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Eastwood HotCoat Powdercoating session today

27K views 122 replies 25 participants last post by  amundaza 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

Got two of the 15x8 widetrack rims powdercoated today, for the Guatemalan GW build we're doing. Here are pics from today's fun in the garage.

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8


















































 
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#3 ·
Thanks,
Here's what they used to look like!

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8



 
#5 ·
Thanks, it's always great seeing stuff turn out nice.

Yeah, it wouldn't be prudent for your hubby to use the kitchen oven :fish:

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8
 
#6 ·
those did turn out nice. any idea how many mills are on the finished rim? and did the kit come with enough powder for 4 rims?

good job on the rims!

and i am glad i got mine done before i saw this or i would be buying an oven. hey, wait. there are alot of things i could powder coat. :teehee:
 
#8 ·
No idea on the final coating thickness. I apply the powder as thick as I can get it before baking. If you get it too thick, it will chunk off if there is not enough of a static bond between the metal (-) and powder (+).

If you are going to do the rims, I would suggest getting about 2-lbs of powder, just to be safe. I bought 5-lbs of Mirror Black, since I will be doing more rims after these are done.

You can pick up a used electric oven on Craigslist ... I got mine for $20.

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8
 
#9 ·
do you have to bake old rims that were factory poweder coated before you can sand blast them and re coat them? i have 94 chevy steel rims that are getting rusty. a sand blasting shop told me the 94s were poweder coated and would need to burn the old poweder off to sandblast them
 
#17 ·
Powdercoating is a bugger to remove sometimes. If you bake them hot enough, the coating starts to degrade/bubble/bake off and then you can sand blast them easier.

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8
 
#15 ·
I shot them with a 44-magnum ... they're fine ... I'm not, though. :teehee:

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8
 
#14 ·
I started to blast them in my Harbor Freight cabinet, but that was taking more time than I wanted to spend. So, I spent the $12/rim to get them done at PB Pollock's in Fraser, MI. They do a great job and their prices are great, too. Some places wanted $25-$30 per rim, which is rediculous.

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8
 
#19 ·
I powder the back side of the rim first and bake it. Then I flip it over and powder the face of the rim and bake it. You end up with a small smudge in the coating on the back side, where it rests on the rack. Since it's the back side, the smudge isn't that much of an asthetic issue.

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8
 
#20 ·
Aluminum GW Rim Center caps - Mirror Chrome

Guys,

Did up one of the aluminum center caps for the GW aluminum rims. See the before shot vs. after shot. Before shot received a quick blast in the blasting cabinet to clean them up and rough them up for powder. After shot looks purdy ...

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8






 
#21 ·
Tonight, I sprayed SILVER VEIN on the 3 good FSJ Wide Track center caps that I have. These will be going on the WT rims I did up in MIRROR BLACK and will end up on my buddys Grand Wagoneer heading for Guatemala soon.

Here's how they turned out.

Sincerely,
Greg Taylor
Rochester Hills, MI
1989 Grand Wagoneer "Terminator 2"
330" AMC stroker V8








 
#22 ·
Today's powdercoating fun ....

Hey guys,
Been a while since I posted on this threaad. I did some more powdercoating today. A longtime friend in our local AMC club asked me to powdercoat some Plymouth Duster, Cuda and a Javelin plasma cut designs. I bead-blasted them first. The Duster was done in Smoke Chrome and the Cuda in Mirror Chrome ... the Javelin still needs some clean-up work from the plasma cutter edges.

I blasted the early 70's Full Size Jeep "V8" badges and shot them in Mirror Chrome. I may go back and add in the RWB sections with testors enamel, as suggested previously by a member on the IFJSA.org forums. Here are some pics.














 
#26 ·
Just check out the free section on Craigslist ... free ovens pop up there periodically. I got my Eastwood Hot Coat system on Ebay, used, for a good price. Thanks for the kudos. I'm currently working on powdercoating a HUGE bench vise for a buddy of mine. I'll post pics when it's done.
 
#27 ·
FIgured I'd chime in here on the Eastwood Hot Coat setup. My only setup difference is we have a digital lab oven that can bracket a temp +/- 1 degree.

I bought the same thing for a starter kit for work. Tired of paying $100 for a same day emergency paint job on prototypes.

For general use, works great. However, I already want different diffuser patterns for the nozzle and doing 3/8" plate it would be nice to have more voltage for wraparound too.

