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Old November 5th, 2007, 07:59 PM   #1
gary
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Default Axle & Stering Questions for Jeep

I am building a CJ 7 with dana 44 front & 14 bolt rear. I was wondering what gears i should run with 38" swampers. Also what drive shafts & steering comp. should I us. Thank You

Spring Over
360 Motor
727 Trans
dana 300
44 from a 76 chevy

Yes I think cross over from my stock steering box. Trails & Mud

Last edited by gary; November 5th, 2007 at 10:28 PM.
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Old November 5th, 2007, 08:09 PM   #2
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What Axle?
I'm assuming a chev dana 44

If so steering what do you mean ?

cross over from you jeep box?

lift?

motor ?

trans?

DD?

rocks ?

Mud?
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Old November 6th, 2007, 12:25 AM   #3
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I think you're going to break that front axle.
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Old November 6th, 2007, 12:26 AM   #4
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I think PavementPounder is right.
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Old November 6th, 2007, 08:49 AM   #5
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Run 4.56 gears. That should give you a happy-ish medium for streetability and life of the 44 (the larger the pinion you can run, the better)

For steering, 1.5x.25 DOM tubing with ES2010R/L tie rod ends, 7/8x18 tubing inserts and jam nuts, and a set of high steer arms should do you nicely. This will require reaming of your stock pitman arm, but the tie rod ends will fit into the high steer arms or the stock knuckle locations fine (assuming you get the proper holes drilled/reamed in the high steer arms). If you run true high-steer, there will be no need to run the larger 'draglink' ends because it will be nearly flat. I am running this exact steering setup on my XJ with waggy d44 up front, but am only using a high-draglink. The tie rod is in the stock location, and I could not be happier. I wish I could go full high steer though, because taking the carrier out of my axle requires removal of the tie rod which can be a pain if it has been in there awhile.

I also highly suggest Alloy USA shafts and joints if you are going to run 38's.
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Old November 6th, 2007, 05:37 PM   #6
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Thank You for your help.

What do you think I should us a dana 60 front. I was looking for one but everybody wants a fortune and I had 2 44's.
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Old November 6th, 2007, 05:41 PM   #7
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Assuming your 14-bolt is a SRW and knowing that you're running a Dana 300, the actual mate to your rear axle is what you want - a Chevy SRW D60.
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Old November 6th, 2007, 09:11 PM   #8
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Do you know any body selling one and who do I find out if that is what mine is.
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Old November 6th, 2007, 11:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary View Post
Do you know any body selling one and who do I find out if that is what mine is.
You don't know what your 14b came out of? Measure the distance from one wheel mating surface to the other.
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Old November 7th, 2007, 01:50 PM   #10
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Default Axle

I have 2 14 bolt I know the one is from a 76 chevy aloong with one of the 44's.
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Old November 7th, 2007, 02:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I have 2 14 bolt I know the one is from a 76 chevy aloong with one of the 44's.
Okay, then. What you want to find is a D60 front out of a K30 from the same generation as the 76 truck. Or, figure out the year of the other 14b if it works better and get the corresponding K30 front D60 for that one.
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Old November 7th, 2007, 09:42 PM   #12
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The mating surface from wheel to wheel is 66.5". I don't know a lot about axles but what does the SRW stand for.
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Old November 8th, 2007, 12:43 AM   #13
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Single rear wheel, as in not a dually and not from a Van.
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Old November 8th, 2007, 01:51 PM   #14
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If we aren't talking about rock crawling, and if you don't have a stupid heavy right foot, the 44 will hold up fine... especially behind an auto, stock 300 ratio, and 4 something to 1 gears in the axles.

For crawling with alloy shafts it will PROBABLY be OK. But it won't be rock solid reliable on 38" tires.

I have broken my 44 front 3 times. First time was a lockout (I was dragging a locked up rear off the road in front HI... getting it), second time was an outer shaft (had the weight of a big ass dumpster winched on my front end, trying to drag it backwards across the yard ), 3rd time was when I spit a u-joint cap out (stock shafts, no full circles, cryoed joints). I didn't actually break a shaft when the cap spit out either, and I wheeled about 2 hours before I actually noticed it.

I drove over this, on a stock shaft, with a u-joint missing a cap.
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Last edited by Monkeyevil; November 8th, 2007 at 01:57 PM.
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