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Old February 29th, 2008, 11:00 AM   #21
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IT's http://www.nearbio.com/nearbio/mapper.php That the best one I've found.
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Old February 29th, 2008, 11:18 AM   #22
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My bio diesel place (A BP station) has a sign the it could be ither B5 or B20 or a mixture. I found that to be interesting.

And I love bio, well worth the extra nickel in my opinion!
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Old February 29th, 2008, 11:27 AM   #23
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what about issues with seals..on bio deisel ??
chip at blue chip deisel..says running bio -voids the warranty on his $1,900 inj pumps...becouse he see's the seals go bad from running bio..????

Or is that just a way to get out of warranty issues ??? Damn cummins inj pumps....
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Old February 29th, 2008, 11:35 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudbillyredneck View Post
what about issues with seals..on bio deisel ??
chip at blue chip deisel..says running bio -voids the warranty on his $1,900 inj pumps...becouse he see's the seals go bad from running bio..????

Or is that just a way to get out of warranty issues ??? Damn cummins inj pumps....
Bio hurts the new clean diesel engines but from the research i've done on old 7.3L powerstrokes there doesn't seem to be a problem.

hopefully bigcountrysg chimes in. I read a lot of his post over at powerstroke.org
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Old February 29th, 2008, 11:48 AM   #25
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7.3L love bio

new injectors don't
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Old February 29th, 2008, 11:57 AM   #26
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Running Bio in a 7.3L will not hurt it, niether running it in the 6.2L 6.5L GM, or the early d-max, also any of the Cummins Engines are ok to run it in.

From what I hear I would not run bio in an engine that was made 2008 or newer. Why because those engines are not designed for it. They are designed to run on ULSD only.

Also you can be taxed when buying off road diesel. If your intended use is for on road purposes then the tendant at the station you get fuel at will add tax to it.

When you buy off road diesel you have to fill a slip out stating you are not going to run it for on road purposes.
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Old February 29th, 2008, 12:11 PM   #27
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Commonly b20 or lower won't hurt the seals in anything, even the old 70's stuff. B99 is a diffrenet story. Think like this, there is chlorine in most tap water but it won't hurt you because its so diluted. The the pure stuff will kill you. This is true of some but not all vehicals, best to check and see what the manufacurer recomends. Most commercial fleet stuff is usauly pretty good about useing seals that will take a beating but I've heard of VW, GM and Ford having some problems with B99. Mostly small o-rings and such.
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Old February 29th, 2008, 12:54 PM   #28
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I got B20 a couple months ago on Ryan or Mound just off 696. I for one would never run a full tank of kerosene maybe a couple gallons at most to a full tank.
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Old February 29th, 2008, 05:34 PM   #29
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my old boss used to keep a 5 gallon can on the rollback, if he had any gelling issues, he would pour in the kerosene. he said it was cheaper than 911, and worked better as well.
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Old February 29th, 2008, 07:12 PM   #30
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Dont get caught with a full tank of kerosene, no rd tax, big fine



As long as their no RED DYE how would they know?
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Old February 29th, 2008, 11:39 PM   #31
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As long as their no RED DYE how would they know?
Kerosene, off-road diesel, and other fuels alike have red dye by federal law. These fuels are consider for off-road use only and are not to be taxed. I know when you go buy kerosene you get taxed. But you can buy kerosene and be tax exempt. Kerosene is not to be used as a fuel for vehicles. There for it is still dyed red.

I know you can buy kerosene that is not dyed how ever that is designed as a fuel oil for heating purposes.
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Old March 1st, 2008, 09:56 AM   #32
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Also be aware it may take more than a tank of fuel to get the die out of the system. Michigan doesn't check as frequently as a lot of states, but if checked, you might still show red even if your current tank is legal stuff. If you do run kerosene, you need to add extra doses of fuel treatment to lube the pump like mentioned earlier, but who knows how much you need if you do it more than once. An issue with bio, regarding earlyer diesels, is running fuel with sulfer for so long causes the seals to swell. When it isn't getting sulfer anymore, the seals want to return to original, causing pump failure. Might get a similar effect if going back and forth from new diesel to kerosene if the kerosene still has sulfer, but I think most new pumps and rebuild kits are safe for multi-use, but check to be sure. I'm not a mechanic, that's just how I understand the sulfer issue from my own research.
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Old March 1st, 2008, 11:52 AM   #33
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My F650 at work was running like shit, and we filled the fuel filter full of ATF and it ran better.
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Old March 1st, 2008, 12:08 PM   #34
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Run JetA and just add trans fluid to give some lube. Guys here at the airport run it all the time and never have a problem. Jet A is just a cleaner version of kerosene.
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Old March 1st, 2008, 08:23 PM   #35
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Run JetA and just add trans fluid to give some lube. Guys here at the airport run it all the time and never have a problem. Jet A is just a cleaner version of kerosene.
i hear that this stuff will make your diesel FLY, where could i aquire this stuff? im guessing not at the local fuelin' depot.
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Old March 2nd, 2008, 07:35 AM   #36
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Kerosene is just more refined/cleaner diesel. I prefer B20 for 8 months of the year. During the winter I run B2. The 24-hour fueling place here in Dansville has both year round. I would run B50 or B99 if they had it. They have the big rig pumps which is nice when filling 38-40 gallons.
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Old March 2nd, 2008, 03:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigcountrysg View Post
When you buy off road diesel you have to fill a slip out stating you are not going to run it for on road purposes.
Wow...they must not trust you then....I've never filled out a slip sating I wouldn't use off-road diesel on the road....
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