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Old September 14th, 2007, 05:20 PM   #1
Drg racr
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Default Pulled The 4.0L And.....

So far I have found nothing. The flywheel is good, so I pulled the oil pan. I can't see where anything is banging around, and no shavings. I'll start pulling the main caps off Monday (I work all weekend). What is the torque on the main caps?
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Old September 14th, 2007, 05:31 PM   #2
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torque is three stage 40-70-90
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Old September 16th, 2007, 05:38 PM   #3
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Something was banging around in this motor, the thrust bearing has a small chunk taken out of it. I think the crank is toast, lots of small grooves. I can take it to my machine shop and see if they can determine if it's turnable.
The pistons are fine, cylinders fine (no ridge or wear), I really can't find a think wrong other than the crank.
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Old September 16th, 2007, 07:19 PM   #4
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Something was banging around in this motor, the thrust bearing has a small chunk taken out of it. I think the crank is toast, lots of small grooves. I can take it to my machine shop and see if they can determine if it's turnable.
The pistons are fine, cylinders fine (no ridge or wear), I really can't find a think wrong other than the crank.
Did it knock under load or at idle??....
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Old September 17th, 2007, 07:34 AM   #5
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It knocked both at idle and under load. It was worse under load between 2500-3000rpm.
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Old September 17th, 2007, 08:12 AM   #6
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It knocked both at idle and under load. It was worse under load between 2500-3000rpm.
If it was worse under load then more than likely what you were hearing was the main bearings....they tend to knock more under heavy load IIRC.

If it were me, I'd have the whole motor gone through while it's out....really sucks when you put it back in and 5k later something else is smoked.
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Old September 17th, 2007, 10:34 AM   #7
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I'm guessing here, but could this be a result of vibration? There's spots on the main and rod bearings that are down to the copper.
Still, what would make it knock? How about the harmonic balancer or the torque converter?
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Old September 17th, 2007, 11:10 AM   #8
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I'm guessing here, but could this be a result of vibration? There's spots on the main and rod bearings that are down to the copper.
Still, what would make it knock? How about the harmonic balancer or the torque converter?
Hopefully someone else will post up here, as I'm not a genius when it comes to internal stuff...I can tell you basics, but diag wise I'm not an ace (but not ignorant either).

I would think that, over time, if the motor was severely out of balance that it would cause excessive main bearing wear. However, I really can't see it causing uber bad rod bearing wear........like I say, hopefully someone will pipe in here
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Old September 17th, 2007, 12:01 PM   #9
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I'm thinking of just eliminating all lower possibilities by getting a reman shortblock. Just parts alone will run me around $550, then there's machine work, a new crank and rods. I think I can spend about the same amount and buy the shortblock already assembled.
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Old September 19th, 2007, 02:11 PM   #10
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Drg racr,

Do yourself a favor - load the short block and heads ( have the heads checked too) up and go see Rick at Chucks Engine 38164 Executive Dr. Westland MI 734-727-1760.

They have built hundreds of these over the years. Rick will set you straight.

Have you looked at the cam bearings ? Seems I remember some of these would spin - though I could be thinking of the 2.9 engine.

The big money for these engines is the lifters - they are a roller design but have a pressed in guide pin vs. the other Ford/GM/Chryco that use the external guide ( there isn't enough room for the external guide on this 60 degree V design engine ).

Hope this helps.
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Old September 20th, 2007, 08:05 AM   #11
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I'll check them out, thanks.
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Old September 20th, 2007, 08:22 AM   #12
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Is this an Explorer motor? What year? Some were notorious for timing chain tensioners (sounded like a knocking).
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Old September 20th, 2007, 09:14 AM   #13
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91-94 ohv...........(the SOHC 4.0Ls are bastards for timing chains and guides)
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Old September 21st, 2007, 09:03 AM   #14
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This motor has the timing chain tensioners. They look fine, but I can't really tell when they go bad. When I pulled it, there was still good tension on the chain.
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Old September 21st, 2007, 01:36 PM   #15
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Well, the machine shop said hat the crank is OK, the worst wear is .002 on the journals. There are fine lines, but they're not bad. He said I "could" run the crank as is, but I won't get 150000 miles out of it like a new one would.
Now, a crank will cost me $260, rings, bearings, oil pump, timing set and gaskets will run me another $365.00. After taxes, it's about $650 or so. Then, I still have to assemble it. I can get a reman engine for about $1200 longblock, or $700 shortblock. I have to decide what I want to do. I'm going to keep this Explorer till it rots. I have too much in it to sell now.
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Old September 21st, 2007, 04:11 PM   #16
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I do not know what shape the rest of the bronco is in, but I can tell you that chasing too much money with even more money is not always the best solution. It is amazing the deals out there right now in Michigan. There have been a few deals by fellow employees that would make you down right question spending 700-1200 on a motor alone. Then again if you feel the car itself is worthy of the new motor than go for it.
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Old September 23rd, 2007, 02:27 PM   #17
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I do not know what shape the rest of the bronco is in, but I can tell you that chasing too much money with even more money is not always the best solution. It is amazing the deals out there right now in Michigan. There have been a few deals by fellow employees that would make you down right question spending 700-1200 on a motor alone. Then again if you feel the car itself is worthy of the new motor than go for it.
I agree with your statment but at the same time i don't. If you purchase a used engine or vehicle off someone else, you do not know how well they took care of the stuff. If the jeep/truck is built, you do not know how well it was built. You can look at it but if they rebuilt the engine, trans, axles, and such....your not sure how well it was put together or if it was just halfassed.

Sucks you just can't take a persons word on," Oh yeah it was just rebuilt 5k miles ago. Ran great when pulled. I trust the guy who built it that i would give him the keys to my house with no problem." Yes I have been told this buy a seller.


As for chucks engine service, I had Rick do the work for me. I went up with some cams and pistons in mind and he recomended a cam i never thought to look at. Told me to go with sealed power pistons insead of KBs since the KBs have a shorter skirt and produce rod knock when cold. Good guy
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Old September 24th, 2007, 08:01 AM   #18
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Thanks for the input. I know there are some killer deals here in MI, but I just bought a 2WD Blazer for highway driving, so my major cash is tapped out right now. If I can get the Explorer to last the winter, I'd be happy. It's a rock-solid body, nothing else wrong with it but the knocking. I might just put new bearings and rings in it, then call it good enough for winter. THe lines on the crank won't hurt anything, they'll just hold more oil. :)
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