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My Yj; 6.0 V8, 700R4, D44, D60, H1's, 37's and OBA

117K views 451 replies 65 participants last post by  jeepfreak81 
#1 · (Edited)
Current Picture, Look through thread for buildup:

6.0 updates start here

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=665&page=13

Stats and info: (cut and pasted from another site i have the info posted on)

Vehicle year: 1994 (base vehicle),1991,1998,1985, 1984, 1975, 2001 :D

Year purchased: 1999

Engine and engine mods: 2001 Chevy lq4 6.0 77k miles [strike]355 Chevrolet, Mild cam Edelbrock intake and carb, De-emissioned, dual Exaust, [/strike]

Drivetrain and drivetrain mods: Built 700r4 with manual overrides, Np231C

Axles, gearing, and mods: HP D44 front USA Alloy shafts, Spicer joints Spartan Locker/D60 rear Ford limited Slip, 4.88 gears

Tires & wheels: H1 Double Bead Locks, 37x12.5 Cut BFG Baja (for now), [strike]37x12.5 Goodyear Surplus tires[/strike]

Lift and other suspension mods: BDS 2" SOA suspension and Shocks, removed Swaybar and Trackbars, modified teraflex traction bar

Exterior mods: Custom Rear bumper built by Nick_sg and I, Front bumper built by me with winch mount and TX2 12,000lb 2 speed winch, Foglamps, rock rails with side step, functional ram air scoops for venting excess heat.

Recovery and safety equipment: Koz Sport Cage, 12,000lb TX2 winch, 8klb Warn rear winch, Hi-lift jack, Strap, Tree saver, and a fire extinguisher, assortment of tools and a rag

Skid plating: Stock Skid's for now

Other mods: YORK OBA, (currently disabled)

Best modification: V8 and the 4 wheel discs and tranny by Killer "b"

Worst modification: Rear Tube bumper, bent too easy, the hitch flexes under load, feels like it would come off-- oh wait it did

Primary trails or events: Mounds, Big Rapids, and Silver lake, have done some Whitehall and would like to hit Grayling and Mio (nothing around my house other then my field), did west branch and St. Helen as well

Club/Organization affiliations: GLFWDA, web-boards and friends

Very near future mods: Tons









and here is my just completed install of the New improved 355. .030 over, mild cam























and yes I know I need to replace my gooseneck gasket... i see it belched anti freeze on the intake it wasnt leaking 3 days ago... but i never changed that seal when the engine was apart as i didnt take off the gooseneck
 
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#74 ·
Got a passenger side arm on the way :woot: I checked and the crossover steering will clear. I should be able to take the knuckle for machining next week when I get the arm :woot: I was able to get in the batch they are making this week :woot: :woot:

I am having it drilled and reamed for high steer as I will do that in the near future (after the wedding)

 
#75 ·
Got a LOT done with Adam tonight....

Removed the knuckles so I could take the passenger side for machining, and removed the pitman arm from the drivers side. Ball joints are completely shot and axle seals are gone. One knuckle u-joint is shot.

Adam worked on removing the OBA so we can plumb it with brake line. I roughly knocked the rust off the ait tank and started primering and painting it olive drab. It will be mounted on the rear fender inside now. I don't like the idea of having it underneath where is can get hit, and under the hood looked crummy and cramped the engine bay.

I fixed the free spool feature on my winch that has been jammed for years, but spooling out under power was never that bad so I never worried about it as often as it got used.

Adam brought a cutting disk and finished cutting the kick panel.

I finally called it quits on trying to revive my Optima. These batteries are garbage. I yanked it and will head to Sears this weekend to swap it out hopefully.

The rest of the pics in this thread will start working Feb 20th... but here are the current ones, I hosted them in my fiancee's PB account.






Adam:








 
#76 ·
:woot: :woot: :woot: :woot: :woot: :woot: :woot: :woot:

Time to go to UORC to get some machining done :woot: :woot:

Rockstomper kicks ass, I was originally told 2 week wait for this H1 offset high steer arm, I called up and they were in the middle of a run so he slipped another in for me and was able to get it out dang near same day... I ordered last week and have it today, including 4 days worth of shipping, GREAT people to deal with. When I ordered one, he even asked if I was sure that my tie rod in the crossover was going to clear the wheels as a lot of the time they don't. I had already double checked this, but he was thorough in making sure I got the right parts. VERY happy with their service.

