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F-250 Super Duty tow rig upgrades and maintance build

16K views 113 replies 26 participants last post by  Skooter_Built 
#1 · (Edited)
I've owned my 02 Super Duty since July 08 and have decided that this truck is too good to let go of, so im putting down the money and time I've been lacking on it to bring it back to show room new and give it a few upgrades at the same time :) plan's will include exterior body clean up and paint work, drive train work and interior improvements

*Current specs*
02 F-250 crew cab lariat short bed 7.3 auto 4x4 with 132k miles. Came fully loaded from the factory. I've installed a leveling kit up front (came with air bags in the rear), Tony Wildman 6 position chip, Afe stage 2 intake, 4" Turbo back exhaust, 05 conversion headlights and cut down grill, warn hubs, spray on bed liner and a goose neck hitch.

*Stage 1 work that's underway*
new drilled/slotted rotors front and rear with ceramic pads, xfr ball joints, tie rod and drag link, 4 new shocks (belsteins or ranchos), new 17" aluminum wheels with 315/70 Good year duratrac tires, 08 tow mirror with heat and lights, 05-07 front bumper with the Harley grill, pocket style fender flares, 05 lower dash w/ upfitter switches, 6.0 intercooler and trans cooler, all fluids/filters flushed and replaced then a full interior and exterior detail.

*stage 2*
Ship it off for paint and body work. By luck I have no major rust issues on the cab, bed or doors just surface rust. So I will have that repaired along with a few dents. I want nothing fancy, just other then to make it look factory again.

*stage 3*
This will happen come winter or spring but I will have the audio system improved with new speakers and a sub amp combo, new drivers seat bottom leather and a newer rear flip and tumble rear leather bench. Under the hood ill get an adrenaline hpop and regulated fuel setup for a little more power and some tranny valve body upgrades

In total should run a couple thousand for all this; minus paint, wheels & tires, whatnot... but its better it save my truck now then to have the payments of a newer truck.



My truck from last year, doesn't have the 20's installed right now
 
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#2 · (Edited)
my 2002 is a v10 gasser. f250 super cab, short bed, lariat, 4x4.
its one of the best vehicles i have ever owned.

at 40k-4 tires (305/70/16 toyo open countrys)
at 60k-front pads and rotors
at 75k changed rear gear lube and friction modifier(it was chattering a little)
at 90k 4 nice used rims and 4 new kelly safari trex (285/75/16)
at 100k i did- ball joints (they had a little slop would have been fine for a while)
wheel bearings (the left side was making a little noise, right was fine. replaced both)
changed all the fluids, except rear axle and radiator.
at 110k did rear pads and rotors

new springs and 1" leveling kit going on soon.

my truck was way over gvw with the truck camper and jeep in tow.
it has performed very well. it hauled 17k without any issue.
it has never not started, or need a tow.
it was my first ford truck. got a sweet deal on it.

1" leveling kit going on soon.
 
#12 · (Edited)
The motor work isn't what your expecting as its not for performance but reliability. The adrenaline high pressure oil pump and a regulated fuel setup will help balance out the oil and fuel to the injectors ensuring they pump at a balanced rate. The 6.0 innercooler helps lower egt. All that might get me 25 extra HP then I have now but keeps the engine happier and running reliable.

Plus trying to pump more power into my 7.3 only can make it weaker as powder metal cast rods get dangerious over 400 hp. I don't wanna install forged rods or do more turbo upgrades then a wicked turbo wheel.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Doing good just like your boat :sonicjay:

Been growing cobb webs for the last month or so. My add and short attention span has kicked in so time to fix my only running DD before it strands me

As for the 205 support im still deciding where the support is gonna go Scott. Either off the pto cover or the rear output, I ran outta light last night
 
#20 ·
That bad huh, its worth a try I guess. Compaired to 4 stock replacement rotors and pads I only spent 35 bucks more.

What are ya doing with your old intercooler stuff :naughty:?
Will be for sale soon.
 
#32 ·
full float, or semi float reduce the surface stresses when flexing under load as wells as eliminating warp...which help stop if not eliminate the cracking issues...you want to see a nice brake rotor failure, you should see a carbon fiber rotor let go when it's ready! impressive!
 
#34 ·
That's because carbon fiber isn't plastic enough to deform - so when it lets go - KAPOW! I've seen a couple CF bikes fail in crashes and it sounds similar to a rifle being fired. :teehee:

Anyway, I'm NOT disagreeing with you, Baby, just saying the rotors Andy is going to buy are dangerous. OEM companies put their parts through a shitton of durability development and testing. How much you think those drilled and slotted rotors have for the superduty? The last thing I would want on my towrig would be aftermarket "performance" rotors. Just sayin...
 
#40 ·
Now that the labor day "brake" is over im starting to wait for brown Santa to show. I should have all the steering components today, so I will start there and progress onward. I ordered my fender flares from a company called prestige, they make a bushwhacker knock off "bolt on" style for $290 versus $450 plus for the real one's. A slew of other parts will be arriving later on this week, like mirrors, inter cooler boots, tranny cooler fittings and other crap. Im still figuring out an 05-07 front bumper as good used ones are hard to find and aftermarket repop's range from $600-750 so I might have to wait a little bit.

2 things are left undecided, one major and one minor. Minor was the wheels, going with a set of raceline renegade's
as they are a good looking wheel for cheap, $120 for polished and $175 for chrome, ill probably go chrome as they will clean up easier then unsealed polished. I thought about a set of xd diesel wheels
for a minute but didn't like their cost, around $1000 and I don't fit in the flat bill/monster energy crowd bro!

The paint is the major issue as I don't know if I want to keep it all white or Have the lower half painted a dark grey with a mix of bed liner on certain areas to prevent stone chips.
 
#47 ·
Sure have! Received a few parts in yesterday. The new mirrors give a much larger field of view compaired to the original ones and I also received the conversation inner cooler boots for the 6.0 inner cooler. Im going to start work on everything next week.
 
#52 ·
Besides all the :blah: :blah: bullshit I just made another addition. After an extensive search I was able to find a good front bumper assembly. Work will begin next week.
 
#55 ·
I am a believer in drilled/slotted rotors. I had them on my Mustang and my Tahoe. They are currently on my dad's Yukon and his Impala, both used to eat pads and rotors terribly, not now. I will be installing them on my expedition in the next month or so.

I have tried anything from the cheap $12 autozone type to the "high quality" carquest, napa, oe equipment rotors, even a few sets of cryogenic rotors. I have had the best performance and longevity with drilled and/or slotted rotors.

I am with skooterbuilt on this one.
 
#57 ·
Sorry been busy. I installed the 6.0 inter cooler, it did knock down my egt about 100 degrees. Next to install Is the 203° thermostat and billet housing, the new mirrors, brakes and rebuild the front end as it severely needs it. I bought tires off here, hopefully I can pick them up this weekend.
 
#58 · (Edited)
Ahhh sooo ... updates. I finally picked up an 05-07 front bumper. I got it complete with all the brackets, fog lights, valances for $250. The chrome bar has a few dents so ill probably buy a new one along with a Harley style grill. Today I was ready to buy the new wheels and tires but dura trac 315/70/R17's are on nation wide back order so I got 2 choices now.

Option 1: reuse factory wheels and have them repolished or powder coated black or white and then buy new 315/70/R16's

Option 2: I clean up my chrome 20's and put 305/55 dura trac's on them. Since the 20's I already have arnt perfect to start with if they look ugly after winter I could then get them powder coated black or white or recromed.

Either option will still be cheaper then buying both new wheels and tires
 
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