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177K views 1K replies 146 participants last post by  Gunsworth 
#1 · (Edited)
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#218 ·
from what i have read a tj need's to be a 03 or later to have enough fuel pressure to run the 6.0. they say sometimes the earlier ones will work and sometimes they wont.
 
#220 ·
03-04 went to I think 45-48 psi.

That is why I went with a different pump, my TJ was like 40 psi. So I went with the corvette goodies..
My research shows it's actually the Jeep regulator/filter that is causing the issue, not the pump. An unrestricted Jeep pump should be more than enough (personally I am using a Walbro 255LPH in tank). Go back a few posts and look at the pics I put up. Novak now sells that kits that replaces the Jeep filter/regulator with a flow through design.

Another option would be to tap the tank with a bulkhead type fitting and drop a pick-up line in the tank with an external in-line pump.

But until you get around the Jeep filter/regulator your fuel is going to be restricted.

Edit: By "unrestricted Jeep pump" I mean no Jeep regulator; you still need a regulator to keep it in the range the engine wants/needs.
 
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#231 ·
I don't know what engine you had in your 69 Camaro but if it was a vintage engine, it was running at 6 psi with no regulator or return line. Now you will be running at 60 psi, require a regulator and return line. It's a huge difference.

Why will you need a new fuel pump when you go to a fuel cell? Fuel cells can utilize an in tank pump.

I'm not saying that an external pump won't work. But, I never found a good setup. I talked to a lot of people and tried a variety of pumps. I spent hundreds of dollars experimenting. ALL OF THEM ran hot and eventually quit after a period of time. The advantage of the in tank pump is that the gasoline keeps them cool. Plus, most pumps are designed to push fuel, not pull fuel. Diaphragm pumps fail quickly when pulling. Yes, the gerotor style pumps are a mechanical pump that pulls but those are the ones that ran hot.

With luck, you are getting good advice from someone that has a good working system.
 
#232 ·
Yes, the same pump could be ran in a fuel cell. Didn't the external pumps try to ruin at least 2 of your wheeling trips before you switched?
If you want to compete with this thing then it would be a real bummer to get all the way to a comp (spend the money) just to get sidelined at the worst time over a known problem.
 
#233 ·
I am not trying to argue.
Just an old fart who has built a couple fuel systems (not for a LS) and had enough failures to learn from. (And I will continue to learn cause I still do not know much)
Your stock tank sender/fuel pump can be removed and a replacement installed to feed that LS.
GenRite makes a ring for the top of a tank that a Jeep style sender will mount to. Have one in the fuel cell in my POS. The sender/fuel pump hanger will allow about 4" of variation in tank depth so it should adapt to about any cell..

BTW- Bet you throw a great party!
 
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#251 ·
I replaced my fuel pump with an airtex e3501m (01 2500hd with 6.0) and it lasted just over a year with 10k before it wouldn't put out more than 53psi , sending unit lasted a month.... This time I bucked up and went with a delphi. After some research I found that people dont have luck with the cheaper fuel pumps. I know you have a different application, but I will never buy airtex again
 
#236 ·
I went with this one for my CJ8. Not sure if the grill opening is the same on the CJ and TJ.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/52036/10002/-1

The reason I did this one is it is a double pass. The fluid enters the top passenger side, flows to the drivers side, drops to the bottom half and flows back to the passenger side. This puts both the input and output on the passenger side, which matches better what the engine outputs are.

You can do that style, just need to route a longer hose for the top one.
 
#242 ·
headers showed up here today. sandersons bare steel. the pass side doesn't fit round the novak motor mount. sucks, thats the only motor mount that fit worth a crap. for some reason i thought becky was buying novak headers. for anyone doing a ls swap, i wouldn't go with the novak mounts.
 
#243 ·
I called Novak and placed the order so i could ask them specifically if these would work with those mounts, his answer was "absolutely". The mounts were on back order because they redesigned them this year......looks like that was a bad idea for them.....and in turn for me.:(
 
#248 ·
Looking at Novak's site, my mounts look completely different than their TJ mounts.

For what its worth, I think that 'Novaks' header appear to be sanderson block huggers. THey look identical to the ones I got yesterday.

Novak's headers: (called CCLS1)

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/headers/gm_g3_small_block_v8_headers.htm


Here's sandersons's LS1 block huggers (called CC1LS1)

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-CC1LS1-Chevy-LS1-Blockhugger-Header.html

Here are pictures of the sandersons I got yesterday. I didn't do the passenger side, since that requires removing the oil dipstick and I was on my way to bowling...

Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest - View Single Post - Refurbishing my Scrambler...

In the 2nd picture, you can see the location of the mount. The mount is under the 2nd cylinder back, the headers dump at the number 3 cyl. My motor plates are in the center of the 3 holes. You could gain 1/4 - 3/8 clearance or so moving them to the rear-most set of holes. Might help?
 
#250 ·
On YJs, its not too hard. On TJs, the frame narrows due to the coil buckets and its hard to clear.

There are some OEM stamped manifolds for one of the corvettes that are almost factory block huggers.


But the wierd thing is that if she has the CC1LS1 headers those ARE the header that Novak recommends....
 
#252 ·
the novak motor mounts pretty much suck for being supposed bolt in. on the ls motor, the mounts are in the same exact location on the block from drivers to pass side. the novak frame side mounts bolt over the factory 4.0 mounts on the frame, but the factory mounts for the 4.0 are not even from the drivers and pass side. one mount is alot farther forward than the other. so the novak ls mounts are not even close to the same spots on the frame. then the engine side of the novak mounts are adjustable front to back. on one side the mount is bolted to the block all the way in the forward location and the other one is ll the way in the rear location and the motor still isn't running perfectly straight in the frame. all that has the frame side of the pass mount way behind the spot where the mount bolts on the block and the header hits it. going to have to rebuild the mount.
 
#256 ·
Got to love this just bolt it in and go type of stuff.
Never works that way and the customer ends up spending more $ than expected and the installer/tech/fabricator/builder cannot charge for the time invested.

Sorry it is turning out this way, but I understand.

Sent them an email about their motor mounts. If for no other result but to have them reevaluate the "new" design.

Kevin will be compensated for his time, had I known I would have just had him make the mounts......:(
 
#258 ·
I don't even see the bolt in style offered anymore by them. Only the weld in ones:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/engine_mounts/mmtj-g.htm

Maybe they found the same thing? MAybe call them and see if they can do anything for you...

I will at 8 when they open, in the mean time they have an email waiting for them.


Also, was told the corvette regulator/filter combo would be a good way to go. having a hell of a time finding this. Anyone have a link?
 
#264 ·
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