Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner

My Yj; 6.0 V8, 700R4, D44, D60, H1's, 37's and OBA

117K views 451 replies 65 participants last post by  jeepfreak81 
#1 · (Edited)
Current Picture, Look through thread for buildup:

6.0 updates start here

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=665&page=13

Stats and info: (cut and pasted from another site i have the info posted on)

Vehicle year: 1994 (base vehicle),1991,1998,1985, 1984, 1975, 2001 :D

Year purchased: 1999

Engine and engine mods: 2001 Chevy lq4 6.0 77k miles [strike]355 Chevrolet, Mild cam Edelbrock intake and carb, De-emissioned, dual Exaust, [/strike]

Drivetrain and drivetrain mods: Built 700r4 with manual overrides, Np231C

Axles, gearing, and mods: HP D44 front USA Alloy shafts, Spicer joints Spartan Locker/D60 rear Ford limited Slip, 4.88 gears

Tires & wheels: H1 Double Bead Locks, 37x12.5 Cut BFG Baja (for now), [strike]37x12.5 Goodyear Surplus tires[/strike]

Lift and other suspension mods: BDS 2" SOA suspension and Shocks, removed Swaybar and Trackbars, modified teraflex traction bar

Exterior mods: Custom Rear bumper built by Nick_sg and I, Front bumper built by me with winch mount and TX2 12,000lb 2 speed winch, Foglamps, rock rails with side step, functional ram air scoops for venting excess heat.

Recovery and safety equipment: Koz Sport Cage, 12,000lb TX2 winch, 8klb Warn rear winch, Hi-lift jack, Strap, Tree saver, and a fire extinguisher, assortment of tools and a rag

Skid plating: Stock Skid's for now

Other mods: YORK OBA, (currently disabled)

Best modification: V8 and the 4 wheel discs and tranny by Killer "b"

Worst modification: Rear Tube bumper, bent too easy, the hitch flexes under load, feels like it would come off-- oh wait it did

Primary trails or events: Mounds, Big Rapids, and Silver lake, have done some Whitehall and would like to hit Grayling and Mio (nothing around my house other then my field), did west branch and St. Helen as well

Club/Organization affiliations: GLFWDA, web-boards and friends

Very near future mods: Tons









and here is my just completed install of the New improved 355. .030 over, mild cam























and yes I know I need to replace my gooseneck gasket... i see it belched anti freeze on the intake it wasnt leaking 3 days ago... but i never changed that seal when the engine was apart as i didnt take off the gooseneck
 
See less See more
15
#4 · (Edited)
More updated pics....

added a Taurus fan... this required the moving forward of the radiator, and moving the tranny cooler to the front, I used to have a pusher fan...


On High this fan will suck a cat through the radiator... start up draw is in the vicinity of 60 amps (starting right into high speed) though so it required a heavy duty 75 amp relay... I have that protected with a 60 AMP fuse... I am hoping I wont be blowing that, the low speed is auto controlled with a manual override for high speed. I figure I can hold the start up amps down if I only flip on the move from low to high. All lower pics are prior to looming.










on the left is the 3 way in cab switch, on the right is the 75 AMP Bosch relay from a Freightliner

The relays mounted (the relay on the right is a 50 amp temperature controlled relay for low speed)


and while Adam 99grandTJ was wiring it I got busy with a spray can... my jeep wants to be a Renegade II





Just need to add the grates into the Snout holes... :rock:
 
#11 ·
get it wired, and get the belt and it is useable... though I dont have it plumbed to the front and back yet, just to the top of the tank with a QD

I also need to paint it yet

I should have got the separate oiler/filter ... I need the filter directly after the york to catch the oil before the tank... and The oiler needs to be after the tank.

I need to see if I can separate my set, by the book it looks like I can, I just don't know how I would mount them.



 
#15 · (Edited)
I ran it up to 125PSI working load last night, and ran an impact with NO trouble what-so-ever we re-plumbed some things as I needed to move the location of my oiler in the mix, added a check valve and a second filter. I need to change out some clamps though... the ones I bought at Harbor freight are cheap crap and won't tighten enough I blew 2 lines right off. here is the final deal (minus painting) and I need to run the electrical into the in cab toggle switch yet. I also need to get the intake filter/muffler on -- though it isn't loud at all








also put in my new steering wheel last night... a little ricer like but i REALLY like it...



 
#18 ·
It works fine, I have a leak in the hose that leads from the compressor to the tank though, it is a result of using a PVC air hose intended for roofing nailers (the blue hose in the pics)-- I never knew the differences in air hose before, and it could not handle the high temps of the air coming out of this compressor. You cannot use a sub-par line here. Haven't been out on the trail to use it though, but I used it to change a motorhome tire with the impact, and I used the air ratchet to separate a tranny and t-case I gave to Renegade II, worked very well.
 
#23 ·
So I have this friend that keeps pushing me to go bigger and tear my shit apart all the time when I don't have a garage. It helps that he had parts he felt I needed :tonka:

Plan as of right now is SOA on the BDS 2" springs, using a 78 F250 front D44 and rear D60 with 37-38" tires. H1 beadlocks. For as often as I drive it, probably get a spool or lincoln locker.





 
#26 ·
I HATE MUD.... EVEN MORE I HATE THE RUSTBELT

Cleaning it revealed a lot more crap I have to fix.... I said screw it I am not putting it back together like this... the 3/4 ton axles are going in it... in addition to the following pics the rear axle brakes are shot, and the front knuckle u-joints are bad again. It would cost me as much in parts as to throw the axles in the shed under it :roll:

Looks like a theft recovery out there R)












 
#27 ·
Holy memories Batman! I welded large patch panels in those exact same 2 spots (drivers side floorboard and drivers side of the tub at the rear of the fender flare). Then I had to take a shim out of my door striker to get the door to latch. That was about 2 years ago. Last year I started cutting and welding patches into the passenger side. And had to take a shim out of that striker too. And then I prepped and primed and undercoated the frame and bottom. Last month I did a complete rear brake job...brake lines, parking brake cables, wheel cylinders, shoes, drums...sigh. Hoping to get a few more years of wheeling out of it. I understand your pain. Good luck on your project. I am looking forward to more pictures as you fix it up. Hopefully we'll get the chance to meet again.
 
Top