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Old February 9th, 2014, 09:49 AM   #361
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This thing should float quite nicely. I think your going to like it.
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Old February 9th, 2014, 09:53 AM   #362
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^^ agreed!


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Old February 9th, 2014, 09:56 AM   #363
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https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...19036595_n.jpg


like these
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Old February 9th, 2014, 10:37 AM   #364
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This thing should float quite nicely. I think your going to like it.
That's the plan!! I wasn't gonna spend the coin for air bumps, but for as much high speed ripping around as I wanna do I figure the rest of the suspension will be way too soft to work well for both crawling and dune running. If only I could afford triple bypasses

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like these
Interesting....I wonder what the benefit of those is. Obviously a couple tabs are easier to mount than bump cans, but you'd still need something to keep them from pivoting off the mounts. I wonder if that's a production part or if somebody just replaced the top cap with the one from their 2" shocks for an oddball application.
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Old February 9th, 2014, 10:44 AM   #365
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yea just better mounting, you just run a short can on the bottom and some tabs on top. my bumps are a pain in the ass to remove from the cans, after I welded to the cans they distorted a bit (shitty foa bumps). kings are nice too they a run a loose fitting can and a large nut that holds the bump in the can at the top.
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Old February 9th, 2014, 11:00 AM   #366
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Yeah mine distorted a bit too, but nothing too bad. I did a lot of welding to them so no big surprise there. I just need to pry them open a hair at the tabs and the bumps come in and out just fine. They were really tight when I first got them too, I gouged up one of the bumps test fitting it at my kitchen table when they first arrived. A little deburring and pry bar massaging and that was resolved.
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Old February 14th, 2014, 09:37 AM   #367
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Got the rear swaybar in.

Simple tabs at the bottom, which also act as a nice gusset between the LCA bracket and truss:


Approximate ride height:


Full droop:


Need to trim the tub to get to full bump:


Crappy part is, I was only able to make the link mount about 12.6" from the center of the torsion bar. I would've liked more, but there's just no room. The bar is mounted just over 1/4" from the tub, the arm is just over 1/4" from the bump can, and the bumpstop is close to the coilover at full droop. Hopefully being a fairly long sway bar (42.5") it'll have enough twist to still work well. If it ends up being too stiff I can always pull it off for technical wheeling and just use it for street and dunes.
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Old February 14th, 2014, 09:58 AM   #368
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Couldn't you shorten the link some to get full bump? It is not that bad looking at full droop
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Old February 14th, 2014, 10:18 AM   #369
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Couldn't you shorten the link some to get full bump? It is not that bad looking at full droop
Yep I very easily could and may shorten them slightly.....but I'll be reworking the wheelwells anyway for the coilovers and bumpstops, so it's really a non-issue. I'd rather play it on the safe side with the links since the sheetmetal will be getting cut anyway.
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Old February 14th, 2014, 08:55 PM   #370
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Random fun post:

Last time this thing wheeled, November 2010(the only remaining parts are the engine, trans, most of the transfer case, wiring, etc)

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Old February 26th, 2014, 10:41 AM   #371
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I did some work this past weekend to maximize bump travel up front. I probably gained 1" or so of usable travel. Nothing exciting....

Passenger side notched to clear track bar:


Driver side notched to clear truss:


Truss notched to clear harmonic balancer:

(obviously this will get cleaned up, plated, and finished properly)


I started mounts for the front airbumps but haven't been able to work on it since. I did something to my elbow and have some extreme pain and swelling going on. I see the specialist tomorrow, hopefully it's nothing too major and won't require surgery or anything like that. I'm already pissed to be unable to make progress for a few days, I was planning to have the bumps and sway bar done by now
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Old February 26th, 2014, 02:41 PM   #372
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At least your elbow has chosen a good time to fall ill as its cold as chit again. I'm not sure how much you would want to be out there right now....

Hope its not too serious either as you were making good progress on this thing!
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Old February 26th, 2014, 03:12 PM   #373
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At least your elbow has chosen a good time to fall ill as its cold as chit again. I'm not sure how much you would want to be out there right now....

