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The LS Hunter Dakota

366K views 3K replies 161 participants last post by  greygoose 
#1 · (Edited)
Current pic

Found a pic of it stock.



First lift and 33's



Started the SAS

New rear axle




Oh yea another new engine :(


Getting a pile of parts


I love my axle stand


44 all done except brakes


BLING :teehee:


Lead locker anyone?


Starting mocking up front axle




Little to long of spring


Poser Pic

New meets



Damn Dog






Little Helper? Eva?


Idea of where it will be at




Different springs


Much better


Other helper (Dad)


More bracing


Rear mounts for front leafs


Stupid springs


Beadlocks?


Hrmmmm


9" all set up


Mounting dem


Crossmember clearenced for driveshaft


Profile


Damn Dog


Beast looking




Weld much?
 
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#846 ·
The leverage on the bolt won't be an issue, it'll be too busy tearing the thin walled bushing housings open at the HAZ because beefy didn't wanna spend the extra $2 on good parts :finger:
 
#861 ·
What is this crazzieness about separation at the trans mount?
Long story short, you need to use a single bushing in the center with rigid mounts at the frame, not a crossmember ridgid mounted to the trans with bushings on the outer ends where it mounts to the frame. Outboarded bushings put lots of stress on important things like the transmission case.
 
#848 ·
Okay my $.02

I agree with Brandon. I was gonna do mine similar and after research I didn't wanna break the block. I wasn't concerned about the bolts as the leverage in the boss on the block. While it will support the weight standing still, the weight crashing down in the bolts while wheeling is a bit different.

Take some L shaped plate and weld it to the frame either side of motor. Take another plate same in size and shape and overlap previous plate. Now make outer plate removable via bolts. Weld your tube off the removable plate and still put your bushings at the motor.

Now if you drill some large holes in the frame, take the welded plate and drill the same holes in the same locations only smaller. Now with that plate weld some nuts to the inside of it. So now you take said plate and slide onto the frame. The nuts welded to the plate will be recessed inside the frame rails. Weld this plate to your frame. The second plate that has your tube welded to it will be removable so you can still drop out the bottom but still keep your bushings at the motor reducing the leverage.


Its pictured really well in my head, does that make any sense?
 
#850 ·
I'm really confused it's almost identical to how it was setup from the factory. I don't see any problem other than the weld at the motor. I plan to gusset that part.

I understand leverage but this is how it's been setup for years on the truck, I'll put a cradle on it and call it good.

Next topic.

Can I move my lower links in toward the center of the truck 2"? I'm adding a 4th link as well.
 
#855 ·
The pic u posted is not correct for my Dakota. The one I just posted is what I had I'll measure tonight it was over 10" I believe. And it also support the weight of the entire IFS setup before this. So if anything I've lessened the load now.
 
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