I picked up a decent condition 1966 C-10 that Gmotox was selling for a friend. I was looking for a project that my wife and I could work on together (and she really likes single-cab pickups).
It was a Utah truck until a few years ago, and it still is pretty rusty in places - but the frame and everything else is in great shape - well, that is, before I spent some time lying beneath it changing oil. :teehee: Truck looks like it was hit fairly hard in the front end and had to have the doghouse replaced. Frame rails ahead of the front suspension crossmember are hosed - need to take it to a frame shop and see what they have to say about it. Truck goes down the road good - but the bed looks a bit tweaked. All-in-all, it is a 43 year-old truck, and shit happens. :d: Hoping the frame is fine or can be easily fixed - I will probably cut out the bent parts and weld in new frame rails ahead of the engine.
Here are some pictures:
It's a plain-jane 66 C-10 with a 195 hp 283 driving the rear wheels through a (I think) Saginaw 4-speed. Single-circuit 4 wheel drum brakes (the parking brake still works!)
Plans:
Replace braking system with modern dual-circuit power MC and disc brakes
All new suspension bushings, TREs, springs, shocks and add swaybars
Power steering if I can find a setup that isn't over-boosted like the old GM setups
Relocate fuel tank from cab to behind the rear axle (under the bed)
Cut out all rust and weld in patch panels
Redo the wiring harness
Lower 3" in front, 4" in rear
Nasty SBC to pose as the original 283
Looking for a MIG welder to get the party started! :naughty:
Very easy to work with, good pirces on a whole changeover, shipped to my door, as I am lazy.
I like Skoot's idea, toss on a carb intake on a 6.0 liter and throw in a big cam. They make stupid power, just need to get the ignition sorted out, but there are solutions for that.
Why not? People do it all the time. In fact Edelbrock sells a kit for it. You get the modern spark / timing without all the wiring and additional components that fuel injection requires. Aside from that the power has been proven to be identical to EFI.
If the front end is all twisted, and since you plan on dropping it in front, you might just put a diffrent sub-frame up front that has the modern amenities like larger disc brakes, better front end geometry, and better steering.
I can't believe I'm going to say this, but screw all that LS crap, go grab a dime-a-dozen 350 block, toss in the crank from the 283 (especially if it's steel) with some 327 rods, flat-tops, balance to the moon with either worked over factory heads or some affordable Dart iron heads, cover your roller rockers with valve cover spacers and those nicely patina'd 283 covers, paint an aluminum intake all scroggy to match, stick the stock air cleaner over a modern 4bbl and get it awn. Small-journal 302, old school style for an old school truck.
I love those trucks lowered, but don't be afraid to hoist the front end up gasser style, throw'n sparks off the back bumper is way cooler when the front end is in the air.
You're preaching to the choir. :thumb:
If I can't go totally modern, I'm not going to dumb-down a F.I. motor to use a carb. I have access to a small-journal 327 block to stuff my 283 crank and rods into to wind up with the same effect, however, I'd like torque below 4000 rpm too - that's why I'm considering a 377. A few more cubes and similar piston speeds to wring out 6500 rpm (or more :d: )
I will use all the old patina-ed parts I can, with the exception of buying THESE.
I will also look for an old offy or weiand aluminum manifold with the hole for the oil-filler tube to finish it off. I am also working on figuring out a good way to hide programmable spark timing. :d:
Well, today I started to tear down the engine I bought - these are the specs that were listed:
The motor is a 377-CID stroker combination :
- 350 block STD bore and a 400 crank machined to fit the 350 journals.
- 5.565" rods and STD 350 pistons
- 4 bolt main block with fresh cylinder hone
- Hydraulic flat tappet cam, 224 Int/ 234 Exh @ 0.050" lift
- All new bearings and gaskets.
- Heads are GM 882 casting with mild port and polish job,76cc. 9.5:1 compression, with 2.02/1.60 valves
- Intake is gasket matched to the heads
- Engine is painted blue
- Intake is powder coated oxide red
I'm much more versed in rebuilding motorcycle engines, but I don't think a few things are right...
These "new bearings" sure look funny...
Must have used a different gasket to do the matching...
I got cheated on my dial gauge! Clearly, I have 2.02" intake valves, but my calipers must be off...
Something for no extra charge!
These must be for improved oiling:
Sigh. What a fucking mess. "Fresh hone" must mean knocking down the ridge until you go through a set of stones.
