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Vinyl wrap installer needed

2K views 38 replies 13 participants last post by  Herezja 
#1 ·
I'm looking for someone who may work for a company that does wraps and would want to do a little side work. I can get the high quality 3M wrap and whatever other materials may be needed, I just need it installed, or supervision/tips on how to install, at my heated shop. Not looking for companies that do it as there are plenty around me. I'm not looking to pay $1800 for a wrap on my dented up wrangler when i can get the materials for about $300. Sides, grill, hood, tailgate. The rest is being painted or is covered by armor. I think I could pull it off with some of the instructional videos that are out there but I want it to look better than I could do on a first try, but not a show quality job that one of the sign places could do. Will pay cash and I'm more than willing to make it well worth the guys few hours of time to help me. Tri city area, specifically Freeland. Thanks :thumb:
 
#7 ·
its not hard to do. If your doing a single color especially. I worked for u haul and the boxes are all wrapped. I caught on fast. By the time I was moved I could put a 26ft long 3ft wide strip on a riveted body without bubbles and wrap around corners and do the hood and door decals they came out with. Use a bondo spreader, Start in center of panel, pull small amounts of backing off at a time. If you do get bubbles an exacto knife or needle work to pop them and then smooth them out. I always put them on dry. Never used windex or anything like that but you could do it if you want. The whole time I always used 3m decals nothing else. I'm very far and busy or I'd come help.
 
#9 ·
I do a protective vinyl wrap for export vehicles, a clean and warm vehicle are paramount to the application of the wrap. We use a felt like paddle to smooth it out but we apply it dry. We also use something similar to an envelope opener to trim it.
 
#10 ·
Good info guys, thanks. I've watched a couple videos and it does look pretty easy to learn. And again, I'm not looking for a show finish, but don't want to waste the money either. I have radiant heat in the shop so it warms the objects and vehicles quite well. Maybe I'll try the hood myself and go from there. It's not a single color but the pattern doesn't need to match from piece to piece either really. I'm doing a camo pattern. I checked at a few places and all needed the jeep for a coupe, days and I really don't want to trailer it in the winter all takes apart. I can wash it right in my shop too.
 
#24 ·
I have only done a couple wraps, but have done vinyl graphics for about 12 years now. I have done some fairly large jobs. IT really isn't hard. Go to any sign shop and ask if they have some scrap pieces. Practice putting it on something flat, then try something curvy (a bowl, or bowling ball, etc). You WILL need a heat gun for sure. You have to learn to heat and pull (stretch) without messing up the pattern too much or getting it too hot and tearing/melting it.

I wouldn't start on the hood. I would try some easier, flat panels first. What will get you is compound curves. Like the hood, seems flat and just curves down on the sides, but in reality, it actually curves from front to back too (unless you are wrapping a willys). What will happen, is you will get an overlap there. Some guys, just cut it and overlap it. Personally I think that looks shitty, so heating it, pulling it, and forming it looks much better. I am by Flint so I am quite a ways away from ya to just come help and I am not good enough with wraps to charge you unless it turned out really well. I am going to wrap my TJ in the spring I think as well, then I will have a better idea how hard it is.
 
#27 ·
Great info! Where I'm concerned is with the stick, unstick, stretch, heat, ect around curves and compound corners. Since I've never messed with it I have no idea how it even works. Like how many times can you stick it and pull it off? What sets the adhesive permanently? How hot is too hot? How many times am I going to fuck up a large section and need to replace and how much extra do I need to order? You know, shit like that. :sonicjay:
Grand bland is only an hour away you know........
I have no problem paying for an experienced hand, even if you think you don't deserve it. Lol
 
#28 ·
You don't really, stick and unstick. I usually apply stuff somewhat wet. Just easier. Then you can stick and unstick all you want. The downside, is on the parts you have to heat....it doesn't stick as well when you need it to. Once it dries it will, but applying it can suck.

Like I said, practicing will help a ton to see how much you can stretch it and stuff. You'll learn quick how hot it can get, lol. I might be able to come up after the holidays. This weekend I am doing my trans in my TJ. Next weekend is Xmas and I have CPL class. Next weekend is new years and I have plans. After that I think I just have the snow run in grayling. If you aren't in a huge hurry.
 
#32 ·
This isn't happening until probably February. I have a ton of shit to get done first.
I have to ask, what material are you getting for $300?
It's 3m from a supply site. They have other brands as well. It'll be more than 300 also, probably about 450-500. You can get it in whatever size you want. For example, I only need the smaller 5x2 strips for the sides and tailgate, then one larger piece for the hood. Plus extra for screw ups.
The site that I'm looking at is metrorestyling.com
 
#33 ·
If it is printed material for an actual wrap, it will be far easier than a standard vinyl. Wrap material will have air release channels that will just about eliminate bubbles and wrap material can be "popped" (pulled/re-stuck) a few times without losing its ability to stick. It is much easier with a second hand to stretch for larger panels as well and a heat gun will definitely be your friend. For concave body lines, you can get a primer to help with adhesion as well, it *could* end up bubbling over time if you don't. Typically you would only want to use a soapy water solution for a traditional, non air channeled, vinyl and then squeegee the water out from under it. Even then, you don't want to do it too much.
 
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