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Project Jimmycon (full width tons jk) REAL Cost!!

13K views 101 replies 28 participants last post by  indy 
#1 · (Edited)
My Jk started life as a 2010 Mountain package Unlimited. Before I signed on the line I upon test drive I had already taken it through a rather large ditch, I decided I liked it so I bought it! The ORV sticker went on it first then the plate. It was purchased in Houghton lake where it was easy to drive back to our cabin through the woods (St. Helens.)
After having rigs in the past with gears and lockers I relized quickly that I should have just bought a Rubi and been done... Right.... Wrong!! It came with the typical d44/30 setup with 3:73 gears. !!k miles on it I had lifted it and put 35" KM2s on it which leads me to now! After pricing how I wanted to setup a Rubi 44 and getting sticker shock at the 4500 bucks I was getting ready to soak into a thin tubed 44 I WOKE up!! I then called Currie and Dynatrac for prices on there 60s, Wrong not an option for this blue collar worker!
I ended up buying Bustabizz's fullwidth 79 Dana 60s. The front is setup with 5:13 gears, ARB, Alloy 35 spline inner/outers CTM joints and Solid knuckles and spindles. The rear is setup with a 35 spline spool, Which will get switched with an ARB ,5:13 gears, disc brakes, and Alloy FF axle shafts. Clearly this is alot of axle for a daily driver, but if I've learned one thing in my past 20 years of building is that this is expensive to do once, but twice as bad to build it twice! Wheels will be Diamond racing 16x10 5.5 backspace with Stauns. The tires will be 38x14.50x16 Toyo mt, not geeked about this (its still my wifes DD!) So I'm keeping the tires resonable! As far as lift goes I currently have a standard duty Rubicon Express 3.5" lift. My thoughts were to keep the stock control arms to keep it a little more road friendly, but quickly realized that I may want a bit more adjustability, so today I orderd the Rubicon Long Arm upgrade to add to my lift! The fun stuff CNC cutting brake! Thats all my wife wants!
As it sits the rear axle is tacked up, and waiting for sandblasting, the front well thats another story we'll say its stripped and ready for sandblasting!
Stay tuned for current updates, finish date is Snofari 2012!
 

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#11 ·
Awesome. :)

You are giving me motivation...bad, expensive motivation... LOL

To answer someone else the speedo only needs the feed back from one sensor to work. The ABS needs 2 sensors to work. From what I've been reading a lot of people put sensors on the rears and that's where they stop. You need all 4 for traction control to function.

What will putting all 4 sensors on one axle do? Just shut the light off but not really allow the traction control system to work?
 
#12 ·
Yes.

We have put tons under JK's a few times and the tone ring thing can be fun:sonicjay:
i believe in a stock aplication the left rear is your speedo.. the Jk will even throw a traction control code if the steering wheel is alittle off.

This is going to be a sweet build, keep it up:thumb:
 
#17 ·
The front brakes are part of the Solid knuckle/hub conversion so its 3/4 ton rotors with 1/2 ton Chevy calipers instead of the Ford style. The rear is a Chevy style disc setup, so it should be ok for quite a bit larger tire than a 38.

Last night sandblasted f/r axles. I think that whoever decided it was a good idea to undercoat the rear should rethink that before doing it again!! Rear is finish welded.
Dynatrac tone rings arrived, looks good for a press fit on the rear, the front hubs will be getting turned down to accept front rings this week. This SHOULD make the ABS and traction control/speedo work! If not I'll always say it should have!!
Current lingering questions??? Will the front axle go in as is, or will I have to shorten the short side to gain more room for drive shft clearance around the trans oil pan?? We shall see!!
 
#21 ·
Parts ordering day! Debating full double ended hydro setup, or ram assist. In the past I have made my own double ended ram setups. I'm thinking if I buy a PSC kit, but run it through my stock steering pump this would make it slow enough for a daily driver!? My past buggy I had zero issues with road driving? COMMENTS??
 
#23 ·
I haven't seen this, maybe I should check it out! It was just pointed out to me that if a desert race truck can fly at 120mph straight than I should be able to do 55 mph on the street! My old rig I had at 75 mph a couple times with full hydro.
 
#26 ·
Thats pretty trick! So then does that use the PSC kit fot the steering box or did you do the machine work yourself? That looks like a Rock Jock axle. If anything I may be able to keep the ram higher since I'm using a kingpin axle with highsteer.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Went up and helped Indy check axle fitment over the weekend. We also had a chance to install a Rubicon Express long arm upgrade kit.

Front axle all tacked up and sitting in there...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/73378327@N05/6624672177/

The rear axle was mocked up on the bench, taking measurements from a stock JK D44, that was not in a vehicle. Worked out pretty good.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/73378327@N05/6624668161/

And then we decided to do the long arm kit... Which commenced with Jim getting the plasma cutter out and whacking brackets off. It's not often I see someone hack up their Jeep that's hardly a year old... Does this void the warranty?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/73378327@N05/6624664395/
 
#47 ·
Very nice...subscribed. :thumb: My fiancee has an '11 JK, but her big modification plans right now are just adding some used OEM side steps. :teehee:


And then we decided to do the long arm kit... Which commenced with Jim getting the plasma cutter out and whacking brackets off. It's not often I see someone hack up their Jeep that's hardly a year old... Does this void the warranty?
I'll keep cutting off the bad parts if you keep taking the pics!

I'm at the same place with my 2005 LJ build (and it's 6 1/2 yrs. old)...pretty weird to go cutting on a low-mileage Jeep, at least for me. :sonicjay:


Craig
 
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