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Old February 25th, 2014, 02:44 PM   #21
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I don't plan on changing the cam. I want to do 258 crank and rods and stock 4.0 pistons. If I do bore over it will be .020-.030 and id like to avoid high CR so I can run 87. If that's not possible ill live with running higher octane
waste o money

this will be a gigantic turd 10-20hp at the most increase over stock yea no thanks
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Old February 25th, 2014, 03:00 PM   #22
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Cam, here's what i see. You will do this 4.5 Stroker, then when you decide to go to tons (and countless threads), you'll go to a 5.3. Then after you are on tons, you'll want a 6.0. You are wasting your money. Just swap your motor with a low mile 4.0 or rebuild yours. Keep it cheap and simple. You don't need anything bigger than a 4.0.
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I was teasing him cuz mines bigger and louder
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Old February 25th, 2014, 03:03 PM   #23
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Old February 25th, 2014, 03:17 PM   #24
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What's wrong with this recipe? Pics are gone, text is still there.

Full 4.6 stroker build write-up - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
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Old February 25th, 2014, 03:45 PM   #25
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Cam, here's what i see. You will do this 4.5 Stroker, then when you decide to go to tons (and countless threads), you'll go to a 5.3. Then after you are on tons, you'll want a 6.0. You are wasting your money. Just swap your motor with a low mile 4.0 or rebuild yours. Keep it cheap and simple. You don't need anything bigger than a 4.0.
You seem to know him pretty well.
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Old February 25th, 2014, 04:10 PM   #26
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Get a louder exhaust and you will feel faster.
Best advice if you are not ready to spend moneys. I mean, you probably put 2000 miles a year on it and are worried about running premium? lolz

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waste o money

this will be a gigantic turd 10-20hp at the most increase over stock yea no thanks
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Old February 25th, 2014, 10:29 PM   #27
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i have 200 in a cam and lifters and i am running 93 right now have not tried running 87-89 yet. i have 200 in boring the block, instaling new cam bearings and hot tanking the block. 150 in the head which incudes valve job and decking the head to insure it was straight. 200 in the cank that was turning it to .10 to .10 on main and rod journals and makeing sure it was straight. 80 in injectors from ebay 200 for pistons,rings,and cam bearings. 100 in main and rod bearings and 90 in a oil pump. if u are gonna do a rebuild i would most defintly put new cam bearings in it. if i wereto do it all over again i would save the moiney fro the stroker and just go 5.3 in it. or find a good running 4.0
Ya I'm not looking to spend that much. New can bearings even when my motor only has 115k on it?

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waste o money

this will be a gigantic turd 10-20hp at the most increase over stock yea no thanks
For $300 more id be ok with 20hp

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Cam, here's what i see. You will do this 4.5 Stroker, then when you decide to go to tons (and countless threads), you'll go to a 5.3. Then after you are on tons, you'll want a 6.0. You are wasting your money. Just swap your motor with a low mile 4.0 or rebuild yours. Keep it cheap and simple. You don't need anything bigger than a 4.0.
I may go to a 5.3 eventually but while rebuilding it why not spend $300 or so more to get a little more pep. It will be cheap and simple I'm not as cheap as you
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Old February 25th, 2014, 10:40 PM   #28
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Why do you need more power when I'm crawling the same hills with my 2.5?







edit: just gear it
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Old February 25th, 2014, 11:02 PM   #29
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I am running a stroked 4.0.. 4.2 crank and rods .030 over pistons I decked the block and milled the head .010 each, 440 lift custom ground cam and a 99 intake with venom 26 lb. injectors and a 62 mm throttle body with a 1.5 inch spacer.. I have tons of power but I have to run premium in the summer and can run midgrade in the winter.. as far as mileage when I first installed it I was getting 21 mpg on the highway with my ax15 ,3.55 gears and 33s.. and that was with stock throttle body since then I am running 4.10s and 33s now I am only getting 12.5 on the highway with the 62 mm .. its all in a 1991 xj 2door.. if you do build it make sure to watch your numbers I am at 10.5:1 compression ratio and I wish it was lower... but that was my own miscalculation but I would give up the power for anything.. I do most of my climbing barley touching the throttle and on the street I have guys thinking I am running a v8 because of how well it gets up and moves.. I wish you luck on a build
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Old February 25th, 2014, 11:17 PM   #30
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I have done a huge amount of research on strokers, assembled one and I can tell you there is a lot of misinformation and second hand knowledge out there. There are also a lot of poorly built but still running strokers from what I have gathered. The biggest issue you will have is compression ratio. To get proper quench, you need to mill the deck of the block, which raises CR. Too high of a CR is what necessitates higher octane fuel. Basically you have two options to lower your CR. First is custom pistons, I believe Keith Black makes a set, second is having stock pistons dished deeper. Most people don't dive this deep into the build, build a motor with crappy quench and end up unhappy. If you have questions go to Jeepstrokers.com and start reading...more info there than you can imagine, most of which I've forgotten.
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Old February 25th, 2014, 11:43 PM   #31
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Why do you need more power when I'm crawling the same hills with my 2.5?







