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Old November 13th, 2013, 06:10 AM   #61
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Werked grate in Canada eh!! I was pretty impressed, had no idea you did this much work. I kinda LOL'd when the bolt came out of the front grill, so minor but kinda funny
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Old November 13th, 2013, 08:06 AM   #62
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Werked grate in Canada eh!! I was pretty impressed, had no idea you did this much work. I kinda LOL'd when the bolt came out of the front grill, so minor but kinda funny
Yeah, I was happy something went wrong, I would have been shocked if everyhing worked the first time!
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Old November 13th, 2013, 08:18 AM   #63
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I have a bottle of nitrogen, but no regs or hoses yet.

My shocks are 7100 bilsteins. 14 inch with res front and 12 inch without res in the back. Fronts were used, rear new.

Valving now:
front 275/78
Rear 170/60

It soaks up single hits great, on bumps I used to slam on he brakes and brace myself for the impact I can now hit without letting off the gas. Multiple bumps it fails, it turns to a brick and I bounce over hard. Thinking my rebound valving is too high and im packing either front or rear.

Im going to do some testing with a camera to see what is happening, but im going to revalve first. Online research shows a digressive valve shock recommended at front 161/72 rear 162/66. Mine are linear, so I'm going to drop the rebound in the front to 200/78 and leave the rear alone for now.
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Old November 13th, 2013, 07:50 PM   #64
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Shock valve shims. Type of steel listed is Sandvik 20c which is really just a standard cold rolled 1095 carbon steel that is heat treated and nice and flat. Hardness is spec'd out at 276ksi which is about Rc 55. Quench and temper at 600F.

Posted for reference.
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Old November 17th, 2013, 03:11 PM   #65
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Passenger front shock screwed up. Looks like the dividing piston o-ring leaked and let the oil side get some nitrogen too. Besides that, the used shocks all look OK. Hopefully I can get this O-ring soon, didn't plan on having to do that, wanted to test run next weekend.

Ordered a shock filling tool last week. I'm not too sure what I'm going to get. I called and specifically asked if the kit included the hoses, filler, and regulator. I said, if I have only the tank, will this include everything I need? He said yes, but for the price, I'm not too confident.
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Old November 17th, 2013, 03:17 PM   #66
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Shots under the hood. Some of the stuff I moved around.





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Old November 18th, 2013, 06:33 AM   #67
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I was about to dive into it (high line stock fenders) the other day, until I remembered you said you bought a narrower battery to make it work. I have a brand new battery and no other use for it so I am on hold for a little bit. Thanks for the pics! I might pull the trigger on this, but it is wheelin season for me now and I am trying to keep the thing drivable.
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Old November 18th, 2013, 08:37 AM   #68
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I dont know what the battery I had originally was for, but it was really tall and wider....about .75 both ways. I bought a new deka that is sized slightly smaller than the factory battery was and with that I had just enough room.

I think there is a writeup on here a guy did a highline and had a good description of what needed to be done.
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Old November 25th, 2013, 08:40 PM   #69
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First, I need to say, desert racing this Jeep is not going to do! It will never be as good as a rig with bypass shocks and hydro bumps!

So, looks like I need some work in the shock valving department! Going to a 180 rebound in the front made a big difference in how it rode generally. Made

a softer feeling ride for most terrain at normal trail riding speeds. Rock crawling it still feels stable and pliable, no noticeable changes.

But I think I have three areas of concern:
1)Rear rebound is too lightly valved.
2)Rear compression is slightly too soft.
3)Front compression needs to be increased.
4)Front rebound needs to go back up a bit.

What I feel is a "kick" from the rear, like a bucking from the back when I hit a bump. Watching my video, I think that is true, the rear unloads too fast in my opinion.

For the front, it feels like I'm smashing into the bump stops too hard. It takes a single hit, but I think I'm feeling the bump stops more than the shocks doing the work. Watching the video, I think the front collapses too fast, with the rear pushing it harder down.

My next plan of action (pending internet expert advice):
1)Adjust my front end up 1" higher
2)Try to get closer to an 85 compression in front
3)Try to get closer to 200 rear rebound
4)Leave rear compression alone for now
5)Increase rebound in the front closer to 200

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Last edited by lgottler; January 26th, 2014 at 04:00 PM.
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Old February 5th, 2014, 08:32 AM   #70
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Well that was easier than I expected. I cut two welds and lifted the front an inch and a half, then welded back on. Half an hour. I leveled the rocker panel with the ground, I didn't realize the front was that much lower until I took a tape measure around it. I think I estimated wrong on how much spare tire and tools were going the drop the rear end.

