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Old August 4th, 2014, 07:37 PM   #81
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I'll keep an eye on them. Thanks for the reminder, since I peeled all those stickers off that tel you to check the lugs every 20 miles for the first 100 miles. :lol:
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Old August 4th, 2014, 08:35 PM   #82
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The quality of the UWS box was actually shit. This is the fourth box I got for this trailer. The other 3 went back due to quality issues. One was so bad the foam on the lid didn't even touch the lip of the box and the foam was 3/4" wide. This one has issues too, but I can't keep trading them out forever, so I kept it. I was told since Thule bought them, their quality has really went downhill. They probably fired all the experienced fabricators and hired noobs for half price.

I have two of the special sockets. One stays in the well in the trailer and one stays in the glove box in the truck. They're a little bit of an anti-theft.

Good idea on the tie bars, but they are unnecessary. And my wife would find a way to trip on them. Think about which my tires would put stress on the ramps when I drive on them. My tire would fall off slightly on the inside of the ramp if I was off center. The only thing I could do is push them outward. They could never be pushed toward the center. And those screws aren't going anywhere. 4 of those are what they use to hold down a single 5000# tie-town.

That does have me thinking now. I didn't think about the ramps tilting up on the outside edges and toward the center, which would destroy my walls. My tire would hit the opposite wall before I could get that far off center, but still, it could happen. I better sink some screws in the outside corners.


too bad on the box, sorry to hear it. mine is really nice and have had zero issues with it over the last 3 years or so.

that's also what I was getting at with the ramps. not only would it keep them pressed outwards, but could also help with tipping inwards.

Jim, all depends on where he got the spline lugs. we sell gorilla stuff with all aftermarket wheels and there are zero issue with them. the only thing that "could" be an issue would be the amount of seat area that is typically smaller on the splines compared to a standard acorn. some wheels require a larger seat area to torque properly. and also make sure you get the right degree taper.

for re-torque, at a minimum re-torque after 50 miles of driving. I would personally do it 2-3 times (so once every 50 miles) to be sure they seat fully
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Old August 7th, 2014, 06:16 AM   #83
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And last, I have to bitch. Looks like I have some caulking to do. :shaking: This isn't uncommon on the trim around the e-track. One big disadvantage to having this e-track.



The trailer is back at ATC today. I need to correct myself on this...... The two gaps pictured were left there on purpose for water to drain out of the e-track. There are some smaller gaps where the trim comes together in a butt joint, and they apologized for not sealing them and said they would go under the whole trailer and seal up any gaps they can see.

Also getting a wiring issue fixed. There was a communication issue between my salesman and ATC, so it didn't get done correctly. I was supposed to get a fuse panel inside the trailer and a single power wire to hook to the battery on the tongue. Instead, I got no fuse panel and 3 unfused wires hanging loose on the tongue. One ground wire, one wire goes to my stub wire by the door where I'm putting a 12V / USB splitter, and another wire that connects to ??? (it's supposed to tie the battery into the rest of the electrical system so the battery charges from my truck and so the lights work from the battery - but it doesn't work like that). Anyway, they're going to add the fuse panel and a circuit breaker for the charge wire inside my toolbox.
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Old August 7th, 2014, 04:40 PM   #84
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All better. I got the 12 volt / USB splitter installed too. Two 12 volt plugs + two USB plugs.









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Old August 11th, 2014, 06:41 AM   #85
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First tow last weekend, about 500 miles with just my buggy in it. Tows nice. It's really rough on the larger bumps on the road, much more so than my other trailer. Not sure if that is 100% the fault of the trailer, or if my new WD hitch setup may be contributing to it too. I makes the ride pretty bad on rough roads, but I can live with it. My wife said it feels like the rear truck tires are being bucked up off the road.

Found out how sensitive load distribution is. Even with all the crap in the cabinets, I need to have my buggy's front tires over the ramps on the floor. I moreless centered it across the wheelwells for one short portion of the trip, and it mad a big difference in a bad way. The steering wheel seemed really light and the truck wouldn't hold a straight line very well - way too sensitive to let your guard down while driving.

Got 12.2 MPG @ 70 MPH with the cruise set, which including resetting it a few times to try different things. Tried 5th gear the first tank, 6th gear the second tank. No difference, but it's a lot quieter in the cab in 6th gear. It was pulling 13.5 for a while on a long straight stretch, but as soon as I had to exit to get fuel, that went right back down near 12 from accelerating.

Having my smaller tires on, being in Michigan (not much for hills), having a more aerodynamically efficient trailer, and going 70 MPH instead of 60-65 MPH allowed the use of 6th gear that didn't work very well with my other trailer. I'm calling this trailer a solid 1.5 - 2.0 MPG gain compared to my last trailer, which I am very pleased with.

Buggy is easy to load - just keep the driver's tire about 1" from the door opening and everything lines up perfectly. There is about 1.5 - 2.0" of clearance on either side. It needs to sit a little further ahead than what you see here.









The shorter ceiling bit me when I wasn't expecting it. I can't back in or the back portion of the roof hits the ceiling. If I drive in forward, when the rear tires get on top of the ramp, there is about 1/2" of clearance with 25 gallons of fuel and zero clearance (maybe a slight interference) with an almost empty tank. With the back tires on the ramp and the front tires on the floor, it tilts the back of the roof up. A short roofline wouldn't have this problem.

A few reasons why.... the ramps were built with a little more clearance (height above the wheelwells) than I planned on, the only measurement I had to the buggy's roofline was with 39" Krawlers and now the 40" Trepadors are a little taller, and (maybe) when Wayne worked on my shocks, he might have change the ride height a little bit. And my cad model of my buggy was a sketch from a picture, not exactly accurate. So an inch here and there added up and made the difference between hitting and not.





That being said, I'm fine with the height the way it is and wouldn't have done it any differently if I had another chance. I did NOT want another 7'6" interior height trailer. I'll use a ratchet strap to compress the rear suspension a couple inches when I haul more than just the buggy and need to drive it all the way forward.
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Old August 25th, 2014, 06:18 AM   #86
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Got full quick. Front ATV is right at the tow hooks that are even with the cabinet and the RZR is within 2" of the ramp. This also proved to be a stupid way to load it. Not enough tongue weight and it didn't pull very nice. Still 12.2 MPG at 73-ish MPH. Loving the e-track!

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Old August 25th, 2014, 06:39 AM   #87
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Purdy
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Old August 26th, 2014, 05:18 PM   #88
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Purdy
Thank you.






Just to the trailer back from ATC again today. I ordered a bolt-on flush step and a 2" drop step showed up. :shaking: This wouldn't work for me because 1) it would have 5" below the frame and get hung up on shit and 2) it would make a 4" difference in step height from the ground to step versus step to inside trailer. So I called ATC and complained and was told they make all their steps this way so that they will work with trailers with drop skirting. :shaking: He said put it on and if you rip it off we'll fix it. I said if you'll fix it then, how about you just fix it now. :D

Anyway, this is exactly what I expected it to be in the first place. The two distances are within 1/2" of each other - perfect. And I only lose about 3" of ground clearance instead of 5". It's a nice step - aluminum with UHMW lining for easily sliding and gas struts to hold it in/out. The 2" drop step would have been stupid.





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Old September 1st, 2014, 07:04 PM   #89
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Getting toward the end of the modifications. Believe it or not, I had 6 hours of work into putting this shelf in. I won't go into it all, but it was a PITA to say the least. The idea was a little more storage so we could fit all of both our ATV gear in here, and we got it, even the chest protectors and Leatt braces.



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