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Need answers on a 1995 F-250 with 7.3L Turbo

3K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  TurdBronco 
#1 ·
I'm going to take a look at this http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/car/401027926.html

tomorrow. What should I look for and what should I watch out for that would want me to back away from the truck as fast as I can!! :sonicjay:

It has 119,000 miles on it. It would be pulling a 2006 Unlimited to the trails and back.


Thanks in advance to all you diesel guys!!!
 
#2 ·
-Make sure it hasn't been started yet that day. When you get there, count how long the 'wait to start' light stays on. 8+ seconds is normal and means at least 6 plugs are woring correctly. 2-3 second means at least 2 glow plugs are bad. less than that or a clicking noise means the glow plug relay is bad. When it starts, look for smoke exiting the tailpipe for the first 30 seconds or so, that is another good indication of glowplug conditions. If it smokes just for the first 20-30 seconds, it;s fuel (glow plugs), if it smokes for a few minutes then stops, it might be oil (blowby). That scenario really isn't a bad deal though. If it smokes longer, you have bad injectors/bad blowby
-fuel leak in the engine valley, might even drip down the trans bellhousing ($100 lift pump + 4 hours labor) or fuel bowl crack (anywhere from $50-$600)
-endplay in the turbo impellor shaft (rebuilds are only ~$300)
-abnormal wear of turbo impeller from bad air filter/cracked intake box (was a recall)
-Ask him about using diesel coolant (different than normal coolant). Not using the right coolant can cause cavitation and damage to the walls
-play in front end components. Should be able to feel vibes. In any case, the 2wd front end is cheap to rebuild
-hopefully the new clutch was upgraded over stock
-test the fuel tank selector switch

buy it, then-
tymar intake $140
downpipe and exhaust $450
Tony Wildman chip $400
and you'll be amazed
 
#5 ·
LOL.

BTW, it's weird that it is listed in the Cincinnati craig's list, but is in Milford.

Also, it is a 2wd 5-speed - that's what I have (but a 1996) and I can get 21 mpg unloaded / 17 mpg hauling my truck camper and a 6x10 enclosed motorcycle trailer as long as I stay at 2000 rpm or below (3.55 gears = about 65 mph @ 2000)

Ask these questions about the tranny/clutch:

Why was the trans replaced?
Does it have a new clutch?
Is it a single mass or dual mass flywheel?

Dual-mass flywheels are stock. They work well for 30k to 100k miles, and then they die. You get some warning (do a search on thedieselstop.com for "DMFW"), but when they let go, they take the bellhousing out. The ZF 5-speed has an integral bellhousing, so this may be why it has a new trans.

Dual-mass flywheels are almost always changed out for a single mass unit - the trans/clutch will be a lot noisier with a SMFW, but it will be bulletproof. My truck had 2 DMFW that lasted about 60K each before they got swapped out. The first time was under warranty, the second time I installed a SMFW and clutch kit from south bend clutch for $700 parts.

The stock clutch isn't much good for more than 250hp - I did all the mods bones suggested above and ended up slipping in 3rd gear and higher. The DMFW was also getting real noisy, so I replaced it all.

Another thing to keep powerstrokes happy is oil changes religiously at 5k and fuel filters every 10k. The HEUI injectors use engine oil pressurized to ~1800 psi to fire the fuel inside the injector; these pressures plus the shear the oil goes through breaks it down quickly.

At 119k, you're probably close to needing a waterpump, they can be had for about $160 if you know where to look, don't go to a dealer or you may die when you see over $400 for parts.

Bones mentioned glowplugs - you should change them if they're old; about $10 at autozone for the preferred autolite (beru) parts. takes a couple of hours and some patience to swap them out. Use a light touch when taking them out - some can become carbon fouled and be tough to get out. What usually happens is that someone reefs on them, and the tip breaks off and falls into the cylinder. That always winds up in pulling the cylinder head off. :(

Good luck - I love mine, Bones loved his, regretted selling it and now has another. :sonicjay:
 
#6 ·
ONLY BUY BERU OR MOTORCRAFT GLOWPLUGS

We need a glowplug swap party, I need to do mine but have never done it.

I can swap a lifter pump in about 90 minutes with the right tool though haha
 
#8 · (Edited)
ONLY BUY BERU OR MOTORCRAFT GLOWPLUGS

We need a glowplug swap party, I need to do mine but have never done it.
Im in. I've had my truck a few years and never done them. Like to before winter.

I wish i had a 5 speed. Stupid E4OD :(


2500?? Sounds cheap. I paid 400 bucks for my exhaust and it made a noticeable turbo difference. Spooled much faster and made me wish i had it put on the day i bought the truck.
 
#7 ·
It's in Milford, OH not Milford, MI :sonicjay:

It already had the water pump changed and the glow plug relay changed.

I'm just sent an email on the flywheel. It was a beater but it started right up and didn't smoke a bit. This kid went to diesel school for two years or so he says. The body and interior is ROUGH but the truck is only $2500. The exhaust needs to be completely replaced. There was no play in the turbo. The valve cover gaskets were just done with a new injector harness.

Another thing that I'm concerned about is that it doesn't shift into gears that easy and he said something about new syncros . . . I thought it would shift really easy with those but it does shift. The clutch grabs right at the floor. I thought it should grab at the top but I don't know on that either.

The trans is the ZF 5-speed. He went through two (the orignal and a cheepy from the junk yard) autos and said F**K it and put the ZF in. It still has the colum shifter :sonicjay:


Thanks once again for the insight and please give more!! :thumb: :thumb: :beer: :beer: :thumb: :thumb:
 
#12 ·
There is a little ball and socket on the clutch linkage that uses a plastic bushing to hold it in and take up slack - they go for about $5 and are always in stock...they go bad and your clutch gets sloppy and if they go real bad, the rod will fall out on the inside of the truck and the return spring will suck your clutch pedal to the floor and keep it there (stranding you in an intersection :tonka: )

As far as syncros, my third gear synchro is bad - partialy from the aforementioned bushing and partially from trying to shift it into third too fast while drag racing :d: I've lived with the bad syncro for 50K - I just double-clutch and the trans snicks right into gear.

Exhausts are cheap - you can probably find one on e-gay for $400 or less. Don't bother with a muffler, just run 4" pipe out the back - the front end of the truck is so noisy, you won't notice any exhaust sound. :sonicjay:

Glow plugs are a cinch after you remove the valve covers - especially on a truck that isn't intercooled. 10mm socket to get them out AFTER you use a mightyvac to suction out the oil sitting around the plugs. If you don't remove the oil around the plugs first, it will drain into your cylinder and you have the chance of damaging your engine when you crank it.
 
#9 ·
Scott, lets us know when you can take us through changing the plugs ahahha

and I'll take you through the lift pump R&R
 
#11 ·
Thats real low miles for that type of truck. On the other hand I wouldnt cheap out on power windows, ac, those type options on something you'll be spending many hours in while towing.
Ugly rust wise?


Also, how hard is it to change the coolant? There's no freakin cap. Do you have to pull the lower hose and refill thru the overflow? If so, thats gay.
 
#15 ·
x2 on the clutch grab mostly like worn out or hopefully just out of adjustment. Trans sounds ok with pulling the top or at least draining the oil and looking for metal chunks.

Pictures?
 
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