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Old May 13th, 2014, 06:43 PM   #21
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I have spent most of last night and 3 hours today calling tech lines/researching online what it would take to run the stock "simple" HEI with the orange engines cam/heads.

Basically, I would need to change the HEI gear to composite(the difference is less then $30 and worth not taking the chance), change the springs to match the cams advance curve, change the vacuum canister to a adjustable one, adjust the initial to around 12 degrees, lock the distributor, rev it until it sounds like I am shaking a paint can while adjusting the timing to lessen that "breaking" sound, switch out springs "guessing" until I have the engine's pinging is gone throughout the rpm range.
The benefit of all this screwing around would be the ablity to get the wear parts at any local parts store, less clutter/amp leaks, no stinking control box to worry about frying, and lower cost.

Or I could use the single pickup "allstar" mechanical unit with a MSD box/blaster like the previous owner did. It is not cheap with me now tripling my $500 budget for the long block swap. But, compared to the above "guess and hope method" it just makes sense.

In the long run replacing the clutch/flywheel was needed soon anyway. I just did not ''feel'' any rattling or smell burning due to not really getting on the truck during testing. The avs carburetor was worth every penny and something I planned on purchasing anyway, and while I am very resistant to adding any type of computer to this old girl. It will all be worth it once I get this thing tuned properly.

The distributor had to be pulled anyway to install the engine while connected to the trans. I will gladly trade locating TDC while the engine is in the truck then kicking the heck out of the trans from under the truck.
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Old May 26th, 2014, 11:18 PM   #22
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I stuffed the powertrain in.



I spent a good amount of time checking to make sure I had the distributor in the correct previous location rotating the engine a few times.


Shiny junk


I decided to mount the box inside the cab under the dash where I would not need to think about it. After marking the spots I made myself a tool and punched some holes into my firewall.



Once the radio is in the box won't be noticed unless someone peeks. The rev limiter can still be accessed easily at this point. Later I will need to pull the radio to turn the dials.



The only one that will be seen is the upper right one once I am done.


I taped the buttplug down to keep it from wandering off. I don't know why they don't just make it with a male end.



The box is directly behind the coil. The only wire that was left stock length was the 12 volt power. I like short wires and clean connections to avoid leaks.




I bolted up the AVS carb and went about making a bracket.
I am cheap at heart and don't see any benefit in paying for some flimsy bracket when I can make a better one out of the old bracket.


I played around a bit and eventually decided to mount a 6" vertical bolt in the one where the small shiny bolt is currently. Later I mounted a brace in the open hole which connected to the large bolt.





Positioned it.


Cut in these two spots.




Which gave me this.


I bolted that down and it worked good. But I decided to brace it some more. I had this left over



Flattened it, trimmed it, and then bent it 1/4 an inch so it cleared the valve cover.


The end result looks nice and is very stout with multiple stamped bends left in.



This is the 3rd rats nest of wiring I have found where the ends were connected to nothing.



I need to remove and test the fuse box and figure out why I no longer have any power to my key on accessories. Once I figure out where the working key on leads are I am going to simply the harness. I should end up with the final rats next and eliminate any chance of leaks.


Everything is hooked up at this point except for the key on leads. I will rewire the harness, do the timing, adjust the carb, and will be ready for this thing to hit the road some time this weekend.
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Old June 8th, 2014, 10:37 PM   #23
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I found the correct wiring and key onleads and had some run on issues. I ran all the power through the key on leads and had everything working then the box fried. I bought a new box and hooked it up and have it working great. I adjusted the timing then began bolting everything back up.

I cleaned everything up and then began working on a cold air system.

After a bit of online research I hit the junk yard and was very lucky to come back with this for $10.



It bolts down perfect to the AVS carb.



I used my old duct work and trimmed it a bit to slide onto the new intake. I then went out and snagged a 4" filter and it fit onto the duct work perfect after a bit of trimming.



Later on I may use this existing hole for a warm air port off the exhaust or something else. For now I simply plugged it with masking tape until I can find a rubber plug.




It does sit a bit high. I have it angled so it misses all of the supports except one. I got on the truck hard with a slight later of grease on the hood and it never hit. I still plan on trimming one the hood support slightly at a later time in case one of my mounts wears out.



The cone just sits on my wiring and is sandwiched against the old air port behind the grill. I plan on adding a small heat shield later due to the cone being within 3 inches of the radiator. With $50 invested and only one bolt holding down the entire system I am happy with how it turned out.