As far as prep work goes, I cut 20 different test strips of metal and marked numbers on them. Then I prepped them all different ways.

The highlights for prepping metal:

What doesn't work:
Anti-Spatter
Water droplets
60 grit or coarser sandpaper
Felt tip marker
Paint marker

What didn't make a noticable difference in appearance:
Sandblasting first
Just wiping off parts with a rag
Scotchbrite
oil and wipe off
wd-40 and wipe off
degreaser

Pre-heat to about 350 makes for a really nice thick coat, sticks and builds up. I haven't had luck rehitting an already cooked part yet.

Lucas
 
#28 ·
Hey Lucas,
Thanks for the feedback and input on what you have tried.

On Saturday, I got my first chance at re-hitting a coated part. I was coating a 50-lb bench vise for a buddy and hit one part of it with the WRONG COLOR ... DOH! I sprayed most of it in Silver Vein and accidentally did the arm in Smoke Chome.

Luckily, I have been reading on the Eastwood powdercoating forum about rehitting coated parts. The trick is to do it while they are still HOT. Spraying powder on the hot parts, causes it to flash melt. Then you just put it in the oven and back away.

I did this with the bench vise arm and it turned out great. I also did it with the handle (in Smoke Chrome for an accent), since the handle can not be removed out of the screw mechanism.

I'll post up more pics later.
 
#29 ·
BIG oven from a Fridge

Here are the beginning pics of and old fridge being converted into an oven. I am currently stripping the fridge down. Nice thing is that the OLDER refridgerators have fiberglass insulation instead of FOAM insulation, which comes out A LOT easier. Guys on the powdercoat forums were having to air chisel the foam out of the newer fridges they converted over.

This one will have TWO oven burners in it, and a fan most likely, to circulate the air for even heating.










 
#31 ·
AMC I6 4-bbl intake

Hey guys,

I picked up a super sweet Offy dual-port intake for the AMC inline sixes, today. It was supposedly new and very well could have been. Either way, I got it bead-blasted tonight and powdercoated in Mirror Chrome.



I also sprayed the powdercoat differently tonight. I pre-heated the parts first for about 18 minutes, then sprayed them with powder, which flash melts on the hot surface. Then baked them to cure the powder. I like how the finish turned out better on this, than on the last intake I did.



Here are the pics. I also included a pic showing part of the intake with a bead-blasted area, so you can see the before/after difference on the same part.
























 
#32 ·
Hey guys,
Just want to share this tidbit of information on converting a fridge/freezer into an powdercoating oven. I saw on some of the conversion threads that guys were using newer fridges/freezers with a styrofoam liner. The liner needed to be chiselled out ... which is very time consuming.

What I have discovered is that the OLDER ice boxes have the yellow fiberglass insulation in them, which is not adherred to the outer shell. They come apart rather quickly.

Here are pics of me gutting the freezer I picked up, while my intake manifold was pre-heating, then baking in the oven. I got this one gutted in about 35 minutes.

BTW, I now have 3 fridges & 1 freezer, which I'll be using to make ONE oven and ONE spray booth from.







 
#34 ·
More progress on the fridge conversion

Hey guys,
Got a little more done on the fridge conversion today. The magical Craigslist fairy decided to help out ... and with wave of his wand ... POOF! Here's where I'm at now ... :woot:





 
#35 ·
Roxul & exterior sheeting

Yesterday I picked up 3 bags of 3" Roxul mineral wool. This is the high-temp insulation that will line the walls of the oven.

Today, I was going to go pick up some steel sheeting for the outside, but the sheet metal company only had 20 gauge cold-rolled ... no thinner gauge galvanized. So, I called a couple of heating & cooling places this AM. One that's about 2 miles from my house had 3x8 sheets of 26 gauge galvanized in stock.

So I pay for 5 sheets of it and while we're loading it, I mention to the guy that I'll be cutting and bending it at home (by hand) ... he offers to do it all for me there. In about 20 minutes, we had the sheets cut and pre-bent and loaded in the van, since I had the oven dimensions with me. That saved me probably 10 hours of work at home!
 
#36 ·
Progress ...

Tonight, I went around with the MIG welder and welded all the drywall studs together, to make the framework more rigid (than just being pop-riveted together). I still want to add more supports to the floor framework, than the original oven builder did. The floor is still just too flimsy to handle any real weight (like an engine block or differential).

I also picked up some high-temp appliance 12-gauge wire from a local supplier.











 
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