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1976 Jeep CJ5 Resto/Mod

21K views 76 replies 30 participants last post by  Hackfabrication 
#1 · (Edited)
Posted up a couple pics in the introduction section, here's some more. Project started as the classic $500 Jeep I towed home in December 1996:


I scrapped the body, and picked up a 'new' OEM steel tub from Willys-Overland in Toledo. This was welded up from NOS stampings. The fenders, dash, and windshield frame are all aftermarket (Taiwan) stampings. The grill is a genuine Jeep (Chrysler) item. Hood is the only remaining body part from the original Jeep. The corners and rockers are from 'off your rocker'.

I've also recently added highback seats and a tilt column (no pics of that yet):


I had the stock frame boxed and a six-point roll cage built (Performance Off-Road in Alexandria, KY) along with rock sliders, although I don't have a pic of the tub with the cage installed.

The axles are stock narrow track Dana 30 / AMC 20. I converted the front to disc brakes using parts off an 84 CJ. The rear has Moser 1pc axles and 11" drums. Both have been regeared to 4.56 and have ARB lockers with stainless steel lines. They're hung on a BDS 2.5" SUA lift with ConFer 3/4" shackles. It's riding on a set of 32x11.50x15 TSL/SX tires, which are a disappointing 30.5" tall. Gonna go to a 34x9.50x15 TSL for replacements. Or go metric with 16" wheels.

Using the M.O.R.E. mounts caused some 'issues' with the stock skidplate/crossmember. I ended up ordering one from Throttle Down Kustoms and having to custom machine a new stabilzer stud because the Energy Suspension trans mount is 'taller' than a stock mount:




It also placed the clutch fork arm real close to where the combination valve was supposed to mount:


I ended up relocating it to get better clearance:


Also had to 'cut the trans opening a bit':


All the brake lines are stainless steel that I purchased from Inline Tube (along with the combo valve). I'm debating whether to go vacuum or hydoboost. Money is naturally a factor.

The motor is a Ford Racing GT40 5.0L Crate Engine. One of my 'better' purchases off eBay. It came with the GT40 tubular manifold, B cam, 65mm TB, 24# injectors (and a whole lot of other Mustang stuff that got sold). I added the Ford Racing F-150 headers (had them Jet-Hot coated), and the Saginaw PS pump conversion was done with a bracket from Wild Horses and a Ford Racing AC eliminator kit. I removed the smog pump and smoothed off the bracket. The alternator is a 160amp unit from RJM Injection Technology as is the computer harness. I'm running a Goodyear 74.75" serp belt. The starter is a mini PMGR I picked up locally:






I'm hiding the ECM (A9L) behind the dash above the heater box (which was totally rebuilt and upgraded to a 3spd fan):


The VSS is mounted on the firewall and connected with two cables from Lokar. You can also see how I Hack Fab'd the stock Mustang throttle cable:


I hid the Inertia Switch inside the Tuffy Glovebox:


The transmission is a Ford T18 that I picked up (literally off the ground at Stevenson's in Highland-Damn I miss that place!) for $35. It was rebuilt, the stock CJ T18 shifter adapted to it, and I used the Jeep T18b mainshaft along with an adapter from Advance to mate it to the rebuilt, TeraLow'd, and twinstik'd Dana 20:


The clutch is a LuK 11" pro gold. I Hack Fab'd up a clutch linkage bracket for the z-bar which allows me to use the stock Jeep CJ mechanical clutch:


Here's how I worked the return spring issue:


The custom intank fuel pump for my TrailQuest 23gal tank (not a 'bolt on' by any means) was Hack Fab'd from a stock Jeep CJ pickup/sender and a stock Mustang unit (another eBay item with a 255lph pump):


I was going to use stainless hard lines along the frame, but they proved too difficult to bend. So I went with stainless braided line from Russell and an Aeromotive inline filter:




Lot's more to do.......
 
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#10 ·
Dealing with the mess:


I purchased the aftermarket replacement speedometer. What a pos. Sent it right back. Ended up finding a used OEM and taking the guts out of my 76's and putting them in the used case. My original was rusted through in one spot, and the fuel/temp gauges were shot. This worked out much better. Still looking for 'the right' oil pressure and voltmeter. The aftermarket ones are also crap...Sent those back too. Will probably use either Autometer or SW. Leaning toward SW as they were who Jeep used as a supplier. Had I to do this again...I would have went total custom dash. I just don't want to change directions now.

