|June 23rd, 2014, 05:39 PM||#21|
Join Date: 04-02-11
Location: Schoolcraft 49087
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
I found some that are counter bored for the center pin,steel
Probably gonna go that route
3rd generation jeeper
04 gmc Sierra 2500 crew cab quadrasteer tow pig
87 yj Laredo amc360/ax15/231 amc20/dana30 410s and truetracs
90s Wrambler efi 2.5, t5, built231HD (atlas soon),d44s with 4.88s and detroits
|June 24th, 2014, 08:17 AM||#22|
Join Date: 02-08-06
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Depending on the brand of lift, and the brand of shim, it may become necessary to drill the center bolt holes on the springs. This is not an easy job for many and frequently breaks drill bits. If you are not confident in doing this you will need to make sure tha the shims and springs use the same diameter bolt.
Personally, I would only run steel shims. I have never seem an aluminum fail, but it really isn't worth the risk to me. The shim MUST BE the same width as the leaf spring, and spend the extra $30 to replace the U-bolts. Standard axle maintenance rules apply: Tighten even, torque, drive a few miles, check torque, and if it is off figure out why. Then recheck the torque again after a 100 or so miles.
If you are going to make the investment into shim, I recommend making friends with someone at an alignment shop. Let them know what you are doing, and that it will take several trips (most will cut you a deal). A good shop will know that you are going for your desired caster, then correcting the camber if need be, and then the alignment.
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