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Old March 20th, 2014, 02:34 PM   #61
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are you making these in pieces and then gluing together?
if so can you post a pic of the pieces separated?
I could see making the pods separate from the base, and gluing them with some good epoxy.

the base would be a pretty simple mold, and the pods could be the same piece repeated 3 times, for 30 pods it might be cheaper and easier to make from some tube and cutting the back angle. but it could be a simple mold also.
I think this is the best way to do it if I decide to try and cast them.

But each pod holder is unique, so 4 pieces to make assemble would be great.
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Old March 20th, 2014, 02:44 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by 1 ton tj on 40's View Post
cant you use a sand as a mod? an I think there is a power out there they use to. but I have been wrong once before
if I understood you correctly, I would say no, sand is used for molding metals, not plastic or powder.
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Old March 20th, 2014, 02:45 PM   #63
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if I understood you correctly, I would say no, sand is used for molding metals, not plastic or powder.
He musta been drunk
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Old March 20th, 2014, 04:04 PM   #64
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if you can find a way to build a mold out of aluminum, here's an old small, sample mold injector

DME Jiffy Shot $150-$200

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DME-Jiffy-Sh...item2a3808de54

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DME-JIFFY-SH...item232f727ae8
I think those use wax.
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Old March 25th, 2014, 07:46 PM   #65
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Ok these have been going pretty well even without the molds. Still might go there but for now my process works.

But I was wondering if I can use a mold release to help the process.

I have a factory trim piece that I use to make the gauge pods and also as a mold for part of the process and have been using wax paper and parchment paper to line the trim piece so the stuff does not stick to it, can I just spray the trim piece with mold release to accomplish this? And if so what do I use? This? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRC-03306-Le...item1c3e30cb09 or this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mold-Release...item519207099e

I am using a 2-part polyurethane to cast the pieces into one and then using filler and then primer to get it ready for paint.

I would still like to mold the individual pieces and guess I can order some silicone and try it out. Again, what and where for this?

Thanks, Jay
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Old March 25th, 2014, 07:52 PM   #66
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Those definitely sexy, and gives me more ideas on what to do to put useable gauges into my g8.....


of course, time or money, of which I have neither!

Where's my tax return at.....
Let me know, these take about a week to build and paint.
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Old March 25th, 2014, 07:53 PM   #67
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I bet it is moldable if you simplify the design/allow for draft angles and whatnot. Creating a jig for the centers, then over molding the body could be an option too.

Where'd the gauges with G8 on them come from?
They are Aeroforce Interceptor and have a ton of display options and hook into the OBD port.

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Old March 26th, 2014, 10:12 AM   #68
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www.axson-na.com Is where I buy all my components.

www.smooth-on.com Is probably a little more hobbyist friendly.

CRC mold release will work.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 12:33 PM   #69
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www.axson-na.com Is where I buy all my components.

www.smooth-on.com Is probably a little more hobbyist friendly.

CRC mold release will work.
Can you give some examples of what products from them to use?

I briefly looked them over and really don't know where to start as there are many variations of the same products.

Also to make a mold I will start with a box but how do I have it suspended so it is not sitting on the floor of the mold, this will be for the tubes. And the base will actually be similar as it has holes that go through it.

Actually I think I could have the part sit on the floor of the mold so no problem there, at least the tubes, but suspended might be produce a more complete part that would not need additional work.

Last edited by firehawk; March 26th, 2014 at 01:12 PM.
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Old March 26th, 2014, 01:02 PM   #70
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Yellow piece would be vents .125" Red would be fill .1875" to .250"

You have a inner and outer step on part. You should stop at the one that will not lock part in mold. On first silicone pour.

Also remember you have to key the mold for assembly. So some blocks or cut section out on corners before you pour second half.

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Old March 26th, 2014, 01:21 PM   #71
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On Smooth-on's site

Resin: Smooth Cast Onyx Slow- High heat deflection 212*f and will room temp cure.

Silicone : OOMOO25
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Old March 26th, 2014, 07:20 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by cruzer72 View Post
On Smooth-on's site

Resin: Smooth Cast Onyx Slow- High heat deflection 212*f and will room temp cure.

Silicone : OOMOO25
Thanks, I also sent them an email. I have a response I need to read still.

I think it is starting to make sense how this can happen, if it will remains to be seen.
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Old July 25th, 2014, 09:51 PM   #73
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The little round pods would probably survive in a urethane with similar characteristics as ABS.

Do as Immortal said. I would put all vents and fill point on the edge that meets dash.

Suspend in a box with fill and vents pointing up. Have 2-3 inches of clearance on all sides. Mold release box and part. Fill to step in part. Let cure then mold release silicone and fill rest of the way. You also would need to key tooling. Maybe glue some blocks halfway up on box sides and remove when you do second pour.

You should be able to cold pour parts. No need to do under vacuum if you carefully mix components. Try to avoid making air bubbles.

Unless you can find cartridge system with a static mixer tip.




Now the A-pillar would take some work and I wouldn't attempted till after you get some experience.

Is it necessary to have 2-3" on all sides?

I just built a box so I can try this and only left maybe an inch or less to minimize the amount of silicone used in case I mess it up.
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Old July 25th, 2014, 09:57 PM   #74
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Is it necessary to have 2-3" on all sides?

I just built a box so I can try this and only left maybe an inch or less to minimize the amount of silicone used in case I mess it up.
They are pretty simple shapes you should be fine. Usually I will wrap it with rubber bands to keep some compression on mold. If not you can build a wood box to put it in.
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Old July 25th, 2014, 10:01 PM   #75
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Cast it in aluminum lol
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Old July 25th, 2014, 11:08 PM   #76
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They are pretty simple shapes you should be fine. Usually I will wrap it with rubber bands to keep some compression on mold. If not you can build a wood box to put it in.
I made a box of 1/8" melamine, not sure if its melamine or not but is pretty close and that fits snugly into a cardboard box. So a box in a box.

I think I need to support the piece with clay to the parting line to do the first pour. Does it matter if I start with the top or bottom of it, or I should call it the face and back?

Pour the first half making register marks all around it, let cure.

Remove the clay and spray exposed part and mold with mold release and make second pour.

Remove after curing and add pour spout and vents unless done while pouring.

I think having the face down while filling the mold will hopefully remove all chance for bubbles where they will be seen on the part.

If I am missing anything let me know.
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Old July 25th, 2014, 11:09 PM   #77
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Cast it in aluminum lol
No, Gold!
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Old July 26th, 2014, 07:23 AM   #78
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Your first pour should be the front of part. Because your vents and fill will be on the back of part.
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Old November 14th, 2014, 08:17 AM   #79
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Thanks for the help.

They are turning out great, just a little cleanup and paint.

Shipping the first one out today.



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Old November 14th, 2014, 09:32 AM   #80
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how did you end up making them? what material/products?
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