i know it has been done, i have heard of a couple 350 cherokees. since i am a mopar man i cant go to a chevy motor. i was woundering if anyone had any pics of how a v8 would set in a cherokee. i have a 318 and a 727 trans i am thinking about swaping in this winter. also going to run a 208 t case. i know i will have linkage and driveshaft issues. my couple of questions are.
how much heavyer is a 318 727 and t case vs the 4.0 trans and 231 case?
is the complete unite longer than the 4.0 so it will make rear shaft shorter?
anyone done a v8 swap and have pics and or can give me some insite on prob i will run into.
how bad was electrical to make it run.
my cherokee is an 89 running a 93 ho motor.
i want to get back to basics no computer and loose the 4.0 front pully system everytime i take it into mud another pully starts squaling and it drives me nuts.
from what i have found there is less than 20 lbs diff between a gen 1 350 and the 4.0. still woundering how the lengh of the complete unit ended up and how do u keep the v8 cool .
it stays pretty cool unless your towing something. He uses his to tow and it was over heating like crazy so he swapped in a grand cherokee rad and now it stays really cool
good to know if he would mind sending some pics and info that would be really helpful. like what trans and t case he ran. i herd started gets in way of upper control arm is that true. thanks again for the help really want to make this happen
well did some measurements off a ramcharger with a 318 and the only parts that looks like it may be tight is the starter and exhaust manifolds. dont think headers will fit.
anyone know if the jeep steering box will clear since the pu and rc were on the outside of the frame?
also is there a way to hook up stock tach since it was through the computer and i plan to elimate most if not all of my computer and trans controller.
also anyone have an idea of how to retie in the netural safty switch or can i run without it?
I did a 355, turbo 350, with a s10 231 84 xj years ago with a custom 3 core , it was okay unless stuck in traffic or at silver lake.I used to remove hood there and still ran hot, theirs just not a lot of room for a big radiator.mine was a 4cyl i had to cut my sadle and move hood latch i dont think it will be an lssue with your 4.0 they run great with v8 power if you overcome cooling probs
well it begins i pulled the motor t case and trans out and removed front clip. so i guess im going for it. i allready have a 318 so im going to try to fit that in with the 727 and will see how that goes this weekend. should be fun
well set the 318 in for the first time. motor mounts on the 318 wont work so i had a set off a 440 which are tight to block and will be able to use them so thats good. i want the motor farther back then firewall will alow on passenger side so i will have to cut cornor and move it in a couple of inches. but good thing was with the 727 an 318 combo t case bolted right up and once i move it 1 inch farther back it will be setting in the same place as factory jeep was so i can reuse my driveshafts so thats money saved. exhaust is going to suck eather way so that is a later dates prob. the stock manifolds wont work there isnt enought room for rear exit behind motor so a pair of center dump block hugger headers are in order. oil filter location wont fly because i used a van motor which puts the oil filter facing the rear so i may have to do a filter relocation kit but thats no biggy. all in all dont seam like it will be to bad alot of fab work but will be fun when done. hood dont look like it will fly eather so prob going to make a cowl. if u want pics as i go pm me your email and i send them on and hope this helps.
not for shure on that one but i know for a fact that a van the oilfilter faces rear which wont fly with cherokee and it has a long tube to the top of valve cover to add oil which is no biggy. block is the same and heads should be also but the vans come with a low profile intake vs a truck/suv 318. I just happen to have the van 318 sitting in the cornor
well spent some time in junk yard today and got a complete bracket/motor mounts out of a 93 grand cherokee and also to oil filter plate so i can run the smaller oil filter. the motor mounts are not an exact match but will put me more in the ballpark since the small block or big block brackets are just to big. and also got a starter off a 94 through 98 5.2 and 5.7 motors have a mini high torque starter from factors so i have solved some problems. se if i can make more progress when headers come in hope in the next 2 weeks to have mounts made and motor setting in place.
got the block hugger headers from sanderson and they will fit in the xj so that was nice. ended up making a motor mount for the driverside last night and will get passenger side done tomorrow and by weekend will have trans backet all made up. so far so good and no major clearance issues that a BFH couldnt fix.
i know i am not the best welder and never claimed to be i can bond metal though. the pics below are of me cutting out passenger side unibody rail and inserting angle with bolts for motor mounts and replating the unibody. whant to know your opinions does it look strong enough. the angle is 1/8 11/2 x 11/2 and the flat plate used to make motor mount and replate side of unibody is 3/16 or 10 gauge. what does everyone think?
and for the motor mount which is also tied into front bumper and runs the length of unibody from bumper to firewall.
this is driverside motor mount i made (isnt finished being ground down yet) that wraps around unibody.
I just put A 350 in my xj, its a really cool/ rare swap. I would highly recommend you buy or build unibody stiffeners, it will make the build alot stronger and easier when it comes to building/ mounting a cross member. And prepare to spend alot of money for a good radiator. I spent $605 on a conversion radiator off Novack Conversions.
I just put A 350 in my xj, its a really cool/ rare swap. I would highly recommend you buy or build unibody stiffeners, it will make the build alot stronger and easier when it comes to building/ mounting a cross member. And prepare to spend alot of money for a good radiator. I spent $605 on a conversion radiator off Novack Conversions.
Is that the way you plan on leaving it? Most people try to raise the crossmember higher, not lower. I don't know how high you are, but even with a lot of lift that will likely be a issue for you.
i did plate both sides of the unibody in the motor bay to stiffin it up. i am going to run about 10" of lift and prob 37's. how much lift you got on there.
cant wait to see pics when yours is done looks really tough so far and keep up the good work.
My tires are actually 16 wide and 38.5 tall. I measured the jeep when it was stock and how it sits now, and its exactly 16 inches higher now (bigger than i was planning on)
I will try to get some better pictures up sometime this weekend. they might help give you ideas. I have made progress since where i left off in my build thread. I just need a back bumper, limiting straps, a rear driveshaft, and to finish my track bar and steering.
got the trans crossmember all made up and put in over the weekend. also droped the fuel tank out and started to get the plans going to install the fuel cell. will post more pics soon
So are you going from EFI to carb? I wheeled a carb truck and didnt like it. It burbled and ran like shit in off camber situations. As for your build keep up the good work!
yes going to carb i am going to do a truck avenger offroad carb. i like not having hardly any wires in the motor compartment and keeping things very basic.
Well good to see you sticking to what you want, :thumb: looking good as well keep it up.
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