a truck I know, but I feel like towing a trailer is more serious.
Besides, saturns dont have hitches.... :sonicjay:

so are you suggesting I borrow the blazer? I wont get a junker trunk, I can find a good running and decent looking one, look up reviews for it and see if its dependable or not. Maybe do some preventive maintenance before I go. Are you saying both vehicle options are bad ideas? I wasn't sure about the blazers reliability, which seems to be mixed, which is why I was asking about that.
 
#12 ·
U not going able get good mpg with this.

Get 90's F150 with 300 6 cylinder with 5 speed 2wd plus 3.08 gear. I got 24 mpg on long highway at 65 mph but city it turd due 3.08 is highway gear.

And my old 1994 Explorer got 24 mpg out 4 speed auto with 4.0L OHV plus 3.73 on 300 miles highway. But average is 19-20 at 65 mph No cruise control.

3.0L you maybe not happy with power/gas.
 
#14 ·
hmmm alright, that's a possibility. so was I falsely informed when I was told by a few previous owners of those trucks that the the trannies tend to get messed up somehow? shift forks, t/o bearings, clutches, shifter housing plugs etc?

Yea, I guess an explorer or 90's suv are other options, I was just thinking a small 2wd pickup would be the suited to the job and fuel efficient. if those f150 5 speed trannies are dependable, I will definitely consider it strongly.

the 3.0 on the ranger? I'll be unhappy with the bad mpg I get for the power? What about the 4cyl and 4.0? I'd expect to be unhappy about the power from the 4cyl, but not the mpg. Not sure if the 4.0 would be the best because it's not underpowered? :confused:
 
#25 ·
Actually, none of the quotes I've gotten turned out that way. If you can find a way to get it shipped for $300, I'll do it....


This really wouldn't be much a debate for me. 1st thing, I probably wouldn't be taking a trip to georgia worry about mpg. 2nd thing, I wouldn't be taking a trip to georgia just for parts, but that's just me

If your buddy will lend you his blazer then you need to go with that. you don't have to worry about re-selling it; possibly loosing money, buying a decent truck that turns out to be a lemon. As long as you know that blazer and you know there aren't any big issues with it then it's a no-brainer. Use the free vehicle where all you have to pay is gas and maybe a few greenbacks towards your buddy
Yea I don't typically drive all the way down south for parts, but the tub was a great deal. I'm not worrying about the mpg so much I guess as I am wondering whether the 4cyl will be overworked and do terrible, while the v6 or straight six wouldn't be, so it would do better. Trying to figure out what's best suited to the job.

I'll have to see if he'll lend me his blazer. That is definitely my number one choice if he lets me, but idk if he will. And I'm NOT sure if there are any big issues with it, but if there are I know he wont let me take it.
 
#23 ·
This really wouldn't be much a debate for me. 1st thing, I probably wouldn't be taking a trip to georgia worry about mpg. 2nd thing, I wouldn't be taking a trip to georgia just for parts, but that's just me

If your buddy will lend you his blazer then you need to go with that. you don't have to worry about re-selling it; possibly loosing money, buying a decent truck that turns out to be a lemon. As long as you know that blazer and you know there aren't any big issues with it then it's a no-brainer. Use the free vehicle where all you have to pay is gas and maybe a few greenbacks towards your buddy
 
#26 ·
Your going to want/need at leat a 6 cylinder. Not so much for the load you're hauling but for the hills you'll be driving through. You'll def want a bigger 6 cyliner like a 4.3/4.0. No really so much for the hp but the torque; personally i'd go with a newish zj/xj, the 4.0s in them have a nice torque curve and should drive nice for the trip. plus their pretty easy to find.

Or a ford 4.0, or go with a fullsize with a straight 6/manual. They are great for towing. I'd go with a fullsize truck just because of the size you'll have more control of your trailer. Find a cheap gm w/t with a 4.3 manual. or even a 5.0 manual. I guess it really just depends on what your ok with buying and driving for a 1,400 mile round trip
 
#28 ·
hmm ok. that's what I needed to know, thanks. So should I stay away from the automatics in these fullsize trucks? I've seen the I6 in manual and auto form. Same with the 5.0, are these reliable as autos? (which I see more of). any reason to avoid the 350 with an auto trans?

One other thing, what about a dakota? the 3.9 magnum is a good engine and they seem to be pretty good trucks. a decent amount of them are manual too.
 
