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deck staining ?????

2K views 25 replies 15 participants last post by  ron86toy 
#1 ·
Anybody here do this...or have done it????....need to get mine done before winter...rails in good shape and look like a touch up will do.

How much should I expect to pay vrs DIY???

I have approx. 13-1400 sq ft ...wraps around the back of house and have a 14x14 off the side door too

 
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#3 ·
I did that 20 years ago, when I worked on, then later ran a deck crew for a pretty nice landscape company.

We used Penofin, and recommended doing it every 3 years. We would wash the deck with TSP (TRisodium Phosphate) and stiff deck brushes, and pressure wash it. Then we would apply 2 coats of penofin using an HVLP spray gun.

It smells awful, a nasty sour smell and it clings to you. But it works good.

I agree, there's no stain that will last 10 years on a deck that gets used.

http://www.penofin.com/

I will be using this on my own deck that I built last year.
 
#4 ·
I dont expect it to last 10 yrs(actually anything you buy nowadays it seems like)....thanks for the tips....I know I do not want a solid stain.

I was told to figure at least 1.00 sq ft to have it done...but then I have no idea how much to buy for DIY
 
#9 ·
I bought some 25 dollar a gallon crap from menards and it looked like shit the next year and now my deck looks like hell from cracking . :(
 
#10 ·
How wet was the wood when the sealer was first applied? Most of the time when decking boards are laid, the screws or fasteners you choose will squeeze moisture out of the wood. If you seal coat the wood before it dries all the way to the core, the sealer is going to come off. Either wear off, or crack and chunk off.

Wait about 3-4 months after the deck is laid to try to seal it, especially new wood, you will save a lot of headache.
 
#11 ·
Yeah, we always let it have one full year before sealing. The Penofin I talked about penetrates into the wood, its not like a paint/sealer, that makes a surface skin. It doesn't look as pretty as a sealed deck that looks like it was varnished and has a nice glossy sheen to it, but usually anything that sits on top that looks like that will end up peeling off anyway because its a skin, not soaked into the wood.
 
#13 ·
I think I am going to do DIY with the procedure/product from Jesus...just start shopping around to get a good price on product(and hopefully somewhat local)......think I am going to the rails also since I am more than likely not going to be able to color match them.Hopefully 10gal should cover me.

I will not even bring the rhinoliner idea to the wife...she does the grocery shopping and I like food in the house
 
#15 ·
It's not going to be black....

The deck I saw with it had a look more like the plastic (don't remember the trade name) deck material, and with the tan color looked like paint.

But I can see how 'Rhinolining' a deck would be a tough sell to the wife...

I'm going back to the patio slab on my house as soon as I get rid of the hot tub. Wanted to build a deck over it at one time until I heard how much maintenance it requires.
 
#16 ·
Stay away from anything water based, and anything from a big box store usually sucks. I manage a lab that does research into paint and coatings and have invented paints and stains for 25 years. I have not done stains in about 5 years so do not know what is still on the market. The key is to wash with TSP and a stiff brush to get oil based contaminants out. then pressure wash to remove waterbased contaminants. A light sanding (200-325 grain sand paper (with the grain not across) opens the pores and helps penetration. You need about a week to 2 weeks of dry weather after pressure washing to dry the wood (remember oil and water do not mix) and get the best penetration. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! 99% of paint problems are on the wrong end of the paint brush.
 
#21 ·
will a floor sander work(not orbital of course)....thats alot of deck to sand by hand
Chihuahua.

That little bastard can stain ANYTHING.
just a boxer,rottie and beagle here...so it would not be the right shade

The biggest problem with materials not sticking or peeling comes from the chemicals in the pressure treated wood not being cured.You have a existing deck,shouldnt be a problem.
We let any decks we build sit for six months to a year before we treat it,depends on how wet the wood was when it was built.
We have tried everything and australien timber oil from sevens is the best we have used.We use pump up garden sprayers to put it on.
Try to pressure wash and prep the deck before a long dry spell,let it dry for a couple of days,the longer the better.Then use a leaf blower or air compressor to sweep it,and apply per instructions on the bucket.
Thanks!!!...will look into the timber oil
 
#20 ·
The biggest problem with materials not sticking or peeling comes from the chemicals in the pressure treated wood not being cured.You have a existing deck,shouldnt be a problem.
We let any decks we build sit for six months to a year before we treat it,depends on how wet the wood was when it was built.
We have tried everything and australien timber oil from sevens is the best we have used.We use pump up garden sprayers to put it on.
Try to pressure wash and prep the deck before a long dry spell,let it dry for a couple of days,the longer the better.Then use a leaf blower or air compressor to sweep it,and apply per instructions on the bucket.
 
#24 ·
I have used this product. It is ok but tricky to use and make it look good without overlapping and streaking.
I don't think there is a stain that you will get more than 3 years out of.
Put down something that will look good for 2 to 3 years and be prepared to do it again.
 
#26 ·
did not do anything yet...just did not have time with other stuff going on....waiting till spring. It was a pain trying to find an icemelt that is somewhat safer for it since all entry doors are off both of my decks...trying this stuff out and it is working pretty good so far
http://ibgmagic.com/IBGMagic.htm
 
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