Finally, Finally got the intermittent wiper conversion to work. Turned out it was a bad (brand new, aftermarket, OMIX) 4 wire motor. I sent that back and although I've got a real nice used original....I want what I paid for. Or my money back.
 
#16 ·
very nice and I don't see any hack fab work on any of your modifications. Very nice good to see a Ford motor in a Jeep once in awhile
Thanks. My phantom company motto is: 'In the end...It's all Hack.' Anytime you make something work that wasn't originally designed to work in that particular application...It's Hack. Most of my 'stuff' is either factory crap that has been ground, machined, bent, welded, or re-wired to work in this particular application. I know that I'm not alone in this. We all do it. It's just in the appearance of the 'final product' that you separate the Ghetto Job from the Hack Job. There's no reason to make things look crappy when you can buy shrink tube, wire ties, and spray paint.

The Ford 5.0L engine was a recommend from a guy who runs a shop in KY. I got to thinking about it, and figured...What the heck. There are a lot of Chevy engines in Jeeps. Not too many (but the number is growing) Fords. And I've determined that I can buy SBF engines any day, every day. Where as it getting harder and harder to locate a decent SBC for decent price. I know, I'm searching for a 350 for my 88 R30 flatbed.

Going with the Blue Oval also makes everything on my Jeep from the fan back to the Tcase Ford. All relatively easy stuff to locate 'in a pinch'. And the Ford EEC-IV system is one of the simplest/easiest systems to 'Hack' into a vehicle. You can make the same argument for a 350/SM465 type swap. But like I said, they are getting tough to locate at a decent price. KISS is what I'm trying to do. I lost a whole lot of gray cells in the 70's, lost the rest after a 30 year career with the Federal Government.

yea you live down the street just saw your plate on your blazer...
Yeah, thats me. (Also have similar plates on my Harley and 88 Chevy flatbed) Been here since April 1984. Should've moved in 1986, didn't...Now I'm stuck here. Oh well, ya gotta live somewhere....Right? And can ya believe the prices of land in western Wayne county? Or Washtenaw county. For the $9000 an acre the sellers want, I can purchase a big chunk of TN.

Might have a kegger/sandblast party soon....
 
#19 ·
Thanks! Obviously, with the weather being crap, I'm not out in the garage doing much work on it. I'll keep updating the thread until I get the biotch on the street/trail. My dream was always to take it across the Rubicon...Heck the way things are going....That'll just be another closed piece of real estate by the time I'm finished.

Like I've posted, and anyone that's ever been envolved with a major project ( I keep waiting for the 'Overhaulin' crew to steal it), I get depressed, pissed, and just out of ideas...That's when I 'walk away from it'. Doing things in any of the three previous states is really expensive.

My goal for the end of the year is to get the exhaust bent, and the friggin motor fired. I'll finish up the wiring...Then take it all apart for body work and paint next spring/summer.....

Well...That's the plan anyway.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Some Progress...

I managed to get the front fenders/grill installed before I took the header off my son's 400EX at SLSD on 9/15.


Sorta set back the 'plan' to haul it over to the exhaust shop by the end of the September. Looks like I might get it over there in another week or two.

I did manage some work this past week (broken collarbone/ribs and all). Got the Coil bracket Hack Fab'd using a stock Mustang one:



I cut off one of the 'legs' and bent it into a 'L', then welded it to the original. It made a quick trip through the blast cabinet and a coat of POR-15 to seal it up.

The MAF posed a different problem as I wanted to use the stock Mustang tubing. I had an aftermarket MAF bracket that was made out of 1/16" (12ga?) steel that I cut and massaged with a BFH to fit the contour of the inner fender. When I got the height correct, I clamped it and welded it back together. It's made the trip through the blaster, but my dang shoulder hurts too much to take it apart again tonight. Tomorrow it'll get a coat of POR-15.




I've got to design a shield for the K&N filter so the fan doesn't cause problems. Should be a simple thing to do with some stainless or aluminum sheet to shield the motor side of the filter.
 
#21 · (Edited)
A bit more work

I'm still 'crippled' with the use of 1.5 hands, but I managed to work on the RJM headlight harness yesterday:


Only problem is that it was designed to plug into an early Bronco or other Ford product by using the existing headlamp connectors. The stock Jeep headlight plugs won't fit. I stripped the old headlight plugs out of the existing harness, and I've got a set of Ford plugs and connectors on the way. The white and the gray/blk wires are the existing Jeep headlight wires. I'll just crimp one onto the existing Jeep wiring, and then it should work fine.


