After last summer's fatal trip where my motor mounts ripped apart wrecking havoc on my poor jeep, the thing has sat ever since. Well I'm finally settled enough in the new house to get back at it. Figured I'd post some pics since, well... who doesn't like pics...
Before:
Tear down
Game plan is redoing all electrical between batt, alt, starter, junction lug, and winch. Ditching the mechanical fan and going taurus elec. Redoing motor/tranny mounts and new crossmember for flat belly. And finally, adding some much needed gauges and odds/ends along the way.
Thermal switch for elec fan prolly going in block but may go in rad as last resort.
Not a pic of mine, but just like it solenoid for the taurus fan to handle the 80 amps at startup.
Just picked this up the other day. Will get me by for a few years until nicer MIG time. Just gotta wire in a 220 to the garage.
All I can say is hooray for discounts! Sparks gonna be slangin soon...
I had just heard the plastic lines get brittle and the last thing I need is an 1/8th inch oil leak :teehee: So I figured the copper was a better choice. Now I'm curious...
New 160 amp alt ($135) from http://www.motorcityreman.com/ in. Also got a slightly shorter serpentine belt from NAPA since my old alt had no more adjustment...
My old water temp sender fell apart taking it out. I'd say it also got a wee bit hot... The new one is bigger so I may have to plug this hole and find a different spot to mount.
I cut off the remanents of where we had at one time chained my motor down the first time the MMs failed :teehee:
Then it was on to cutting. Yes these are OSHA approved safety ski goggles...
I'm not gonna have any floor left by the time I'm done :d:
Bastard failed mounts
All gone now
Gonna reuse these for the new ones though since they're already perfect size.
Or maybe just leave it running these new fancy ratchet strap motor mounts :woot:
Starting to mock up and figure how I want to do my crossmember and tranny mounts.
The problem I'm gonna run into is clearance for my still new in box front DS. It'll prolly hit the starter as is being that it's 3" .250 wall DOM. I'm thinking about clocking the motor a few degrees so that the pass side is a bit higher than driver. Then cocking the drive train w/in the frame rails so that the motor sits slightly closure to driver and the tcase sits slightly closer to passenger. That may just give me enough clearance for the DS while keeping the drivetrain as low as possible and have a completely flat belly.
Got these bushings that fit in 1.75 .120 wall for both motor and tranny to keep the mounts the same. I'll use that .125 wall for the MM...
And most likely this square stock will make up at least part of the tranny mounts and crossmember.
Can't wait til next weekend when I tear into the electrical :rock:
I cracked off a copper fuel sender line at the filter adapter on my Diesel this weekend. Good thing I had my needle valve turned down to nothing . . .
I'm thinking that I'm going to install a needle valve on the Oil sender on my jeep just in case too . . . it still measures pressure the same, but will only flow a tiny amount. You'll see the pressure drop and be able to shut the engine off without spraying oil everywhere. Then you'll be able to just shut off the needle valve and keep running.
Looks good though . . . I'm wishing I had my Jeep here with me now . . .
I wish I knew you were looking for a radiator. I have one from when i had the 4.2 in my 88. 3 row in excellent shape. Would of let go cheap
I would go with the copper lines. I had the poly and one night while driving I was wondering why the gas pedal was slippery... look down and see oil being pissed onto my leg.
There are two different sizes for the water temp sender, I went and got one from the auto parts store and could not get it to fit. Then I broke it trying to get it in.
Went to other parts store and they had the right one. Same brand, same part number but the two were different. One was a little bigger around and the bigger socket would not clear the valve cover.
Started soldering and heat shrinking my cables. This is a 2' section of 4ga stereo cable from alt to starter. Starter to junction, and battery to junction will both be 2/0ga, and my grounds will all be 1/0ga.
1/0 stereo grade for a ground (my batt grounds to the floor inside since it's in between the seats, and then through a bolt to this which then grounds to the frame)
Yay for blowtorch soldering
Then I got to work making a bracket for my inline fuse to the fan solenoid
Figured I'd also have to make a bracket for the solenoid until I turned this lil fawker over and found the holes lined up almost perfect
This will just tuck inside the passenger frame rail just above the axle and should be relatively safe
Back to wiring (all 8ga stereo grade for the taurus fan wiring)
Then I started looking around for smaller 20A inline fuse to use as a jumper on the solenoid (and since I didn't get to go to NAPA today) decided to see if there was one I could steal from the truck. Thats when I found this
Something went nuts there and wrecked havoc on that lil guy. I'm kinda wondering if that might be a connection for my exhaust brake which would explain the troubles it had when we were driving cross country. Anyways, I put on new connecters.
Also butt spliced my winch power cable back together with some 2ga copper butt splice dealy where it had been severed. Ain't pretty but should do the trick.
Next up is fitting this guy. I know it's a taurus fan (got for free from my dad), but I'm not sure if it's the 3.8L model everyone likes...? Either way, I'ma run it. If it turns out to be a lesser fan, I'll already have the wiring in place to get the "right" taurus fan.
A wise man once told me, "Ya just gotta keep at it and at least do something every day" :beer:
Should I also be crimping the ends that I'm soldering?
I've never seen someone solder ends and ALSO crimp them, but someone mentioned that he'd seen winch power cable ends melt solder and pull out under heavy load...
I've never seen someone solder ends and ALSO crimp them, but someone mentioned that he'd seen winch power cable ends melt solder and pull out under heavy load...
The copper line cracks as well... just takes longer than the poly as long as you have it coiled a few places.
I like to run the mechanical oil pressure gauges because they are full sweep, fast, and accurate. Sometimes I only have a quick second to glance down, and for me it's easier to see where I am with a full sweep gauge.
Did a quick side project today and got a 220v outlet ran from garage to panel for my welder. This is my first attempt at house wiring so...
I drilled a hole from the basement where the panel is but couldn't go all the way through so I had to do some searching.
Then made this
Into this
I wanted to keep the outlet movable so that I could take it to wherever I needed to weld. Basically wanted the welder to be able to cover the entire garage and into the driveway if need be.
Anywho, this seemed like a good spot
For this
Hooray for me making it through without getting electrocuted!!
Although my outlet only needed two hots and a ground, it was cheaper to buy the wire that included a neutral. So I just taped it off at both ends and it's there if I ever change the outlet for a newer welder that may need such a thing.
:sonicjay: Naw, it's left over from a stereo I had in a truck I had way back. I like the fine strand cable more than standard battery cable because it transfers electricity so much better. Later this week my order of 2/0 fine strand welding lead cable is coming in which I'll run from battery to junction lug and lug to starter. Shit's gonna be burl :woot:
That's a damn good question. When I decided to go propane, for ease I just called up Cary at gotpropane.com and had him send me his all inclusive kit for a 258.
Alright, so I went back and crimped all my soldered ends. And by crimp, I mean hammered flat cause that's all I had to use :teehee:
Then I got to thinking how I really didn't like this splice in the pos winch cable
Well, I didn't have any 2ga sitting around to rewire it, but I did have some 1/0 fine thread left over...
So off comes the winch access panel dealy
Yeah... Just go ahead and ignore the ugly heat wrap. I was trying to use up an odd scrap and wasn't too worried since this is in the winch not exposed to elements. :fish:
A little drilling/filing to make the hole in the side of the case bigger
Much mo betta :beerbang:
Then I threw in a kill switch for my elec fan in case any of you fawkers entice me to drive into deep water or mud :teehee:
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
4.2M posts
30.9K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Great Lakes 4X4 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, trails, tires, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!