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Old July 25th, 2007, 10:09 AM   #21
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nope 3/16 plate steel, as far as axles; I just picked up 3/4 ton 44 front and a 60 rear 4.56 gears for 175.00
thats good to hear, just remember; its only as strong as the weakest link
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Old July 25th, 2007, 10:20 AM   #22
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great! you spent more than what a dom would have cost! how strong are your link MOUNTS?

thats fantastic that you overbuilt the shit out of your lower control arms, now how about the rest of the truck?

balance and weight conservation are key
figure out the cost of DOM, plugs, brackets, coils, springs, shocks and brakes and let's see who's is more expensive. As far as I see it, most of you can talk alot of bull, but ther's a few who can back it up. My geometry is correct, as I'm the 3rd in my club that has this set up; I'm just cheaper and stout. With 1000.00 mortgage gotta do what cha gotta do.

The frame rails are boxed 3/16" upper arms 2" soild also with 2.5" johnny joints off old lift. The only concern is with the full time case-the next to go.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 11:05 AM   #23
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figure out the cost of DOM, plugs, brackets, coils, springs, shocks and brakes and let's see who's is more expensive. As far as I see it, most of you can talk alot of bull, but ther's a few who can back it up. My geometry is correct, as I'm the 3rd in my club that has this set up; I'm just cheaper and stout. With 1000.00 mortgage gotta do what cha gotta do.

The frame rails are boxed 3/16" upper arms 2" soild also with 2.5" johnny joints off old lift. The only concern is with the full time case-the next to go.
the only price difference i see is the dom/tube adapters vs. solid/tapped (if you choose to use adapters) having already machined the links for the JJ's i dont think it would be that much work to make some tube adapters to weld in.

to each their own i guess, everyone has diferent build theories.

you are correct, I know nothing about design or material choice.

post some pics.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 12:45 PM   #24
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95geo sucks at fab work.

I am assuming this is for a TJ? why do you need 11" of lift?
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Old July 25th, 2007, 01:07 PM   #25
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95geo sucks at fab work.

I am assuming this is for a TJ? why do you need 11" of lift?
He's good at working on stock sami's.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 01:27 PM   #26
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95geo sucks at fab work.

I am assuming this is for a TJ? why do you need 11" of lift?
Maybe they are 11" longer than stock? That was my thought.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 01:36 PM   #27
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Maybe they are 11" longer than stock? That was my thought.
I could be persuaded to believe that.....so rockrat? what is it?
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Old July 25th, 2007, 01:55 PM   #28
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No, it's for a '97 Grand Cherokee.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 02:14 PM   #29
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I'll be able to clear 37" 's, but will be staying with 35's. My wife is 5'4" and she doesn't want to use a rope ladder to get in. A friend of ours has an XJ with a similar lift; but his is more centered(too flexy), he's the white XJ at the last Four Wheeler Top Truck Club challenge"team foster"
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Old July 25th, 2007, 02:54 PM   #30
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We build ours from .120 wall DOM and tig all connections. I have never seen anyone including Aaron Brown use solid steel for suspension.
My uppers are 1 1/2", 1/4" wall DOM

My lowers are 1 3/4, 3/8" wall DOM

I bent my lowers on the maiden voyage....
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Old July 25th, 2007, 02:59 PM   #31
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nope 3/16 plate steel, as far as axles; I just picked up 3/4 ton 44 front and a 60 rear 4.56 gears for 175.00
3/16 is sheet not plate

Did ya box the lca mounts in?
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:14 PM   #32
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My uppers are 1 1/2", 1/4" wall DOM

My lowers are 1 3/4, 3/8" wall DOM

I bent my lowers on the maiden voyage....
how long are your lowers? this has a huge factor in it.

my uppers are .120 and my lowers are .25, nothing has bent.

i wouldnt go any lighter but also not much heavier. with that much material a fabricated 3/16-1/4" control arm would be the next step, that way you can design for the forces that it will be seing rather than having the same strength in every direction when it isnt needed.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:30 PM   #33
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3/16 is sheet not plate

Did ya box the lca mounts in?
if you mean did I use a skid plate, then yes. Before the L.A. I ripped off the stock on some rocks; these went on and I hit the same trail with minor scratches evident.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:36 PM   #34
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how long are your lowers? this has a huge factor in it.
I think either 34 or 36"

I'm still running it as is...
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:45 PM   #35
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My uppers are 1 1/2", 1/4" wall DOM

My lowers are 1 3/4, 3/8" wall DOM

I bent my lowers on the maiden voyage....
Was it bent somewhat smoothly, or kinked/dented?

FYI, 2.0" x 0.25" is about 15% stronger than 1.75" x 0.375" wall, in a bending moment, and almost 1 lb lighter per foot. Diameter makes a HUGE different in bending moment.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 03:57 PM   #36
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Was it bent somewhat smoothly, or kinked/dented?

FYI, 2.0" x 0.25" is about 15% stronger than 1.75" x 0.375" wall, in a bending moment, and almost 1 lb lighter per foot. Diameter makes a HUGE different in bending moment.
but has trade-offs because it is also easier to dent.

what is the ideal size to stength to weight tube for control arms?

7075 solid 2"?
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Old July 25th, 2007, 04:08 PM   #37
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but has trade-offs because it is also easier to dent.
Yeah, thats why I asked how they were damaged.
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Old July 25th, 2007, 05:25 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
Was it bent somewhat smoothly, or kinked/dented?

FYI, 2.0" x 0.25" is about 15% stronger than 1.75" x 0.375" wall, in a bending moment, and almost 1 lb lighter per foot. Diameter makes a HUGE different in bending moment.
smooth, not dented
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Old July 26th, 2007, 11:10 AM   #39
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my bad, the mounts are 1/4" . Anyways, I have to redo my steering; binding up and giving me attitude. Since it's just for the trails, it will be pipe with rod ends and yes I'll measure everything twice first.
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Old July 27th, 2007, 10:25 AM   #40
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I've got the rig back will post pics soon.
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