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Old January 29th, 2013, 11:54 AM   #21
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humm maybe i will find a set of vortec heads and just port and polish them and throw them on.
iv been wanting to do headers but i dont wanna break any bolts off in my head but new heads no worries.
i didnt think a throttle body spacer really did any thing lol what thick ness should i get?

looks like i have more crap to do to it now

the main thing i wanna do right now is i need the rear end rebuilt at least it seams like i should.
i think it would be good to go to 3.73 gears seams like it dosent like to tow very well and kinda makes me mad
Headers, yes, definitly on a TBI; the only real way to know if the bolts will come out easily is to just go ahead and do it lol. And you should be able to find a set of vortec heads for a couple hundered bucks or less. I would not do a throttle body spacer, I don't see how it would help. More time for the fuel and air to seperate which equals less power; but to each his own. If you do, then the standard i think is 1".

My truck seems to tow great for it only being a 1/2 ton. I've towed 9,000 lbs at 55 just fine. My guess would be that it's your transmission more than the axle. Though I've always been aiming to swap out the 10 bolt for a 14 bolt sf, same gear ratio though. just a stronger axle in general.
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Old January 29th, 2013, 12:18 PM   #22
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What kind of mileage are you getting from your '92? I know asking for more mileage and power is asking ALOT but, really I just don't wanna end up with something that gets 8 mpg for an some extra hp and tq. What about getting a crate engine? never actually looked at prices for them before

I've just been reading interwebz professionals, what would all be needed for a 5.3L swap, some say transmission, some say they make adapters for the early 4L60E. I'm sure there's gotta be a company that makes whole kit or something like that
Didnt have gauges this fall but from the rough estimate I figured out using my phone to calculate mileage, I averaged aprox 14-15mpg. Keep in mind I have NO evap system hooked up on this motor and its running headers with no cats just a dual in/dual out muffler with turndowns and a heavy right foot. Found someone to do my wireharness, dropped in a vortec fuel pump, added and plumbed a corvette regulator. Drops in very well, but recommend a shorter oil pan, somthing I should have done while it was out. Unless your trans is the model with the removeable bellhousing you should switch it for one that is so that the computer can control it. Lots of trans rebuilders out there with swap new core for old style core like mine did. Best investment I ever put into the truck but it did cost just over 3k for the whole conversion but now have a rebuilt trans and a 21,000 mile 5.3 motor, just breathed new life into this older truck which should keep it on the road for years to come.

I still think just gears will give you the added power you need at a decent price. Wait to do a 5.3 until your engine is dieing, like mine that would smoke like a train for the first 2-3 minutes. But I can say it was worth every penny.

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Old January 29th, 2013, 04:50 PM   #23
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Didnt have gauges this fall but from the rough estimate I figured out using my phone to calculate mileage, I averaged aprox 14-15mpg. Keep in mind I have NO evap system hooked up on this motor and its running headers with no cats just a dual in/dual out muffler with turndowns and a heavy right foot. Found someone to do my wireharness, dropped in a vortec fuel pump, added and plumbed a corvette regulator. Drops in very well, but recommend a shorter oil pan, somthing I should have done while it was out. Unless your trans is the model with the removeable bellhousing you should switch it for one that is so that the computer can control it. Lots of trans rebuilders out there with swap new core for old style core like mine did. Best investment I ever put into the truck but it did cost just over 3k for the whole conversion but now have a rebuilt trans and a 21,000 mile 5.3 motor, just breathed new life into this older truck which should keep it on the road for years to come.

I still think just gears will give you the added power you need at a decent price. Wait to do a 5.3 until your engine is dieing, like mine that would smoke like a train for the first 2-3 minutes. But I can say it was worth every penny.
I really would love to do an engine swap, but I am going to hold off on it. The motor still has a lot of life left in it, it seems anyway. So why waste money fixing something that isn't broke?

I was going to get another tuner for my truck but i'm actually considering just sending my computer in to get it flashed, PCM for less probably. 190 bucks isn't bad at all for what you get. Though you can do a lot more with a handheld tuner; I think a real pcm tune would be a lot better overall.
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Old February 16th, 2013, 06:51 AM   #24
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If you want to try a tb spacer I have one for a Vortec. Just cover shipping, should be $6 if it fits in the small Priority Mail box.