 
#83 · (Edited)
Clearance of the rockstomper H1 Arm on the knuckle to wheel, found a snafu that may cost me a bit... just not sure how much yet as it depends on if I can find a stock F250 tie rod or not. The tie rod I had that was good has the wrong taper on the ends (from a 77 LP axle) and my other 78 tie rod the long side end is completely shit. If I can't find a used tie rod for now I will just ante up for my high steer early.

Second snafu -- I have to run a spacer under the arm. The Rockstomper arm must have one when used in an SOA application -- my fault, oops. This snafu is a much cheaper one to deal with. The arm is dead even with my springs.





I was also slightly worried about the hub sticking out too far because of the HUGE offset of the H1 wheels, so Adam (99GrandTJ) and I installed the new ball joints and greased the wheel bearings and installed the drivers side knuckle and new (to me) lockout. The lockout is flush with the face of the tire, not ideal, but WAY better then I expected.

Yes I will paint the wheels, but more important stuff to do right now.



 
#84 · (Edited)
We worked all day, but finally got the OBA re-plumbed. This is MUCH better. The connections at the front and rear are SOLID and do not move at all. Though I would like to replace the rear one with a solid brass one. This one jams easy it seems. When Adam built the regulator assembly he also added a air hookup under the hood that is more protected as a fail safe, all three can't fail right? I have to buy clamp mounts to attach the air lines to the frame rail, add an air cleaner, and it will be done.

I also would recommend if you haven't pull your inner fenders out on the rear and scrap them. I pulled the passenger side out and there was wet mud in there still from LAST July! The jeep has been under cover for a month or two now, and hasn't been driven in 6 months it still wasn't dry. It is now starting to rust in that area. This is shown in the last pic.















 
#86 ·
I tried to return my fried Optima under warranty and Sears stopped carrying Optimas. Probably because they are POS's. I upgraded to the new Die Hard Platinum. It is supposed to be more vibration resistant, faster recovery when drained, more deep cycleish etc... and it is a 4 year replacement on it. Only cost me $50 after the credit from the Optima.

I also tested the OBA and all works perfect. The new output hose doesn't even heat up, at least not for the 5-10 minutes it was running.

 
#87 ·
Spromart has it all!!

1 NIB Bikini top for the CJ2A

1 Big Bore J20 Steering box with the pitman arm I needed

2 CJ wiper arms

1 Tie rod (that I probably will modify to use as a spare)

Then a $20 credit at AZ got me my ball joints and a different Battery hold down -- the factory one pisses me off.

and next week I am hoping to have my knuckle back, and this week my SYE should be here.

I need to order my steering spacer from rockstomper though

 
#92 ·
I been waiting for this spacer to be made and the long 5/8" stud kit to arrive for 2 weeks now... Finally can start getting the steering together... The spacer and H1 arm are a tight fit, so the caliper bracket/spacer will need some clearancing, it is shifting the spacer just enough the rear stud won't go in.

As soon as I put this stuff on and install my power steering box I can get my drag link installed.







 
#93 ·
Got a LOT more done today, ordered my calipers, started shortening the rear driveshaft, installed the front driveshaft, welded up the skidplate, installed the skidplate, partially welded in the drivers floor, installed the big bore J20 box

Need:
Brake pads, plumb brake lines, new rag joint for the steering arm, drag link, finish floor, paint, shorten rear shackles and re-gear the front axle. Then worry about some anti-wrap bar for the rear.











 
#95 · (Edited)
No it doesn't, This is exactly what I want. It will not get stretched and comp cut. I HATE the look of comp cuts and I would like to keep this streetable somewhat. It will get lowered in the rear when the rear shackles get re-done. The only thing it may get is flatfenders next year. The springs should settle in some more too.
 
#97 ·
Took delivery of some more parts... a few compliments of Spromart...

New Calipers


J20 PS hoses and steering shaft, brake pads, brake lines, and fluids



I may be able to move this thing around tomorrow if Adam and I rig up a temporary drag link :woot:

Adam has taken over the neighbors garage though for the time being... I hope it doesn't rain tomorrow..... :tonka:

 
#99 ·
Absolutely nothing went right today, broken tools, broken brake line, missing parts, AHHHH

All we have to show for working from 10:30-~4 is the front brakes mounted, and the front brake lines installed.

NEVER EVER EVER buy torx bits from Autozone. Piles of garbage.

My one pic for today.

 
#104 ·
I know I'll get a lot of flack from saying this but I bought a 1/2" drive set from harbor freight and they have outlasted my craftsmans and misc others I have. I expected them to break but even with the breaker bar on torx at the u-pull it the have not failed me yet.
 
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