Hope its not too serious either as you were making good progress on this thing!
Yeah I guess. I'm just pissed. I'll be struggling enough as it is to finish this thing by summer, and these kinds of setbacks don't freakin help!! The vicodin I'm currently on is making it feel much better but until I know what's wrong with it I don't want to go out and make it worse. Hopefully they can give me good news tomorrow.
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Old March 4th, 2014, 06:40 PM   #374
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Looks like this will all be delayed about a month. I ended up with a severe staff infection in my elbow. Got sent to the hospital for 2 days on IV antibiotics while they determined whether or not surgery would be required. I dodged that bullet but will be on IV antibiotics 3 times daily till March 13. I've got one arm in a splint to immobilize it and speed healing, and the other has a PICC line...basically a glorified IV that enters a vein in my left bicep and runs 47cm straight to the top of my heart. Once those are done with I'll still have to take it easy. Also spent 5 hours at the ER yesterday to get checked out for mild chest pains but all tests came back good. I may still need surgery sooner or later to fix whatever was wrong with my elbow in the first place, but hopefully it can wait till the infection is all gone so it'll be simpler with much quicker recovery. All this a week after turning 30....I'm not messing around with this whole "getting older" thing
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Old March 4th, 2014, 08:19 PM   #375
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yikes. I don't see why you cant have the iv going while your working in the garage.....
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Old March 4th, 2014, 09:35 PM   #376
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That was the beginning of the end, first scratches my Cherokee got since i bought it, i got the evil eye from becky all the way home for scraping up my DD that day


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Random fun post:

Last time this thing wheeled, November 2010(the only remaining parts are the engine, trans, most of the transfer case, wiring, etc)

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Old March 5th, 2014, 02:14 AM   #377
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Man patch yourself up. Good to hear you caught it early kinda.

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Old March 5th, 2014, 08:31 AM   #378
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Originally Posted by sbcrichie View Post
yikes. I don't see why you cant have the iv going while your working in the garage.....
Call me paranoid, but I can think of plenty of reasons that's a terrible idea.

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That was the beginning of the end, first scratches my Cherokee got since i bought it, i got the evil eye from becky all the way home for scraping up my DD that day
Yeah it's definitely been straight downhill since then....but at least you've been able to use yours this whole time.

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Man patch yourself up. Good to hear you caught it early kinda.
Ha thanks. I just can't believe the kind of fiasco this whole thing turned into. I didn't expect anything on this scale. Hopefully I'll be back at it soon.
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Old March 5th, 2014, 12:08 PM   #379
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Needs more cannonball, less elbow aids.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 09:49 PM   #380
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I'm just about all clear health-wise to start working on this again but will have to take it a little easy for now. Hopefully I can start plugging away a little this weekend. In the meantime, I've figured out my brake system and got some of the parts. I found an inexpensive, fairly simple way to do it. Here are details in case others are interested for reference:

My rear Dana 60 came with the common mid 70s Chevy single piston caliper disk brake setup. The front axle came without brakes and rather than the obnoxiously huge Ford dual piston calipers, I'm putting matching Chevy brakes up front with this kit: http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/Ford...eel-Front.html

Stock TJ vacuum booster will be used with a 98-99 Dodge 1 ton master cylinder. It has a larger bore for the bigger calipers and is a direct bolt-in, just requires a longer pushrod to be made(just cut down a 1/4-28 bolt and round over the tip).

For brake lines I'm keeping it pretty simple with inexpensive, off the shelf parts. At both ends I'll run a single line down the upper control arm, with a T at the axle sending a hard line down the axle toward each caliper. I figure this is simple, up out of harms way, and I don't have to worry about a long flex line at each corner from the frame to caliper to get snagged on stuff. If I were to break an upper control arm it'd be bad news, but that's not much of a concern of mine. All hard lines will be 3/16" steel, all fittings will be double flare 3/8-24(except the front fitting of the master cylinder requires 1/2-20). For flex lines I found cheap, easy to find OEM rubber options. From the frame mounted hard line to the upper control arms, the flex line is for the rear brakes of a 1985 Plymouth Reliant(K car), it's about 6" long with female double flare 3/8-24 fittings on both ends. Another hard line will run down the link, then mate to a 1998 Jeep Cherokee rear brake flex line at the axle end. It's about 10-12" long with a female double flare 3/8-24 at one end, and a large brass T fitting at the other end with dual female double flare 3/8-24 and a mounting hole. Hard lines will run to both ends of the axles with the factory mid 70s Chevy flex lines running to the matching calipers.
All soft line junctions will be retained with these: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/BLTAB.html and these: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...LTAB58-CL.html and the standard spring clips.

I would've liked to run a mechanical emergency brake in case of hydraulic brake failure, but haven't found any promising options that don't cost an arm and a leg. I plan on running this setup inline with my rear brakes: http://undercoverfab.com/brackets-an...acket-kit.html It's obviously more of a "parking brake" than an "emergency brake" since there's no mechanical redundancy. I'll build a guard around it so a broken driveshaft or stray branch is less likely to damage it. I'll probably carry a junction fitting with my spare parts in case I ever need to bypass it.

I'm leaning towards adding a proportioning valve to dial in the brakes if needed. I posted a question about it here:
Simple Proportioning Valve Question - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
Any help would be appreciated.
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