The biggest improvement I saw with my LS Swapped 94 Z71 was smaller tires. I have 285/70-17 BFG 10 plys and they killed mileage a solid 2 mpg. I swapped them onto my 08 Crew Cab for a few months and it did 2 mpg as well.

Winter mileage takes a big hit due to winter blend fuel (yes fuel compositions change by the season) and cold starting. My dd commute is 18 miles and the difference in mileage summer-winter is about 1.5-2.. yeah I measure it every tank.

If you do highway a lot, a tonneau cover helps too.

Big tires look good but kill mileage.

All said and done, going back to stock tires, summer fuel and tonneau took my 08 Sierra Denali from 13.5 mpg- 17 solid. Yeah the big 6.2L... highway with the tonneau made a huge difference.


An LS swap would be cool, I did it twice, but it does not improve mpg much.

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Old February 16th, 2013, 10:55 PM   #25
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If you want to try a tb spacer I have one for a Vortec. Just cover shipping, should be $6 if it fits in the small Priority Mail box.

The biggest improvement I saw with my LS Swapped 94 Z71 was smaller tires. I have 285/70-17 BFG 10 plys and they killed mileage a solid 2 mpg. I swapped them onto my 08 Crew Cab for a few months and it did 2 mpg as well.

Winter mileage takes a big hit due to winter blend fuel (yes fuel compositions change by the season) and cold starting. My dd commute is 18 miles and the difference in mileage summer-winter is about 1.5-2.. yeah I measure it every tank.

If you do highway a lot, a tonneau cover helps too.

Big tires look good but kill mileage.

All said and done, going back to stock tires, summer fuel and tonneau took my 08 Sierra Denali from 13.5 mpg- 17 solid. Yeah the big 6.2L... highway with the tonneau made a huge difference.


An LS swap would be cool, I did it twice, but it does not improve mpg much.

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Heck i'll take the spacer for a vortec just to have it do you do paypal?

I did decide that i'm going to get a pcm tune, and re-gear the axles/upgrade to a 14 sf later on. I think the biggest help will be a pcm tune, maybe not exactally for mpg but for power and turning 285s/315s
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Old February 18th, 2013, 11:29 AM   #26
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Heck i'll take the spacer for a vortec just to have it do you do paypal?

I did decide that i'm going to get a pcm tune, and re-gear the axles/upgrade to a 14 sf later on. I think the biggest help will be a pcm tune, maybe not exactally for mpg but for power and turning 285s/315s
Yep, paypal is fine, PM sent.

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Old March 4th, 2013, 05:36 PM   #27
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gettin a custom tune is the easiest way to get more hp out of a vortec. my truck gets 17 to 18 mpg hwy and 13ish back roads. specs are 97 k 1500 1 ton sas 4.56 gears 315-70-17 mt. vortec 305, headers, 3" single exhaust, no cat. built 4l60e with towing converter. like 1300 stall. i believe that helps mpg alot. 4.56 gears are nice on the road but too slow in low range I top out at like 35-40 mph. not very fun for racing at the dunes. just my .02
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Old March 5th, 2013, 02:52 PM   #28
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Yep that's about what I decided; i'm either going to be a tune with pcmforless or black bear, probably BB. Unless you know of a good one to go through.
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Old March 6th, 2013, 07:04 AM   #29
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until you change your gears i reccomend running the trans in 3rd at anything under 55mph. it eases the stress on the trans and clutches a ton. my stock trans went out less than 10k miles after lift and 35" tires with 3.73. the trans only had 68k on it.
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Old March 7th, 2014, 10:11 AM   #30
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A bit of an update. The truck got a new power plant, and before that went on I put on new headers, and ignition. I still have the stock air intake with an aftermarket filter. It's getting new high-flow cats, and the PCM is from BlackBear customs. I'm pretty happy with how it runs and drives. It's got a lot more get-up than before, especially with the PCM.

I'm still running a 10 bolt with 3.73s. I picked up a 14 bolt SF with 4.10s but i'm debating on if I want to go through the trouble of changing gears; I don't really tow anymore and it seems to run fine with the 315s.

How much good would it do to swap out the clutch fan for a dual electric setup? I found a deal on a set of fans from an 05 chevy truck, but is it actually worth it to swap the fan setup?
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Old March 7th, 2014, 10:57 AM   #31
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A bit of an update. The truck got a new power plant, and before that went on I put on new headers, and ignition. I still have the stock air intake with an aftermarket filter. It's getting new high-flow cats, and the PCM is from BlackBear customs. I'm pretty happy with how it runs and drives. It's got a lot more get-up than before, especially with the PCM.