After the hood was on and I was sure the new intake was not going to cause any major issues I hit the road. The truck handles the same as before. The new clutch feels great. I need to drop it off at a shop and have them tune this thing. With Youtube tuning knowledge only I am close to having this thing running perfect. But, I am sure a experienced shop can squeeze some more power out of this old girl.
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Old June 16th, 2014, 08:38 PM   #24
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I got this thing running great. I admit I beat the snot out of it. As a result the valve cover seals started to leak at high rpm's. I shoved some new ones in, wiped down the engine, and found a dirt road. After confirming the limited slip and new clutch perform flawlessly I headed back to the house. In the morning I found a few drips under the truck. After half a hour searching over the engine turns out I had a new leak in front of the oil pan.

Pulling the pan was easy as heck. I just crawled under and began pulling bolts. I love how easy these old trucks are to work on. The pan was leaking right above the missing orange paint on the pan.



The pan had a dent where the dark spot is which raised the seal sightly. I don't know if it was causing the leak. I smoothed it out with some 120 grit sandpaper and evened out the rest of the pan to provide a good seal.



No metal or any indication of flakes inside the pan.



Look a tray.


The current paint was flaking off so I sanded it down and shot it with black. The black pan blends in great with the rest of the underside of the truck. I left the bolts orange and now the underside of this thing is clean.



I beat on the truck for a few hours and killed 8 or so gallons. I have found the battery has needed to be jumped to move this thing for the last few days. I brought the battery and alternator to the local parts store. Turns out the alternator was not charging much of anything with me basically running on the batteries reserve and luck. I left the store with a new battery, new alternator, and the old battery. The red top is pushing 6 years old and will spend the rest of it's life in a lawn tractor.
Shiny new parts;



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Old July 1st, 2014, 07:21 PM   #25
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The exhaust on this thing kept finding new places to leak. Mostly out of those junk doughnuts from shaking. After my 3rd set I decided to toss the entire system.

I had these sitting in the shed collecting dust for I don't even know how long.


I hit up the parts store, gas store, and muffler shop walking away with bent pipes, high temp paint, 100 feet of wrap, and a easily removable starter cover.





I think they are coated. But, without knowing for sure I am going to cover them in wrap for heat protection. After a few hours I had this



I bolted up the headers then began playing around with the pipes I tacked this one down



Notched the pipe then T'd it into the other one.



I tacked the two together then welded it to the old exhaust.



I yanked it out and finished welding everything complete.



I have the drivers side sitting a 1/2 an inch below the passenger side. This is to make it easier to remove the oil filter. The passenger side sits directly below the starter with around 6" of clearence letting me drop the starter on the pipe against the block for easy removal. I did not everything being all shiny so I covered the exhaust in the remaining 50 feet of wrap before painting it in black. This is mainly to protect the starter from heat. My camera sucks. But the cross over pipe sits 3" behind the transmission yoke to make it easy to reach the drive shaft bolts. But if for some reason I blow a u-joint the cross over will catch the prop shaft and save the yoke. The clutch can still be changed without removing the exhaust.





Shaking being the cause of the doughnuts going out I made sure to relocate one of my rubber mounts. The exhaust is now very rigid yet does not vibrate.



Before I get grief about it being open know that I still need to get a frame mounted side tool box. Once I acquire that I will have a pipe attached to this with a 90 that will kick out behind the tool box.

It is far from perfect and I would not want it to be anyway. It is very quiet when idling yet makes a very dominant sound when I get on it. It has drone of course. I T'd the exhaust for freaking sake. It is not anything you feel though and I am happy.

With all this being said I see myself ripping this out if I get a deal on some full length headers or entire exhaust from a part out. Right now it is quiet and works.
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Old July 3rd, 2014, 04:07 PM   #26
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Sure would have been nice to see some of this time, money and effort put into the buggy. This is going to be a very nice compliment to the buggy. Will this be a tow rig for the buggy? It seems like you are taking all the necessary steps to making this a good tow rig for the buggy. The buggy is going to be pretty heavy and this thing could handle that type of weight just fine. I know you plan on having the buggy very road worthy, but just incase you decide to change your plans on the buggy, this could be used to get the buggy around to different buggy worthy spots. Why do you have different savings budget for the buggy than any other project? Anyway, this looks real nice.
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Old July 8th, 2014, 12:45 AM   #27
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Yes, this is a tool to help build the buggy. The reason for such a large flatbed and me keeping the area under the flatbed open will come into play soon enough.

