Basically any mods made to this trailer will have to be bolt-on, as I do not want to destroy this trailer in any way. It is in VERY good condition for a M416 as usually they are cut or destroyed in some way, whether it be a crunched floor or sides, or missing parts. Mine is only missing the lunette and blackout lights.
The first thing after the top bows and tarp it will be receiving is a kayak rack, but I plan on making a cross bar system capable of holding a trailer top tent of some sort. I do not want to spend $1k so I may make my own out of canvas and a hard roof of some kind.
Here are the initial pictures...
I forgot to take pics of the top bows, but they are PVC and I got the Idea from Boyink.
Here are the pics of the canvas top though.
What the bows look like... The Bantam is Boyinks'
I actually like the look of the domed canvas, I wonder if I could fiberglass over the canvas to make a lid in some way?
lol. Well you may have a point there. The other thing was all the noise those tongue jacks make. You don't think of it until you wake yourself up numerous times during the night every time you move. But your tent lift will likely make noise too so it's probably moot.
Consider welding the receiver tube flush with the rear crossmember (well, 1/4 out for enough weld surface) to gain more clearance. The pin on mine is underneath, and while it's a little more inconvenient to get stuff hooked up, it's not bad, has a clean look, and gives a better departure. Just a thought.
It would be a good idea, except that my spare tire will be mounted right above it. The one on the flatty we put in pretty tight, and now I cannot use the receiver for things like bike racks and stuff because they hit the jerry can on the back of the jeep (about the same thickness as my spare)
I am not changing out the axle because all my rigs have different bolt patterns anyway. I wish I could ditch the spare.
The H3 will have Yakima trays on it, but down the road if I am towing with something else I may need the hitch mounted rack.
It would be a good idea, except that my spare tire will be mounted right above it. The one on the flatty we put in pretty tight, and now I cannot use the receiver for things like bike racks and stuff because they hit the jerry can on the back of the jeep (about the same thickness as my spare)
Ok so bear with me when you see how the electrical is shaping up in the box. There will only be very light loads on any of the electrical in this thing at any one time as most of the lighting will be LED. The only thing I have not decided if I want to splurge on are LED backup/spot lamps as we usually do get to camp late/set up in the dark.
The outdoor outlet mounted on the bottom of the box has 2- 110v outlets. 1 outlet will run directly off any 110v that is plugged into the opposite side of the box. Probably unnecessary as the post at a campsite with 110v, but I felt it would be a nice option. The other 110v outlet will be powered by the commercial invertor that will be inside the tongue box. I may change this down the road to work 100% off the invertor, it would be as simple as unplugging from the power strip, and plugging into the invertor.
The 12V outlet on the side can run off 110v --> 12v convertor or the battery itself. There probably will be a battery tender inside the box eventually as well.
All but the main switch panel mounted and sealed in place
The 110V, 1 side is from the battery/invertor and the other works when plugged into the pole
Well, the 110V welder that we have used to build a few jeeps seems to be giving up, so we hauled the trailer to my dads and his 220v welder was the rescue!
Welding up the lift frame
Welding on the lid to the lid base, automotive seam sealer will seal the rest before paint.
Mocking up the lift frame
Making brackets
Left front so far
Welding on the rear lid cap
Cutting out the front lid cap
Mocked into place
Closer view
Had to quit early today
Rear view in the light, hitch installed
Drivers side view
Spare tire holder in the hitch mount
Sits fairly tight to the trailer, but you cannot tell in this. This is where it will be for now anyway.
More... the spare will actually be closer to the body of the trailer. We mounted the lift rams, but without the tent on top they are too strong, and will likely need replaced with smaller ones.
The different design rack, this will let me get into the trailer better when camping, I think it will be better in the long run.
I still plan to use the jack for now, maybe down the road do struts if they can get it high enough. The jack will get it close, after I add some wood/rubber to keep from marring the lid too badly.
Without the struts attached, and the lift FULL up
Struts in place
I am going to drill some holes to let me lower it a couple inches as well
The paint made the lift too tight, I think I am going to have to find aluminum arms. Going to strip the paint off and get it sliding for this trip anyway. Lid not re=installed yet.
My parents stopped by to check out the "tree house" and our kitchen remodel
The ladder is the support, as well as a heavy duty set of hinges. It is very sturdy, we had it mounted on our H3 for a trip over the 4th. These are used extensively in Australia, and out west.
Thanks, it's definitely a 20 footer on the paint though. I don't have the time or money to mess with stripping the CARC. I can't wait to fully deploy it tomorrow!
It is made by the same company, but it is a separate component. They have larger ones too, eventually I want one for the opposite side of the trailer I think. It was in my original design anyway.
you shuold be able to tell from the photo with all the certs and degrees you have
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