I'm going to run a set of battery cables over to the driver's side inner fender. I'll use a couple stud mounts for power distribution. That way I can wire in additional lighting relays and a winch without cluttering up the passenger side fender area. There's not going to be much room left on that side once I get the ARB compressor mounted and wired/plumbed:


Speaking of ARB...Those guys are great at ARB-USA. Since it's been almost ten years since I had the lockers installed, and I purchased the compressor last year...The original switches for the lockers were the old style push buttons, and wouldn't plug into the supplied wiring harness for the newer compressor:


I Called ARB on Monday, they sent me two new rocker style ones...Gratis....Got them US mail on Thursday.


Sweet customer service!
 
#22 ·
ARB Compressor Installation

Got outside for a few hours and after debating the various options decided to just bolt the damn compressor to the inner fender. Here's what she looks like:




I ended up calling ARB USA tech support again because the directions weren't specific as to which way to put the solenoid on. They're stamped with a '1' and '2' each side. The '1' goes toward the compressor. In the second pic you can make out the '1' on the back side of each solenoid.

The compressor does vibrate the fender a bit when it's running, I might get a piece of 1/4" rubber to isolate the metal base from the inner fender. Haven't tried the actual lockers yet, perhaps tomorrow I put the jack under the axles and give it a shot of air...
 
#25 ·
you need an updated avatar!
Thanks! No new avatar until this biotch gets a license plate and is on the street....

I worked the ARB harness into the tub and finished up the RJM alternator charging kit:


And no...They aren't going to stay looped over the column. Got to Hack Fab up a switch plate.





I'm getting the wiring organized right now. I'm going to need to fabricate up a couple battery cables as the stuff I got from Murray's isn't gonna cut it.

I got my son to come over and we put the old hood back on:




Just a temporary situation until I can pick up a good used one. It'll help protect things when I'm towing it to the exhaust shop and the driveshaft shop.
 
#26 ·
Couple new developments:

Check out the custom side terminal studs my son machined for me:


The ones that were available on the aftermarket were just a bit too short. I'll be hooking up the ARB, Fuse Panel (check the Maxi fuse attached to the battery box in place of the original fusible link), and ECM power wires to them.

Also check out the way overkill 2/0 cables and how I ran power to the other side of the CJ:






I attached the headlight brightener harness to the terminal studs and I'll also use it for the winch and any additional auxiliary lighting relays.

The really 'sick' part is that the pics don't show the 'Hack Fabrication' lettering that was printed on the cables by the company I purchased them from.

Just a bit of 'Hack Humor'....

I also repaired the horn button on my sport steering wheel...Ya'll know the plastic lens that gets cracked/broken? Well I located a company in NY that sells watch crystals in various sizes, they aren't the fit of the original, but with a bit of Pliobond adhesive and some Permatex black....Just like new:



Next stop...Exhaust shop.
 
#27 ·
Exhaust and Some 'Bling'

Project has hit another wall. I did manage to get it tow'd over to Keith's Muffler for the exhaust system:










It's 2.5" head pipes into a 3" pipe, running through a 3" Turbo muffler. Then out the back with a 3" tailpipe. Only complaint was the location of the O2 sensor on the driver's side. It's a bit low. I'll probably get it re-done when I pull the body next year for paint. Otherwise, good job and decent price for a 'custom' exhaust fab.

Added a bit of 'bling' to the driver's side plug wires:


I couldn't get the passenger side to work because the MSD wires I got were a few inches too short. The 'critical' side was the d/s because the wires were laying on the headers. I'll fix the p/s later...

Waiting for the custom 'Extreme' radiator to arrive via FedEx this Friday. Also I've decided to go with the hydroboost brake system. Just need to have Van at vanco give me a call...He was having a pre-Christmas sale with $100 off. Which will help me also get the dang power steering plumbed, as his kits include all the hoses and fittings for the install.

I haven't gotten the courage up to put gasoline in the tank and pressure test the fuel system. I was really hoping that the weather would get into the 40's so I could roll the heep out into the driveway and do it. I don't want to 'light up' my house for the holidays...At least that way.
 
#31 ·
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