I bought this engine from someone that bought it from someone else that traded something for it in the beginning - so, I'm not about to go trying to get my money back. Looks like I'll have a bit more work to do.
I haven't plastiguaged the mains yet - just the four of the rods... and they are from 0.007 to 0.03. (that's NOT a typo). I hope to hell the mains are in spec and I can get away with having the crank cleaned up and the rods resized - though who knows what else is hosed with this damn thing.
Easyest way to do up grade is to swap out entire frame from early to mid 80's truck. Easy swap by far possibly swap frame mounts if need be other wise frames are prity close. Or I have seen people mate a 70's camaro front sub into frame and use a 12 bolt car rear end.
Ya it is hard to beat the HP from a carberated motor. But depending on what he is using it for it is eaven harder to beat the dependability of fuel injection. That and no offence but some women don't under stand the full concept of how to start a carberated motor. Due to they ae to used to fuel injected ones.
Easyest way to do up grade is to swap out entire frame from early to mid 80's truck. Easy swap by far possibly swap frame mounts if need be other wise frames are prity close. Or I have seen people mate a 70's camaro front sub into frame and use a 12 bolt car rear end.
Ya it is hard to beat the HP from a carberated motor. But depending on what he is using it for it is eaven harder to beat the dependability of fuel injection. That and no offence but some women don't under stand the full concept of how to start a carberated motor. Due to they ae to used to fuel injected ones.
The f-ed up motor you bought will end up being better than they had claimed in the end - and you know the work is done to your standards when you did it yourself.
The only way I would buy any performance motor is if it was apart when I went to look at it.
Think about how many of that 95% of this website that you quoted before have built motors...
That's what I get for trusting someone with good i-trader :sonicjay: . It's totally my fault though - and you are 100% about me not taking the time to inspect it before the purchase.
In defense of the person I purchased it from - I think he bought it (like I did) not knowing about the external balancing issue - maybe when he found out about having to have it balanced, he just didn't have the time or inclination to do it.
You're also correct that it will be done right when I do it - but this seriously changes plans this winter - because I don't have the funds allotted for a for build on an engine (because everything will be gone through completely).
Looks like the 283 will get a refresh over the winter - at least new gaskets, seals, rings and timing chain (and a valve job).
the block and heads came from a camaro block was cleaned and honed, heads were checked and ported, crank was cut to 350 journals, and machined to clear the pistons, rods are also reconditioned 400 rods cut to 350 journal, motor has not been fired since it assembly. was gonna use it for firgure 8 racing in a 76 monte carlo but dont know if ill have the money to build the rest of the car so putting the whole project on hold until the money situation gets a little better.
I would seriously reconsider EVER buying something from Brads01ws6
Since SBC's come from anywhere and go anywhere, the camaro part isn't misleading, however,
* the block is from a 1970 C10 (according to the stamping)
* the heads are these:
1970-80 333882 350,400 1.94 1.5 76
E164 = Cast on May 16th, 1974
The crank is a 400 casting...however - I'm not sure on it never being fired...
So I found the root of my engine problem. Brads01ws6.
I can't do anything about it, however, I can let people know that anything you sell may not be 100% factual.
If you want to totally change directions, I'll have a 2WD 7.3L PSD van turbo drivetrain and E450 rolling chassis on the market, soon. Or, I know of the whereabouts of a very affordable 6.0L LQ4. :naughty:
Shit dude $650? I would be pissed.
Dont care who built it i'd be seeking money back from dmc. Doesnt say it needs rebuilt in his add. So hes the current seller. He should have did some research into it before passing it on.
He mis-represented it.
I would never resell something based solely on the PO's word or description.
I wouldn't pin it on DMC, I have done business with him myself, and he is a stand up guy. IMO Scooter is handling this properly. He owned up to his end, and dug down to the root of the problem.
Scooter good luck with the build. IIRC machine work on my SBC was around $600 a couple years ago from Reichert Racing. I didn't specify and they built it a little loose though, I think I would run a little tighter tolerances if I did it again.
Actually, I think it is just the work of a very dishonest seller that misrepresented it to one person, then it got passed on to the next guy, and I bought it to actually use.
Dood, I love the 60's body style chebys (up to 66). I've owned several of them over the years and they've all been 6 poppers with a three on da tree. Nice smooth driving old trucks.
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