I would first like to thank my grandparents and especially my grandpa for all of his help with the build. I have been doing all of the work in his shop with his help. This both of ours first truck build but, not his first time in the garage... Ill let you see some of the toys that have rolled out of the garage before :naughty:
As of now
99 Blazer zr2
4.3 v6
-msd ignition
-jba headers egr delete
-flowmaster super44
-gibson 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust
-missing kitty
5 speed
31 bfg at's
torsion bar lift
lift shackles
homemade front bumper
hmm that’s a good point, I forgot about space limitations on the knuckle.
I had my caps tacked and I broke one side at the ears, probably from the ball joint failing. But the other side stretched far enough to oval out the yokes and pop out a cap. They are bad enough that I can see day light around all of my caps and their only held in by the tacks. I was hoping that these would be a cheap way to keep the ears from stretching.
When are you getting the tech manuals? What have you changed so far? I know you said it wasn't getting fuel. I'm assuming you did pump and filter, did you check fuel pressure at the rail?
I should have the manuals by the weekend, and I found out it wasn’t a fuel problem. It’s a problem with the spark. I have replaced the entire ignition system with no luck. I found that I have power to the coil, leaving it to be the interment pulse. The crank position sensor sends the pulse to the computer and then the computer sends it to the ignitron control module which feeds the coil.
I’ve replaced and checked for continuity at the CPS so the computer is getting a signal. However it looks like this is also how the computer shuts the truck off. So it could be a security problem or the Inertia switch.
Tacking the caps won't keep the ears from stretching. They just keep the caps from coming out if the snap ring fails. I've seen a lot of people do it but I've never seen the need if the yoke is in good shape. If it's not in good shape, you're going to have joint failure anyway.
The caps on my last set of shafts were tacked. It’s the stretching of the ears that I’m concerned with. I’m getting a new set of shafts from Bevertown, and I’m trying to find ways to keep them in one piece. I’m hoping that the added steel will keep ears together.
That’s a factory design, Ford used the wedges to attach their radius arms to the axle. Nice thing about the wedge design is that you can buy degreed bushings to achieve the proper caster angle. Another nice thing about the wedge design is that the coil mounts on top of the radius arm mount, saving a ton of room on the axle.
i understand its factory but i have seen a couple people use just the ends like you did with D.O.M tubing and better joints. so i was wondering if you can buy the wedges and clamps. i want to do a radius arm like you did to a fullsize chevy.
Kyle M. bought the weld-on wedges for his new 60, I’m sure he could tell you where to find them. As for the clamp part I’m not sure, but finding a used set shouldn't be hard. A junk yard might have a set or just post in the wanted section and you could have a set in a day or two.
Its super stable on the road, even without sway bars. I could use one for those windy days though. It rides a lot smother/softer than when it was IFS, even with leafs in the rear I’d say it rides better than my buddy’s tj :teehee:
On the trail it is just as stable, I’m sure a lot of it is due having a wider WMS. The flex is great too, I don’t get any binding as my coils are trapped and I lift a tire before it binds. The trapped coils also help with keeping it stable; you don’t get those weird unloading characteristics. I haven’t measured its RTI score but last time when I was at UORC there was a jeep on 42s next to the ramp and it looked like I could park on it. I’ll be able to tell you after Snofari, if I can get up on Bevertowns tire :d:
Don’t know yet, but I pulled the driver’s side valve cover and the valves are moving. But I’m going to check that the chain hasn’t jumped tomorrow before work. After that I’m going to start working on checking electrical sensors.
School, work, and weather has kept me from working on it
:teehee: just because the cam is turning does not mean it hasnt jumped timing, you might want to check and make sure the distributor is spinning too. I have a complete motor sitting at jj's if you need anything. Good luck with it, i wish i could be more help.
Yeah the distributor spins at least I’m told by my buddies, but tomorrow I’m going to put #1 cylinder at TDC and make sure the distributer is pointing in the right direction. And I’m close to swapping motors, I’ve spent enough that I could of swapped in a lower mileage 4.3 at this point. Kinda pisses me off.
By the time you swap motors you could have put a 5.7 is :teehee: my motor ran when pulled, has everything but the alternator, if it comes down to it i can make you a hell of a deal as i am considering scrapping it.
Better get that thing running before snofari! I think ima need a new fuel pump before we go as it takes 2 cranks of the key to start. Btw I have a jeep they arnt suppose to ride smooth on the road besides I have a blown shock:finger:
As far as the ears stretching goes I feel your pain with the turdy. Thinking a d60 is the solution:thumb:
What are you running for a front drive shaft ? I am still trying to figure out what to use on my 2000 sas s10 I know I need a double cardan upper at t case but all the j yards I have visted don't have any old chevy trucks
I switched the front output on my tcase to a 231j output and yoke. That allowed me to run a 2 door 4 cylinder 5 speed cherokee front drive shaft, which has a double cardan joint.
Alright I think I have my no spark/no start issue figured out. I just checked the timing chain last night and it didn’t jump so that’s all good. And I just ordered a new computer from Autozone. I’m hopping that’s it, everything else checks out to be ok. The new computer comes in on Friday so ill find out then
:teehee: I could still bring my computer by on saturday, work will have me in Mt Pleasant at some point.
I thought you tried a different computer already?
I did but it wasn’t programmed for my vin. The Autozone one is, I’m not sure if a computer will work without it being flashed for the right vin. Thanks for the offer tho
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