I want to add 1" wheel spacers all around. The front hubs dont like rocks and I want another inch or so travel out of the back which I limited because of rubbing at full flex.

Shocks all revalved. New rear shock had wrong shim from factory in it, stiffer compression on one side. Time for testing again.

Cable shifter is half done for the doubler, need to make a handle to match my tcase shifters.

I also feel like I dont have the power I used to have.....hmmm
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Old February 14th, 2014, 10:11 PM   #71
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Cut my TSL's tonight. I bought a used Ideal groover that had a few heads and blades, older than I am I'm sure. I wanted to refresh the tread blocks, open them up a little and add some siping to the center blocks. I cut out all the sections that, I'm assuming, were wear bars.



Got a grand cherokee cable shifter I'm modifying for my doubler. All thats left is to make a mount to bolt it to the floor. Stock shifter linkage didnt fit anymore and my attempt to use it resulted in it kicking into neutral sometimes.
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Old April 29th, 2014, 07:54 PM   #72
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Well, I was planning on having my daughters decorate the Jeep with "art", so I started the process with them using a pencil to draw pictures all over it. I didn't turn out exactly like I pictured, but I think it is even better this way! My girls were kinda being goofy and while one drew nice pictures, the other followed by adding this and that to them to mess with her sister. Now I have dolphins and flowers and a bat. Problem is the word "butt" is spelled a few times and the bat has boobs now. I'm currently looking for the right kind of paint for it.
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Old May 1st, 2014, 04:36 AM   #73
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Great build thread...subscribed.
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Old May 26th, 2014, 03:08 PM   #74
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I needed to finish the engine skid before Memorial weekend, so I got to work bending some tube around the tcase and drive shaft. I bent a piece of 3/8" x 2" into a "V" shape and wrapped one end to form fit the bottom of the motor mount. Off the center I welded a rubber bushing mount straight down. On the back mount I welded a plate to the trans mount acting as the main mount wih the front having the ability to twist. I had to cut and notch the front to back rails to clear the trans mount. I wanted to keep the trans mount because it acts as a mount for the tcase as well and it tucks up pretty good.

I will be keeping an eye open for some plastic to mount to this in the future.

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Old June 25th, 2014, 09:59 PM   #75
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I had to add some 1" spacers under the bumpstops after I did my first flex test with a forklift. The inner tire sidewall rubbed on the shock body when the bump stops compressed at full flex. So I had lost an inch of rear travel, add in a hundred or so pounds of gear and extra gas for long trips and I had about 2.5 inches of total travel in the rear which made it hard to get my shocks tuned right.

After debating which end of the shock I should inboard, I went with the easier method and shifted the lower mounts in about 2" and out another inch to clear the coil spring.

It has made a huge difference in ride.




I cracked my front hub on a rock back in October so I'm testing this guard I made. One trip and it hasn't fallen off, about all I can report on it. I rolled two rings, one clamps and the other sits against the steel wheel hub to keep it from pushing in. Welded together, then bolted tight, the 1/4" of steel I hope will help keep the hubs in better shape, at least from a side hit.

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Old June 26th, 2014, 04:36 AM   #76
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Nice idea on the hub guard.
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Old June 26th, 2014, 07:30 PM   #77
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It has been tempting me for years.

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Old June 26th, 2014, 08:09 PM   #78
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Very flexxy. ..
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Old July 6th, 2014, 09:38 PM   #79
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Well, I had one headlight all corroded so instead of buying a new one I opted to try out some lights I got from my buddy. They are so generic, there isnt a company name on the box! H4 bulb in a hightech plastic housing with holes in it. Initial impressions, they are not quite as bright as my turn signal lights....

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Old July 7th, 2014, 08:29 PM   #80
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Quote:
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Well, I had one headlight all corroded so instead of buying a new one I opted to try out some lights I got from my buddy. They are so generic, there isnt a company name on the box! H4 bulb in a hightech plastic housing with holes in it. Initial impressions, they are not quite as bright as my turn signal lights....

Can you replace the bulb? Maybe with an LED style?
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