This was the first weekend that I did not work on this truck and continued assembling with the buggies power train.
I need to have a part machined. The details are in the wanted section. That won't matter much until I am able to finish the flatbed thing I hinted on above. None of that will matter until I have the tires and rims. Then I can bolt them up, get an exact measurment, narrow the axles, position the completed drivetrain, and make some progress on the pile.

Right now I am just making this truck roadworthy. The buggy will get worked on soon enough. It is not something I am rushing. The parts that need to be custom made like the axle shafts and this coupler will. The parts that I feel I can do myself will. I refuse to compromise on what I have envisioned. That will take a fair amount of cash which will take a fair amount of time when you consider I pay everything up front. Yes, I have budgets for things. Now, that the power train on this truck is in better condition I can shove more cash into the buggy build.

Believe me I would love to drop 9k in parts on a card right now and have the buggy finished in a month. I just can not justify doing that. So, I save up little by little until I can. If that does not please you I am sorry.
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Old July 8th, 2014, 09:05 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerial View Post
Yes, this is a tool to help build the buggy. The reason for such a large flatbed and me keeping the area under the flatbed open will come into play soon enough.
For the record, the suspense is literally killing me. I can not wait. Your projects usually top them all when it comes to creativity.

Believe me I would love to drop 9k in parts on a card right now and have the buggy finished in a month. I just can not justify doing that. So, I save up little by little until I can. If that does not please you I am sorry.
Apology accepted.
I am going to the Wanted section now.
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Old August 11th, 2014, 08:51 AM   #29
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I got a pile of parts to finish up the rest of the break system.



Remove one bolt then knock this spacer out and the caliper becomes free. These are so much faster then screwing with pin calipers.



The old caliper gaskets looked close to breaking on me



Yanked the hubs off to check the bearings. Everything looked good so I repacked them and installed.



I like these calipers with the inner simply sitting in place.



I slid the hub and caliper on. Bolted on the wheel then did the other side in about 15 mins.



I bolted on the master and bled the breaks. I also removed that dang 90's trailer break controller that was tied into the hydraulic system.



Breaking is now very impressive. I went out and did some 60-0 emergency skids with the truck not pulling one way or the other. After doing 2 I could not see skids from the fronts. I knocked it up to 80 and turned a bit during breaking which finally left a visible skid from the front wheels.

The 60-0 (unloaded) is now easily under 100 feet with a good amount of smoke. I normally never hit the breaks in that manner, coasting and lightly applying the breaks off and on most of the time. But, better to know and test in a non emergency situation then to find out in a emergency one.

The most important part (improved breaking) of this truck is finally finished.
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Old August 24th, 2014, 01:29 AM   #30
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Well, the current "built" 350 just is not producing enough torque. I could toss in another hamster wheel or..



I received everything in the picture along with the starter, carb, inspection cover, motor mounts, and bags of labeled bolts.

It is a 72 Buick 455. It is one of those High Torque light weight high nickle content blocks I am falling in love with. The guy said it had cam/head work and just needed the carb bolted on and the timing set to run. For the $350 I paid I will roll the dice and get it running in the shed to make a weekend swap out of it. With a bit of work I hope to have it in before the snow flies. I can not really fit in anyone's garage with this 96" wide bed. So, if I don't have it in within 8 weeks it will need to wait till spring.

As it sits right now to make this swap happen my shopping list contains a rear sump oil pan, Buick flywheel, pilot bearing, front motor plate, general gaskets/filters, exhaust flanges/gaskets, entire new larger exhaust, and Misc tune/dress up items that can be added when it is in and tested.

My objective in the next 10 days is to get this thing put together with the parts I have and the timing set up to where this runs good on blocks.

I took my time getting it out of the trailer and within a hour I had it sitting on blocks that stretched across the engine hoist legs.

I raised the back up enough to install the starter then installed a piece of plywood on oil pan so the starter would not be resting on the block.



The carb looks clean throughout and everything feels like new. I will toss it on and if it turns out to be bad I will send it out to be rebuilt professionally for 3 hours labor+parts as I hate rebuilding Rochesters.



I ran some wiring, shoved the fuel lines in a container full of fresh gas, and tried to crank it over. It cranks but just once like the starter is binding and with people egging me on with a previous commitment I called it a day.



