Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner

Another slightly more than mild XJ build

56K views 410 replies 47 participants last post by  lososjoyride00 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, after building a couple xj's and a couple samurai's I've ended up back in a cherokee. This time I'm trying to keep it mild for now so I can enjoy it and do some wheelin' :blah:


Starting out with a 2000 Sport.

Current specs.

3" Zone Offroad AAL lift kit
33x12.50x15 KM1's
15x7 (more on that later) Summit Racing D window wheels
1.5" DOM steering with 3/4 Ruffstuff Hiem joints.
Extended the rear bump stops 2.5"
Extended the front bump stops 3"
Started building a Winch Bumper.
Trimmed fenders
No rubbing


Soon to come
Long arms
Winch
weld on beadlocks (hence the 7" wide wheels)
Rock sliders
Roof sliders
Flat(ish) belly skid
HP front dana 30 with Truss
OBA


I had the 3" lift and steering installed on the Jeep for quite some time rockin' some stock A/ts. I finally found a good deal on some 33" BFG KM1s from another member on here. Ordered my wheels from Summit Racing and had them the next day :rock: which was just in time for me to get the tires mounted on them, and get the front fenders trimmed enough so I could pull out of the driveway without rubbing :teehee: After getting them installed on the Jeep I took it out for a little wheelin' trip to BigBChevy's house.








I had a blast over there, but after losing the rear fender flares and bumper corners I knew I had to trim the rear and extend the bump stops.

For the rear I took a piece of 2.5x2.5x3/8 square tubing and used it as a spacer between the unirail and factory bump stop. Sorry no pics of the spacer, but it no longer rubs, barely.





For the front I used some the same tubing and cut it 3" long and capped one end. Then welded it on the coil bucket on the axle end. Worked out pretty good but when at full stuff with the wheel turned to lock, it would rub on the infamous XJ Hump. Pic is at full bump.






I couldn't wait any longer, trying to find a HP Dana 30 so I just welded a Truss onto my LP Dana 30. Built it from 5 pieces of .25" plate and it is fully TIG welded on. Took me about 8 hours to weld the truss on, I don't ever want to truss a Dana 30 again :sonicjay: I tried to keep the truss as low profile as possible, but only time will tell if I like it.



Also added Inner C gussets.




The Jeeps now torn apart in the garage getting some more "body work" done. Will post some finished pics later.
 
See less See more
8
#3 ·
Only because it was much easier. I didn't have time to build all new mounts on top. I've had it out to the Mounds on the rocks and trails and I never really noticed it. I've also noticed that it helps deflect any direct hits to the control arm mounts. I did manage to get hung up on it once, but it was right below the pig and I feel I would have gotten hung on with or with out it.
 
#6 ·
Well, I decided to remove the Battery and intake "hump" from the inner fenders. I took the TNT customs route, but I built my own. Cost me about $30 so far for steel, bolts and paint. Still need to buy a new air filter.

So far I have finished the passenger side, just waiting for paint to dry so I can remount the battery and it will be done. I was able to remount the Fuse box/relay center, further back and rotated it 90*. Then I mounted the overflow reservoir in the stock location but turned it. I just used some self tappers to remount the Cruise Control Module to the vertical part of the inner fender (factory location). It turned out decent for only being able to bend it over the corner of my work bench.






I was able to reuse the stock battery tray with some modification and remount the Optima on an angle. This also allowed me to use the factory battery cables.



Fits great. Clears everything, even the hood.





Pics with fresh paint.






Now onto the driverside.
 
#9 ·
Finished up the driver side. I took a bunch of pictures but the SD card decided to not save any of them :mad: So you just get some finished pictures. I remounted the Computer to the new panel using the factory hardware. Also replaced the air box with a cheap-o filter from Autozone.






We've got clearance Clarence.



 
#10 ·
Looks good, but please stop taking money saving tips from Joe and use an actual hose clamp to hold your filter on instead of zip ties
 
#12 ·
Ordered up some parts from Summit Racing to rebuild the exhaust. My goal is to build it small, keep it up high, and keep it quiet.
1) Universal Resonator (14" long)



2) Universal Catalytic Converter (11.5" long)



3) Weld in 02 sensor bungs



If the cat. and reso. combined don't keep it quiet enough, i'll probably switch to a regular muffler.

Also started a T-case and Trans pan skid. Will post finished pics of those hopefully tomorrow.
 
#16 ·
Built a simple and cheap T-case skid. For now it just bolts to the factory crossmember and the "frame rail". I will eventually be building a different cross member out of .25" plate, that the skid will bolt to in the same fashion. To bolt the skid to the "frame rail" I went to my local ACE Hardware and picked up a set of 3/8s GM body bolts. They have a pointed tip so I was able to just drill a slightly undersized hole and screw them in.

GM Body bolt





 
#21 ·
MILD?????

lol

subscribed looks really good, I am just getting done with mine, its about 5" lift on 35's, hp 30 with lock right 4:88's and a 8.8 with LSD and 4:88's. Have been thinking about cutting the inner fender like you did. pretty straight forward.
 
#30 ·
Got my long arm parts in from Ruff Stuff Specialties.

2) 3/4x3/4 Heims, 5/8s bore. (uppers)
2) 7/8x7/8 Heims, 3/4 bore. (lowers)
2) Sleeved bushings (lowers)
1) 6' piece of 1.75x.25 DOM tube. (lowers)
1) 3' piece of 1.5x.25 DOM tube. (uppers)

I have enough rod ends to build a 4 link, but only enough tube to build a 3 link. Still debating on what I want. After some research, I went with some smaller tube and heim joints over the traditional 1.25 heims and 2x.25 DOM. My arms will be fairly short and I'm not running 1 tons and 40s on this so I don't think I will have a problem. They will save a little weight and not look as bulky under the rig.

 
#31 ·
Got a good deal on a new rear axle. 4.10 gears, LSD and disc brakes. Now I'm looking for a HPD30 with 4.10s.

Once I get the D30 I'll be building full length trusses on top of both of them. Rear will have integrated leaf perches and shock mounts, and the front will have integrated coil mounts and control arm mounts.




 
#33 ·
Haven't updated in a long time, so here's a little update.

I finally had time to build my 3-link front suspension, and so far it works great. I don't have any pictures of it right now though.

Mostly I've been wheeling it, and neglecting maintenance. Here are some photos from the last wheeling trip that shows the Jeeps current condition.






I hope to steadily post updates of the rebuild of this Jeep. Which will be starting with new fenders, hood, header panel, rear hatch, new rockers, and paint. Also the interior will be getting a scrubbing.
 
#38 ·
You might wanna look in to putting a piece of tube to triangular the ends of the bumper...........or if u hit something on the corner it will smash your fender again
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top