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Old December 27th, 2013, 03:18 PM   #81
RuBiflexkid
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Lol never had one I didn't know what guys were doing
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Old December 27th, 2013, 03:28 PM   #82
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Lol never had one I didn't know what guys were doing
Tummy tuck gives you 3-4" of ground clearance where it counts. No lift gives you a low center of gravity so you don't roll over as easy. A smooth belly makes it so you can glide over obstacles. High clearance fenders give you room for the tires. Sway bar discos will give you more flex.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 03:32 PM   #83
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That is just my .02 on what works though.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 03:35 PM   #84
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If your itching to do something.

A. Get some 2" coil spacers
B. 1 to 1 1/4" body lift
C. 1" Motor mount lift
D. Find some used 33" M/T tires on black steel wheels 3.75" back space.

Go wheel, sit back and learn.


If you are still itching, (These two won't change with later plans other then maybe the winch plate)

E. A winch,
F. Look into a trans skid & get your rear drive line up graded to double cardivan drive shaft. (The 03 and up trans/t case are quite low).
(F could lead to needing a couple adjustable control arms for the rear)



BTW I have found the stock tailgate handles a 33" spare fine as long as you move the stops so the deeper offset rim don't rock around.


Now try and figure out your big steps. don't spend twice !!


Keep your rig on the road, most burnout I see comes when its on blocks waiting for money,time whatever.


Those first four steps get you in the game past stock for the least investment.


Have fun :)

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Old December 27th, 2013, 03:42 PM   #85
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Cool. Thanks guys so much for all the help and advice
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Old December 27th, 2013, 04:31 PM   #86
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This tummy tuck, is that a kit or just the 1.25 body lift?
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Old December 27th, 2013, 04:43 PM   #87
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This tummy tuck, is that a kit or just the 1.25 body lift?
A tummy tuck is lifting the motor and trans up and getting rid of the stock trans skid that hangs way down and putting a smooth flat skid on the bottom. I'm sure there are kits out there or you can build it yourself. You need the 1" motor mount lifts for the motor end. I think Alboy said what he had in a previous post.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 04:45 PM   #88
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Look at where the stock skid would be. I had the RC longarm kit on there and the brackets hung down way too far though. It was cheap and worked ok.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 05:05 PM   #89
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I'm currently looking at 2.5 in suspension lift by RC with an 1.25 body lift comes with springs shocks and all for just under 400. The stuff to do the belly up kit is expensive lol. 450 something just for a flat skid plate. I've found the motor lift but found nothing on ebay for a transmission lift.

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Old December 27th, 2013, 05:29 PM   #90
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I'm currently looking at 2.5 in suspension lift by RC with an 1.25 body lift comes with springs shocks and all for just under 400. The stuff to do the belly up kit is expensive lol. 450 something just for a flat skid plate. I've found the motor lift but found nothing on ebay for a transmission lift.
If you think that is expensive and you can't build things yourself I would stick with a small suspension lift and 33s. That will be a cheap way out for you.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 05:42 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuBiflexkid View Post
I'm currently looking at 2.5 in suspension lift by RC with an 1.25 body lift comes with springs shocks and all for just under 400. The stuff to do the belly up kit is expensive lol. 450 something just for a flat skid plate. I've found the motor lift but found nothing on ebay for a transmission lift.
Transmission lift? What's that?

I used the brown dog motor mount lift, a barnes4x4(who is a vendor on this great site) flat belly skid, and a daystar(I believe) 1.25" body lift kit from jeeperzcreeperz(also a vendor here).
350$ish.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 05:53 PM   #92
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Chadcooper said the tummy tuck was lifting the motor and trans up. Did he mean just the motor mount lift? 350 for all that is a lot better than 450 just for the skid plate I seen on ebay, that said I'd also have to buy a plate or bracket to lift the compressor for the air lockers the rubi has.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 06:16 PM   #93
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http://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ--LJ...ates_c_50.html
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Old December 27th, 2013, 07:47 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuBiflexkid View Post
Chadcooper said the tummy tuck was lifting the motor and trans up. Did he mean just the motor mount lift? 350 for all that is a lot better than 450 just for the skid plate I seen on ebay, that said I'd also have to buy a plate or bracket to lift the compressor for the air lockers the rubi has.
Currently the skid plate on your jeep is also your crossmember. Motor mount lifts are just 1" taller motor mounts. The transmission end is going to be a skid/ crossmember that replaces the factory one.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 07:54 PM   #95
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I see 3 different ones Barnes 4x4 uses. I'm looking for the 0" correct to lift it all the way up in there. Then I'm guessing I'll have to put a jack stand under the trans to hold it in place in order to put in the new skid plate? Guys I can't thank you enough for all the info to a beginner. I would have done gave up by now lol
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Old December 27th, 2013, 08:29 PM   #96
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Ok cool. By high line your talking a different fender correct? I'll look around, my thought always was bigger long arm lift more flex. I stand corrected thanks. I'm glad I joined here I've got a lot of helpful useful info. I can't wait to go out and wheel this thing for my first time lol.
You haven't wheeled it yet and you want to go to 35's right away? That is just stupid and I hate saying that word. Learn how to wheel on a stock rig then do some changes. You'll have no base to work from and won't have any idea what is wrong with it and what changes you need to make.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 08:37 PM   #97
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Yeah I understand that. I just wanted to build a go anywhere rig. Then find a weak point like drive shafts or something. My thoughts have changed I'm gonna do a 2.5 lift with 1.25 body. Then do the belly up thing they're talking about. Run 33s call it done for awhile
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Old December 27th, 2013, 08:48 PM   #98
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Youll be amazed what your stock rubi can do so give it a try first and fitting 33's is simple with a 2" budget boost, 1 1/4" body lift, 1" motor mount lift, 1 1/2" QUALITY wheel spacers for the rubi rims, bumpstops and steering stops adjustment. Look into the ZJ steering upgrade for a much stronger than stock steering set up and not terribly expensive.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 09:12 PM   #99
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You haven't wheeled it yet and you want to go to 35's right away? That is just stupid...
Now that's not nice. It's his jeep, his money, let him run the tire size he desires.
Everyones got their own idea of right and wrong. There's no need for name calling because he's not doing it your way.
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Old December 27th, 2013, 09:34 PM   #100
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Using stupid was too harsh but going to 35's without having any experience is not the best approach don't you think.
I never called him stupid BTW and it wasnt a attack on him at all but more to get his attention to how some approach wheeling. Start with your stock rubicon and work your way up.
Did you start with 35's?
I've seen guys who ran 35's on their first attempt and it was a disaster because the rig was cobbled together with junk but I'm sure there are many that have without issues.
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