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Old March 8th, 2008, 03:27 PM   #1
ddeadserious
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Default Leaf Sprung 8.8 Swap

1. Find a decently priced 8.8, $250 or so is the usual for a complete axle assembly. Obviously find it in the gear ratio that you want, I chose 4.10's and regeared my front to 4.10 as well for the 33" tires I'm running. I'm sure I'll end up at 4.88's somewhere down the road.


2. Cut off the swaybar brackets and spring under leaf spring mounts. Fill any grooves you may have accidentally cut into the axle tubes with weld and grind smooth.


3. Drain the diff fluid(which could very well be the fluid put in there from the factory, i think mine was.)


4. Order a beefy differential cover from www.ruffstuffspecialties.com. You might as well order their 8.8 swap kit while you're at it.


5. Paint, seal, and install said differential cover:


6. Bend up hard brake lines, and I welded a 7/16" bolt upside down on the axle for the distribution block to go on to. I also mocked up the disc brake soft lines and welded 5/16" bolts in place for this near where the spring perches ended up. I used rear passenger brake hoses(the soft lines) for both sides, since the explorer drivers side soft line IS the distribution block on the explorer. I'm sure you could use this if you want, but I already spent money on my braided extended brake line. Don't have alot of pictures, but here you can see one of the soft line bolts welded to the tube.


7. Remove the old axle, which involves removing the 4 total u-bolts, the shocks, and brake lines/breather tube.


8. Place the spring perches on the 8.8 and install the u-bolts/plates and the shocks for position. Be sure to measure a few times to make sure it's all right with the correct pinion angle(about 2° below being straight at the transfer case if you have a SYE. If you're still running the stock slip yoke, the pinion should be pointed level with the ground). Tack on the perches and shock mounts on in the right position.


9. Remove axle and weld on everything for real. Also weld the tubes to the pumpkin as the tubes like to spin on these axles. This part kind of sucks.



10. Paint everything and make it looks pretty.



11. Install back in the vehicle permanently, and trim the u-bolts.





12. Bleed the brakes and put the wheels back on and take it for a test drive. Looks right at home in there.



A few miscellaneous notes:
  • The core charge for the calipers is as much as the caliper itself, so get some junkyard calipers for cores if possible.
  • To hook up the driveshaft, you'll need a flange adapter. The spicer number for this is 2-2-1379 and can usually be had for cheaper at drivetrain places than anywhere online. You'll also need 12 point metric bolts(12mm x 1.75 thread 12 point) to hook the flange up to the axle, the ford part number for these is N800594-S100.
  • This is a heavy axle, definitely don't try moving it around alone.
Hope this helps, feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Last edited by ddeadserious; March 8th, 2008 at 06:35 PM.
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Old March 8th, 2008, 07:25 PM   #2
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you steal our rbv rear axles and we steal your jeep front axles, all is well.

haha, i just got an 8.8 the other day and put 4.10 gears in it along with all new seals.
i paid $100 for it, but it came with 3.08 gears, no way that was going in my truck lol.
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Old March 12th, 2008, 06:50 AM   #3
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Great write-up

But, What did you do with your Brakes? (As in master cylinder)
Because you went from drum to disk. (Pressure is different)

And also did you put your sway bar back in?
If so how.

Thanks,
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Old March 12th, 2008, 07:05 AM   #4
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nice write-up mike.
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Old March 12th, 2008, 08:50 PM   #5
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Nice write up. What did you do for e-brake cables?
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Old March 12th, 2008, 10:14 PM   #6
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What was the reason for trimming the u-bolts? I would think the tire would hit the wheelwell way before the u-bolts would ever be an issue.....
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Old March 12th, 2008, 10:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster4.0 View Post
What was the reason for trimming the u-bolts? I would think the tire would hit the wheelwell way before the u-bolts would ever be an issue.....
lost his deep sockets?

Looks good Mike
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Old March 12th, 2008, 10:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel View Post
you steal our rbv rear axles and we steal your jeep front axles, all is well.

haha, i just got an 8.8 the other day and put 4.10 gears in it along with all new seals.
i paid $100 for it, but it came with 3.08 gears, no way that was going in my truck lol.


Quote:
Originally Posted by XJEEPBlack4.5 View Post
Great write-up

But, What did you do with your Brakes? (As in master cylinder)
Because you went from drum to disk. (Pressure is different)

And also did you put your sway bar back in?
If so how.

Thanks,
Haven't done anything with the proportioning valve, but the disc brakes work better than the drums. I'll expect a significant improvement when I do a WJ master cylinder/brake booster swap. Just waiting on more money.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=946581

Didn't bother with the swaybar, I don't even know how a stock rear XJ swaybar is set up, but I know it's darn near useless.

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Originally Posted by nate4d View Post
nice write-up mike.
thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Nice write up. What did you do for e-brake cables?
I don't even have an e brake handle inside my jeep, so therefore no cables, and therefore, I removed all the 8.8 drum e-brake crap that made the rotors stick. If I had(and may in the future) kept it, I'd have used the stock cables looped around with a u-bolt clamp thing, I'm sure you've seen it before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster4.0 View Post
What was the reason for trimming the u-bolts? I would think the tire would hit the wheelwell way before the u-bolts would ever be an issue.....
So my impact socket would fit on it. That's alot of thread to tighten by hand. It looks way cleaner anyways, those were long u-bolts.
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Old March 12th, 2008, 10:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjmichigan View Post
lost his deep sockets?

Looks good Mike
haha nope, there was just ALOT of extra u-bolt; too much even for my deep sockets. Thanks
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Old March 13th, 2008, 02:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddeadserious View Post




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Nice write up. What did you do for e-brake cables?


I don't even have an e brake handle inside my jeep, so therefore no cables, and therefore, I removed all the 8.8 drum e-brake crap that made the rotors stick. If I had(and may in the future) kept it, I'd have used the stock cables looped around with a u-bolt clamp thing, I'm sure you've seen it before.

Thanks I was just going to do that to mine. Kind of wanted to see how it worked out.

Oh if you ever do the U-bolt elems they come close to hitting the spot on the backing plate where the cables go. Well atleast when I measured them out with a tape measure.
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Old May 31st, 2008, 09:16 PM   #11
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Nice write up, I'll be doing this soon!
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Old June 20th, 2008, 05:19 PM   #12
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Default Good job!

Nice parts

We make the ubolts long so you have enough no matter what you are using, cutting off the extra is a breeze......Have a good weekend.
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