I'm still running a 10 bolt with 3.73s. I picked up a 14 bolt SF with 4.10s but i'm debating on if I want to go through the trouble of changing gears; I don't really tow anymore and it seems to run fine with the 315s.

How much good would it do to swap out the clutch fan for a dual electric setup? I found a deal on a set of fans from an 05 chevy truck, but is it actually worth it to swap the fan setup?
1/2 mpg highway at least. The clutch fans usually don't fail open (slipping) they fail stuck, so you're likely dragging the fan more than you need to. If you are dragging the fan, the FE improvement will be more. That said, you are killing FE with the taller wider tires, so I guess I depends on how much you value FE. The devil will benin the details, if you cal the fans to come on aggressively, the mechanical loss for the clutch fan will be replaced by electrical load on the generator (how hard you're working the generator affects FE too). How do you plan to control the fans? The police package Tahoes had PCM controlled Aux fans, not sure the software in the PCM existed in 96.

I'd take that 14 bolt off your hands though...

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Old March 7th, 2014, 11:14 AM   #32
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1/2 mpg highway at least. The clutch fans usually don't fail open (slipping) they fail stuck, so you're likely dragging the fan more than you need to. If you are dragging the fan, the FE improvement will be more. That said, you are killing FE with the taller wider tires, so I guess I depends on how much you value FE. The devil will benin the details, if you cal the fans to come on aggressively, the mechanical loss for the clutch fan will be replaced by electrical load on the generator (how hard you're working the generator affects FE too). How do you plan to control the fans? The police package Tahoes had PCM controlled Aux fans, not sure the software in the PCM existed in 96.

I'd take that 14 bolt off your hands though...

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I planned on running two thermostats, one to turn one fan on at 180* and the second to turn the 2nd fan on at 200*. I have the actual setup on my computer at home, but I believe it was all in one harness that was a standalone system. I don't believe there is software on the PCM in 96 to control electric fans either

I don't have any dreams of getting 20 mpg out of a 17 year old truck with 35" tires lol, but I believe with proper setups and driving it like an old lady I could squeeze 17/18. I wont be happy with 15/16 mpg highway however. It's hard to get an accurate read on what I get now in the winter. I'd have to wait for warmer weather to see what i'm really at.

Shoot me a PM about that 14 bolt
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Old March 10th, 2014, 01:00 PM   #33
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Has anyone ever done this? Multi-port FI over Central-sequential FI Seems like a positive way to upgrade the fuel delivery system. I've read that it doesn't do much for driveabilitly or MPG/HP; but I don't understand how it wouldn't be. A mechanical spring vs electrical injector seems like a no brainier to me.

I don't, I think anyway, have a problem with the fuel system right now as is though. I probably would have done the upgrade when I replaced the motor had I read about it sooner.

Any opinions on if it's worth the cost for long term reasons; since i'm in the process of doing other things to increase the reliability/driveabilitly right now as is....or something to just wait and fix when something is actually broken?

http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.co...onversion.html
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Old March 10th, 2014, 01:39 PM   #34
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I planned on running two thermostats, one to turn one fan on at 180* and the second to turn the 2nd fan on at 200*. I have the actual setup on my computer at home, but I believe it was all in one harness that was a standalone system. I don't believe there is software on the PCM in 96 to control electric fans either
Correct, you have to swap to a newer computer (LS1-B 512k) to get electric fan control out of the PCM if my memory serves. I did this on my 2000 k3500, but haven't put electric fans in it. EFI live to reprogram the brains and then tune away as needed. Used on 2001-02 LS1's and the 4.8/5.3/6.0s from 99-02, as well as the 01+ g-vans with 4.3s and 5.7s.

As for the spider system upgrade, If you don't have sticking poppets or cracked hoses, it's not worth it. I considered it at one point, but given the option, I'd change over to the marine intake for the v8's and run traditional injectors (also a gen3 coil swap would happen). Thinking of what that tubing in the plenum does to airflow gives me chills. Poppet valves on the end suck, but if they're clean, they do ok, and the electrical valve is still used, just upstream at the distribution block. Once your engine is up to temp, losses from wall wetting and intake stuff drop off significantly, but if your system is damaged, mileage/hp/driveability will improve. You'll see a bigger gain going to the marine intake than swapping the stupid spider for another stupid effing spider distribution system.
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