There were two shims in the bag and I will try using 3 before trying to bolt up the small block mini starter or Cadillac starter that I have. If none of those work I am looking at another starter. At least I have a core.

I just finished up the bed lights tonight.



The 4 corners and rear outer in the middle of the bed have running lights with the 2 rear inners being additional eye level turn signals.
In the very center of the bed I have a single red light that only comes on during breaking. When I hit the brakes the two middle outers come off and the center red one illuminates making the red stop indicator more known.

These lights are additional to my fully functional step side style lights below the bed and are simply meant to be a better means of communication.

With the bed lights being eye level on most cars I felt that LED lights would be annoying to other drivers. For now I just went with cheap lights that I can replace easily.
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Old August 24th, 2014, 09:17 AM   #31
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Transmission?

Last I checked, buick/olds/Pontiac shared bell housing patterns. Chevy was all alone.



Quote:
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As it sits right now to make this swap happen my shopping list contains a rear sump oil pan, Buick flywheel, pilot bearing, front motor plate, general gaskets/filters, exhaust flanges/gaskets, entire new larger exhaust, and Misc tune/dress up items that can be added when it is in and tested.
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Old August 24th, 2014, 01:43 PM   #32
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I have a couple of BOP to GM adapters in the shed. The sm465 will bolt right up once I align one of my aluminum bells. I can even use my current low mileage clutch with the Buick flywheel.
This truck currently uses almost twice the fuel on the highway then on the back roads due to how I drive (coasting most of the time) and it is harder on the drive train. I enjoy the back roads anyway and I am a firm believer that if it can not run 80 it should not be on the highway. This pile has no need to ever get over 60 especially when I have a few hundred pounds on which happens bi weekly it seems at this point.

I have been playing around on the web for the last few hours looking to see if there are any timing woes like the oil pump rod/any type of retainer moving out of position when the dizzy is pulled which makes a headache requiring pulling the pump. I forget what angled dizzy engine does that. But, I am glad it is not this one.

As far as the motor plate goes I won't need to screw around with it. If I use 5.7 diesel mounts everything should bolt right up like a factory install. This was confirmed a few times on the hotrodders forum. I have the biscuits and steel laying around if it does not work though.
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Old August 24th, 2014, 02:21 PM   #33
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Any progress on the buggy?
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Old August 25th, 2014, 11:01 AM   #34
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Any progress on the buggy?
This thread is not about the buggy!!


But I want to know too.....
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Old August 25th, 2014, 05:44 PM   #35
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Ok, update on the buggy.

I went back and forth with a few places about a coupler. Short version is that I have had no luck up to this point. I have been emailing back and forth with northwest fab but have not received a definite quote yet.

The only other place that I know has a 35 spline broach is advanced adapters and I will be contacting them shortly. In the meantime to just keep my mind on the buggy I have been building a 1/2 scale model out of some 1x1's and fiber board I had laying around. It is just a representation and only to check for clearance. But all the important points are accurate.
After running the numbers a few hundred times the full size front axle will be 38.675" between the kingpins. When the 16r20 tires are turned lock to lock I have 27.6" of clearance between them. That gives me just 27" to fit the 4 link, 4 8" diameter airbags, steering box, front frame, 5" driveshaft, and that big chuck.
Now, I have drawn it out about 30 times now checking for travel and flex clearances and it all works on paper very well. But, I have the time over the winter and want to make sure so I don't waste any steel or cut the hard to find axle housing wrong.

Unless I discover an issue the thing will be 138-142" wb. Just under 203" long overall. 78" wide overall. Just under 7' tall overall. Have 53" tires with a full sized spare on board. 22" static belly height. 12 speed drive train with 3 overdrive gears. 5+ ton axles. Powered by a dual fuel 472. At a weight just under 7,200lbs. 48 state street legal"ish", and able to fit in the same spot as a full sized truck.

I am still saving to make this happen. I am currently working on the engine and putting the drive train together into the power train cradle over the winter. Once that is all together I will begin working on the axles some time next summer. I need to build my crane in there somewhere also. It is a long project that gets at least $100 tossed towards it every week. I am actually on track budget wise and finishing won't be until summer 2016.
I have talked about it enough at this point. I will update in the buggy thread when I get the power train cradle together.
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Old August 29th, 2014, 08:33 AM   #36
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Please post pics of the 1/2 scale model. Consider bumping up the completion date too. I bet you could increase your budget with a GL4X4 fun raiser for the buggy. This is by far one of the most anticipated builds on this forum and I know many people would contribute. I will donate.