edit: just gear it
I need to rebuild it just thinking about making a lil more power while in there

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I am running a stroked 4.0.. 4.2 crank and rods .030 over pistons I decked the block and milled the head .010 each, 440 lift custom ground cam and a 99 intake with venom 26 lb. injectors and a 62 mm throttle body with a 1.5 inch spacer.. I have tons of power but I have to run premium in the summer and can run midgrade in the winter.. as far as mileage when I first installed it I was getting 21 mpg on the highway with my ax15 ,3.55 gears and 33s.. and that was with stock throttle body since then I am running 4.10s and 33s now I am only getting 12.5 on the highway with the 62 mm .. its all in a 1991 xj 2door.. if you do build it make sure to watch your numbers I am at 10.5:1 compression ratio and I wish it was lower... but that was my own miscalculation but I would give up the power for anything.. I do most of my climbing barley touching the throttle and on the street I have guys thinking I am running a v8 because of how well it gets up and moves.. I wish you luck on a build
Good to know. Thanks

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I have done a huge amount of research on strokers, assembled one and I can tell you there is a lot of misinformation and second hand knowledge out there. There are also a lot of poorly built but still running strokers from what I have gathered. The biggest issue you will have is compression ratio. To get proper quench, you need to mill the deck of the block, which raises CR. Too high of a CR is what necessitates higher octane fuel. Basically you have two options to lower your CR. First is custom pistons, I believe Keith Black makes a set, second is having stock pistons dished deeper. Most people don't dive this deep into the build, build a motor with crappy quench and end up unhappy. If you have questions go to Jeepstrokers.com and start reading...more info there than you can imagine, most of which I've forgotten.
Will my quench and CR be fine with just putting in a 258 crank and rods I don't want to do pistons unless I have to. If I do this will I need special head gaskets?
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Old February 26th, 2014, 04:52 AM   #32
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:Sonicjay:
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Old February 26th, 2014, 05:14 AM   #33
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You do what you want buddy. You might as well wipe your ass with that $300 cause it ain't gonna be worth spending. I may be cheap, but at least i know how to think
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Old February 26th, 2014, 05:25 AM   #34
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Just do a stock rebulid with a little more bumpstick and spend your cash on the head. The best bang for the buck is head work. Power comes from the head and intake. The more air / fuel you can move = more power. Or save the cash do a stock rebulid and regear your ride.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 05:33 AM   #35
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Is $300 really what you have/want to spend, or is that just a number you threw out there?
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Old February 26th, 2014, 05:38 AM   #36
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If you have to rebuild your engine, why all the hate against trying to bump the HP a bit?

Picking up someone elses 4.0L seems like a gamble to me, you don't know its history. Stuffing another engine in it seems like a headache, your still left with someone elses engine plus everything behind it might not be up to it.

I have plans to stroke my 4.0L in the future as well, refresh it and get a little more out of it. I hope thread gets back on track....
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Old February 26th, 2014, 05:43 AM   #37
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Just do a stock rebulid with a little more bumpstick and spend your cash on the head. The best bang for the buck is head work. Power comes from the head and intake. The more air / fuel you can move = more power. Or save the cash do a stock rebulid and regear your ride.
X1558833558658566

Spend that $300 on a cam and headwork. I run a comp cams extreme 4x4 in my I6 along with a good valve job and love it.

Better yet, cam, get head rebuilt and then gasket match all the intake/ exhaust ports yourself with a $35 grinder set.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 06:40 AM   #38
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Is $300 really what you have/want to spend, or is that just a number you threw out there?
I want to see the receipts for this $300 stroker build. I bet he spends $300 before he even gets the old engine out.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 07:31 AM   #39
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Ya I'm not looking to spend that much. New can bearings even when my motor only has 115k on it?
If you don't feel the need to replace any internal bearings and your motor only has 115k on it why are you rebuilding it at all? Run it till it blows.
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Old February 26th, 2014, 07:53 AM   #40
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300 dollar engine rebuild/ stroker......... haha you are as stupid as people say you are. not gonna happen
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