#27 ·
I would buy a 4cyl 5 speed s10 for light towing and decent gas milage.A freind pulls a small trailer with a skag zero turn,push mower,back pack blowers,weed whip,edger,gas cans and all his rakes and shovels.It pulls it fine and gets over 20 mpg loaded.
I have had a dozen 4.3 s10 autos and never got more then 16 mpg on a good day.A full size 1/2 ton chevy will do better with a v8. I drive hard,your results may be different.
The best mpg I ever got with a s10 had a dz302 from a 69 z28 and a t5 5speed.
I have a 99 explorer 4.0 awd that gets about 16 mpg.It tows a snowmobile trailer ok,but s10s have 30 more hp,and the trans in the ford never knows what gear it should be in.
My explorer is clean,only has 148,000 on it,it is full of new parts,there is no way I would trust it to go that far based on the few months I've owned it.
If it came down to a s10 or ranger,explorer or blazer I would pick the chevy everytime.
I hate fords but the 2wd f150 300 six with a stick is a good option.
 
#29 ·
ok awesome info. so ur in favor of the 4 cyl towing? what about a 4 cyl 5 speed ranger?

anyone have opinions on the 3.9 magum dakota manual?

So the options you give are a 4 cyl 5 speed truck, the ford i6, or a full size with v8? so, like a bit of everything, except the explorer?
 
#30 ·
I'm sorry but you are an idiot. If you have money to blow buying a truck to use for a weekend, then it will be a better use of your money to rent a pick-up and go get it. You can have the truck inspected but unexpected things happen, especially if you don't know the vehicle well. Not to mention you then have to resell the truck and hope you get your money back assuming nothing breaks on it.
 
#31 ·
lol i appreciate the compliment, but I'm actually pretty smart. The money will not be "blown." I have one other short distance hauling trip to do after I get home with the parts. Sure I have to resell the truck, but I don't have a problem with that. I'm not buying a piece of junk, only something that has been kept up.

At $315 for gas, and $800 to drive a rental truck, plus $315 in gas, I think driving a non rental is the better deal. Do the math.

If I buy a $1500 truck, I'll use it for 2 weekends. With the rental, I'd need it returned in 3 days or my price goes up. The rental is $800 that can't be recovered. The truck could be resold and the money would be recovered. Even if some things went wrong, I still have a cushion on price.

Also, the inspection has nothing to do with whether things will go wrong because I don't know the truck. I maintain the fluids, look and listen for issues, and take the advice of mechanics. Sure things can go wrong, but nothing will go wrong simply because I don't know the vehicle. I know of how to take care of cars.

You don't seem to have researched the suggestions YOU made, or else you would have realized how "idiotic" they are. just saying. and if you had read the posts before you, you'd see that the renting a truck from uhaul option is not a good one for me to consider.

thanks for your advice, if you have anything more helpful and less demeaning, feel free to post it. :thumb:
 
#33 ·
http://www.enterprise.com/car_renta...ionId=WebTransaction1&selectedLocationId=03X8

$52 for the day (so figure two days $104)

I figure on (Atlanta to Detroit for reference)

720 miles one way. You're allowed 150 miles per day or 300. YOu have to pay .25 a mile for the rest.

you're at $200 total so far. Now gas $4 a gallon over 720 miles at 15 mpg (should get better out of a new fullsize) another $200 in fuel.

Plus plane ticket.....


Buy a truck, put $1000 into it to make it road worthy, drive it down there, $400 in fuel, try to sell truck....This option doesn't look cheaper and has disaster written all over it.

Either ship the hard top, find a local hardtop, or realize you can't afford it.
 
#37 ·
I would not buy a truck for $1500 and drive down to Georgia and back just for a tub. You don't know any unknown problems that it will have. You could get down there, pick up the parts, then be 200 miles out of GA and break down and not have any money to fix your truck.

IMO It seems like too much of a hassle just for parts. Do you need to have these parts ASAP? Or are you just jumping on a good deal?
 
#42 ·
The other thing that hasn't been mentioned... if you buy a truck, you have to factor in your insurance jump for adding another vehicle to your insurance, paying taxes and title transfer fees, plates ect.



Either borrow your buddy's 4.3 blazer or have it shipped. If it was me, i'd borrow my buddy's blazer.
 
#47 ·
So may I be so bold as to return to my original topic?

Is the general consensus that a 4 cyl will be under-powered for even this little of a job?
Which of the 6 cyl (I6 and v6) seem to be the best for this, providing I find one in good shape?

The ranger- 3.0, 4.0 (manual or auto)
S10- 2.5, 2.8, 4.2 (manual or auto)
F150- 4.9 I6 (manual or auto) or v8???

any other truck suggestions?
As I said, I will certainly re-investigate quotes for renting trucks. if it is as clear and obvious of a decision as disorder shows it to be (which I dont believe it is), I will rent one for $400, no questions asked. When that doesn't include gas, (why would it)? and thus puts me back up to ~$700, I think I'll still want to stick with driving down there myself.
 