BTW, dont foget to note that you already have most of the cage already built.
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Old November 9th, 2014, 07:09 AM   #37
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I drive 3 miles one way to work. Not, being the kind of person to waste fuel "warming up" a vehicle unless the windows are obstructed. I have had a bit of a issue with the truck not wanting to start come Friday night.
I have checked for drains and leaks. The electrical in this thing is about as simple as a circle track car at this point with the addition of turn signals and lights. When the key on power is shut off and the coil killed the only thing that still receives power is the headlight/flasher switch and those don't have any drain.

It is simply a matter of me not doing enough driving to "properly" charge up the battery. I think you need 10 Miles one way or something I read online.

With winter coming I will be charging the truck more. But, I still did not like the idea of the battery being low after 4 days of minimum driving calling for the need to charge it mid week. A second battery seemed to be the fix.
I will say due to my past experiences that I hate isolators. Most of the time they don't work, they can kill a battery without you knowing, and you have no indication unless you buy one of the multi hundred dollar ones that shows they are/are not working. Even with a battery running off a isolator I would only be increasing the capacity of the battery pack and not charging both batteries fully. I needed a reserve/emergency battery. One that could be used in the event the main battery is dead for whatever reason.
My fix was to install a second charging system separate from the main one. After reading on a few plow sites I had the simplistic wiring layout and after a bit of head scratching I found that I could use the bolt hole on the underside of the alternator bracket to serve as a main brace then build a bracket to hold the other side. It came out like this.




The alternator is flipped upside down and the pulley blades switched(after pict). The wiring was easy to get to from under the truck reaching up. My little bracket holds the alternator as well as serving as a bit of protection. The brace is just some 14 Gauge angle iron I had laying around that I tack welded to the alternator bracket. The setup is temporary as I will be replacing this engine in the spring. I know it looks ugly. It is just like the rest of the truck. Ugly but she works just fine for what it is. When I do the dual system on the Buick engine I will make that look pretty.

I also purchased some "heavy duty weather proof connectors, a 10 gauge main feed wire, and new 4 gauge positive and negative terminals. The entire system including the "new" re manufactured 65 amp alternator at under $50 ran me less then $100 with me using my 6+ year old optima.



I have been running it for 2 weeks now and in that time I found that The optima was not holding a charge. I headed down to NAPA who has a deal now where if you buy some washer fluid they take 20% off and picked up one for around $180 out the door and the charging system is working like a champ now.
Old vs new:


The thing came in handy for the first time this afternoon. I played around with the belts and ended up getting a 85 belt because no one seemed to have the 80. Well this afternoon I threw the belt and the truck died. I went and grabbed my jumper cables ran one battery to the other. Fired up the truck and drove the 4 miles to the house on the reserve battery. I borrowed a buddies truck and have the proper tighter 80 belt spinning now with a backup in the glove box.

Once the truck was up and running. I dropped a little under $200 into the 72 Buick's 1975 HEI system refreshing it (with quality parts). The thing had a really weak spark and it was on my list of things to do anyway to refresh the engine before spring. I look forward to firing it for the first time this afternoon.
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Old November 9th, 2014, 12:35 PM   #38
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I got the 455 running. It sounds very healthy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTNLByipwE8

and with Gas

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjuFHkWI0aQ



Long list of stuff to do still on this. But, knowing this thing runs means that the future parts will go into something good.

Last edited by cerial; November 9th, 2014 at 12:39 PM.
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Old November 17th, 2014, 12:55 AM   #39
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My bracket I made out of a piece of 14 gauge angle iron to hold the second alternator had a crack that was going to become a rip where I made one of the bends.

I ripped it off and decided to try out something I have wanted to try for a while. I went into the shed and grabbed some chain. I bent up a piece of aluminum hobby tube to give the shape then fed the chain through it. I checked it on the truck a few times then welded each link on 3 sides.

I then burnt through the 1/8" aluminum tube and removed it. I then welded it to the bracket and have the other side holding the alternator by passing through the final link.

Here is the final result.




The linkage is very light yet very strong. It should be just fine until March. The second alternator is held in place by one main bolt that locates it and a second bolt that just keeps it from moving up and down in the event of the main bolt loosening up. This chain linkage just holds that second bolt.
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Old November 17th, 2014, 05:45 AM   #40
littletrucker
I'd hit that
 
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Sounds like you just needed a new battery and not two alternators..
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