Alright fine, I'll make a new build thread :finger: :sonicjay:
Bought a MandM offroad chassis from PJ, super good dude to deal with and super nice. HIGHLY recommend. http://mandmfab.com/id68.html
This is chassis #20
Its all Greek to me lol radius arms and leaf spring ftw :sonicjay: I was looking at other mandm buggies built similar and was gone just burn them on lol. Opinions are welcome.
do you mean upper and lower link seperation? I always like to have difference in the seperation, ususally I aim for 8-9" seperation on the axle and 6-7" seperation on the chassis.
edit- as far as triangulation in the links, I aim for atleast 30deg of triangulation. So for example, if your lowers are straight and parallel to each other, the uppers need to have 30deg triangulation in relation to the lowers. Or, your lowers can have a 10 deg difference to easch other (10 degrees non-parallel), then your uppers canhave a 20 deg difference to each other (combines for 30 deg).
Triangulation in the uppers and lowers as layed out. Again, I'm just doing the numbers, I'm no expert.
9.6 x 2=19.2 deg in the uppers, 8.4 x 2 = 16.8 deg in the lowers. So 36 deg of triangulation.
Erin, I layed mine out like you talked about and my roll steer got worse. On Johns above it's 24 at the frame and 25 at the axle so they're within an inch of "parallel" The roll axis goes from -.9 to -.5 if I bring the lower axle side in to 17 and make it 24 and 24 but the triangulation goes from 36deg down to 33 deg. Bones default was min 30 so they both qualify, I'm not sure what effect it would have with the lowers at 36" separation at the axle vs 34".
I don't know much more than the thread I read and a couple conversations with 95geo about doing mine. I'm just the guy putting stuff into excel. Hopefully more people will chime in and we can all learn something about it. :thumb:
I think the biggest difference is that you read it and comprehend and understand. In all honestly I don't learn shit from reading, I learn from hands on.
These are the boxes Erin is talking about. It can get a little weird because you're dealing with 3d locations for roll steer as well as the 2d "boxes" that Erin's talking about.
yes thats what i was talking about.thanks brandon. i was showed this a few years ago. if they are not close to the same the back tires will do the walk under or when dropping out, can move to one side or the other.
i have noticed that alot of the rear 4 links i have seen and the way i built mine,you can draw a box if you look at the rear lower mounts on the axle an the frame upper mounts.i screwed with mine a ton when i built it.im very happy with it.
look at this picture and you can see what i mean.
Do I read it right that you have 5" separation John? I started out with about 4" and had wheel hop on steep stuff. Raised the uppers to about 5 1/2" and it went away.
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