#53 ·
:sonicjay: I didn’t say there was a plethora of them, just that I’d be able to find a few. I don’t mind if they have rust, as long as there isn’t frame damage. Rockers that are rusted aren’t a big deal. I wont be keeping it long.


F No don't even put me in the same boat.

Ship it truck freight idiot. No screwing around with buying some pos that will break down and require fixing in another state. Or flipping messing wasting the amount of time driving. Just ship it truck freight and pick it up in a few days.

EASY!
Sorry for going off on you there. Just do the math. For the cost of the truck, fuel, tub, and your freaking time you can most likely buy one locally if your patient enough.
well, that's a first. an insulting yet helpful sugestion. :sonicjay:
shipping truck freight looks like it might actually be a bit cheaper. The only problem with that is I'd have to ship the front clip separately, which would also cost money. I just dont want it to get all scratched up and stuff and I figured I'm more careful than a couple random shipping guys. I'll look into it.
 
#49 ·
F No don't even put me in the same boat.

Ship it truck freight idiot. No screwing around with buying some pos that will break down and require fixing in another state. Or flipping messing wasting the amount of time driving. Just ship it truck freight and pick it up in a few days.

EASY!
 
#50 ·
Sorry for going off on you there. Just do the math. For the cost of the truck, fuel, tub, and your freaking time you can most likely buy one locally if your patient enough.
 
#52 ·
$700 to get the tub shipped or...

$1500 for a truck
$125 at the SOS for tax, title, and registration.
$75 for insurance for the month while you drive it and wait for it to sell.
$150 for tune-up and maintenance items to make it trip worthy.
$375 for fuel based on 1400 mile trip at 15 mpg $4.00 a gallon.
$25 for food.
-$1500 after selling the truck.
$750 grand total. That's assuming you bring someone with you and drive non-stop so no need for lodging.

I don't see where you think you will be saving so much money.
 
#56 · (Edited)
well first off, like I said, I didn't give all the details because this ISN'T what I asked for help on. just want to make that clear, sorry.
All the trucks I've found were $12-1500, and all said they would take $1200 or less, one would take $900. So recalculating the numbers gives:

$1200 for a truck
$110 at the SOS for tax, title, and registration.
My insurance is only $50 a month, and I will be driving it after I return home, so that doesn't even count.
$100- Of all these trucks, the most I needed was a shifter bushing. They all are older, but have recently had tuneups and such. I shouldn't be spending any more than $50 on it, but I'll split it with $150 and say
$300-Even renting a truck, I only had the fuel at ~$320. Should be less, since all the ones I'm considering get 18 or better. Likely to be <300, but I'l say .
Bringing my own food and cooler. Free.
-$1200 after selling the truck.

$510 grand total under my compromises in our price differences.
With some added details I know, it will probably end up at around $430.

THIS IS NEGLECTING THE FACT THAT THE FRONT CLIP ISNT SHIPPED FOR $700!!!!
that's another $250+, because though I get a discount for having things on the same truck, it still takes up space. I also have a box of parts, including a dash and other bulky things that will take up space.

Even given the $510 compromise, OR YOUR $750 initial guess, That's over $200 difference from yours, $400 from my in between guess, and around $470 under the fairly likely circumstances.
Why did I leave the other items details out in the first place???
Because I ASKED FOR HELP IN CHOOSING A GOOD VEHICLE NOT WHETHER OR NOT I WAS SMART, STUPID, BAD at MATH, or BAD AT DECISION MAKING!!!

I've run these numbers quite a few times, trust me. I didn't just do the first thing that popped into my head. If I was looking for brainstorming advice, I promise I would've asked. Sorry to seem so uptight, but if you look at what I started asking, and how I have to defend my thread subject from this onslaught of suggestions, I think you'd feel the same way.

edit: despite his initial comments, cerial's suggestion was helpful. I am looking into truck freight shipping, so anyone knows who may want to jump on me about it can take a rest. :teehee:
 
#58 ·
I used to tow a 2000lb boat with my lesabre, 10 miles one way to a lake 2 days a week minimum. Did it for a couple years without issue.

I got 20mpg towing that bitch from Saginaw to the up.

My coworker hauls a 4x8 trailer with a rzr on it to the U.P. every month with his 4cyl ranger. I rode with him once, holds 60mph but its angry.


How in the fuck are you justifying buying a sack-o-shit just to go get parts.
 
#60 ·
:teehee:

have you read any of my plans yet?? If it was JUST parts, I'd get them shipped. The items are fairly large. it wont be a piece of junk, sorry to disappoint everyone.

You probably should read how this thread started. The majority of the last 2 pages have had NOTHING to do with what I originally asked about. :thumb:
 
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