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87 yota truggy-(UPDATE!!) front dovetail!

29K views 244 replies 23 participants last post by  974x4Taco 
#1 · (Edited)
I have started this build a long time ago, and it is taking way too long to finish. I am aiming to have it completely finished before the end of January.
Here is what I'm running.

1987 Toyota Pickup
22R from an 84, running 'pane, headman header, deleted ALL emissions and computers.
W56 trans from an 84
Marlin Crawler doubler 2.28 gears in both
84 front axle, 4.10's, lock right, Dirty 30's, Hi Steer, trussed and blingin.
87 rear axle, welded spiders, 4.10's.
cut frame 6" behind cab
All Pro rear springs for a 98 taco(going up front)
Trail-Gear t-case crossmember.
35" BFG KM2's
15" Trail Ready Beadlocks
T Max 9000 winch
85:1 crawl ratio
I also recieved some 5 points for christmas so now we will roll safely.

Here's the front axle ready to go in.


Header

Safety First!!!

Prior to blowing up the first engine. yota 1.1.

'pane is the only way to burn!


I am going to upload a TON more pics. Enjoy...
 
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#2 ·
Here's the Propane injection install progression.
Everything that came in the kit.

I had to buy a tank from a local supplier.

Regulator and Solenoid put together

Here's the mixer installed on the old engine.

Mixer and feed tube from the regulator.

coolant pipes for the regulator. They tie into the heater hoses.

regulator installed in truck

Solenoid wired up.

I have the ignition coil and the propane solenoid wired into this switch.

Here's the pressure regulator mounted underneath the tank.

tank mounted and fuel hoses ran.

I was a little skeptical at first, but this thing ran amazing!!! Better than it ever did on gasoline. starts up within 2 revolutions, no matter what angle the trucks at.
 
#3 ·
Here's some more pics from last nights progress.
New engine installed. cleaned up the intake manifold, eliminated alot of useless emissions junk.





I am buying the supplies to make my trans/transfer case crossmember this weekend.
 
#5 ·
messed with it last night until the furnace ran out of fuel oil. Then it got too damn cold!!!
I'm about 1/3 done with the tcase crossmember, and I finished wiring up my ARB compressor and Painless fuse panel. Now I have to find a good spot to mount my air toggle and light switches that is within reach when I have my 5 points on.
I then ran my air line to the bulk head fitting in the fire wall and tested my locker... It worked great but there is a small leak from the compression fitting on the diff. The part is 12 bucks and another 13 for shipping!!!!
I am going to post up some more pics later today when I get working on it.
 
#7 ·
Not yet. I hope to have it done soon. I am ordering the transfer case mount tonight and putting the trans in it this week sometime.
I did get the arb plumbed and tested it. It locked fine but the fitting on the diff is leaking at the brass insert. I have a new one on order.
I also finished putting the interior back together and getting rid of the oem parking brake handle.

Here's the skid plate



ARB compressor working...

... and the subsequent air leak
 
#9 ·
Looks good. Couple tips/suggestions:

1) As you complete your build, try to find ways to keep weight on the rear end, to keep it balanced, and for the rear to have traction/flex. Spare tire, spare parts, etc, I saw a major improvement in my old Toy after moving weight to the rear.

2) Plan to do some frame plating soon. Those interior rails just before the rear spring hanger are known to rot from the inside out and yours look to be doing so. Get a hammer and chisel, and start hitting that rust and it'll probably go right through the thin interior walls. I had two trucks (and 85 and 87) completely snap in half right there.

3) If you want to upgrade to the SR5 style cluster (factory 6 gauge with speed, tach, oil, volts, fuel, and temp), let me know, I have two of them in my garage, including the stock oil pressure sender needed for the gauge to work right...
 
#10 · (Edited)
I got a little done today. I mounted the tool box, finished the interior, and tinkered with the crossmember. waiting on the other bushings from ballistic.
Here's the tool box mounted up.


Ballistic bushings and tabs to hold it to the truck.

More measuring and checking clearance issues.

I have to grind down the top of the tube and drill a hole for the tcase mount bolt.
a
got the stereo wired up, cb, harness for the lights.
 
#11 ·
Well after many many many days it is finally almost finished!!!!!
we are in the process of buying our first house and that has taken most of my weekends.
I decided that the arb set up has got to go. too many things to break or screw up. So i will have a complete arb set up for sale in the future. if anyone is interested.

working on an Audi R8 V10 at work.

installing the bumper

cut the floor for the tcases.

Engine finished!

I will post the rest of the picks tomorrow.
 
#13 ·
Update pics

I haven't posted in awhile. New baby on the way and buying a house have taken priority. It is almost finished. I have the new front axle ready to go in when I get the chance to swap it. I also need some rear shock hoops bent up so I can mount the shocks.
Here are some poser pics from a week ago.

 
#15 ·
I'm finally starting to gather the parts for the rear 4 link and exo cage. I have the fully built front axle underneath it now.

I need much much more flex!!!!
here's some pics of the front axle.



the rear flex, not enough.
 
#16 ·
Here's what I'm thinking for the rear suspension. A double triangulated 4 link with skyjacker nitro shocks and 5.5" lift jeep zj springs. The springs have an 18" unloaded height and 180lb spring rate. If anyone has any ideas or other info it would be greatly appreciated. I am going to keep the wheel base the same and the weight in the back will be both propane tanks, a cooler and a spare tire. I'm going to be purchasing the parts within the next month so I need to pull the trigger on my suspension choice. My other option is to go with 16" 2.0 air shocks. :confused:
 
#17 ·
Did you do anything with the steering studs at all? With 35's you may be ok with stock stuff for a while but you will break the over time. Same deal with hub studs.

Truck looks good.
 
#20 ·
If you have the money for 6shooters and 12 arp studs that is prolly a good way to go, ditch the trunion bearings while you are at it. I didnt have the money for the six shooters so I built tabs and welded them to the steering arm and drilled the knuckle so I could ad a 1/2 grade 8 bolt as well as 4 arp studs per side. There are pics in my build thread.
 
#23 ·
thanks! i need a left front fender though. i also decided to go with some FOA 16" coil overs instead of the jeep coils. then im going to put the rear springs up front with new shocks. got the back half design done in a few weeks i will begin part collecting and plating the frame.
 
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