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Old December 9th, 2013, 09:56 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by amc78cj7 View Post
Stop right there. I think you said enough.
She asked if powder coat would be good for a new bumper, clean smooth metal not rusty so it applies I think.

I did scuff the metal first and it did not matter.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 09:58 PM   #22
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Wow.. I will pass on the powder coating. The bumpers are brand-new. So there is no dirt or existing rust.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 09:59 PM   #23
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Do not use por on new smooth metal it will peel right off
If you want to use por throw your bumper in the yard for a couple months first
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Old December 9th, 2013, 10:06 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Disco Stocker View Post
Don't powder coat. It will eventually crack rust any you can't fix it. Just rattle it or give it quality paint so it can be fixed in the future.

This.

You'll scratch them up and it's hard to match/touch up powdercoat.

I paint mine with POR-15 as a basecoat and Rustoleum faux powder coat finish coat - they make a paint with that semigloss finish that looks like powdercoat.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 10:08 PM   #25
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She asked if powder coat would be good for a new bumper, clean smooth metal not rusty so it applies I think.

I did scuff the metal first and it did not matter.
As stated, you have to prep (ie acid etch) bare steel before applying the epoxy primer, which you stated explicitly you did not. POR-15 works on bare steel when prepped properly, some people just don't follow instructions well and then blame the product.

Don't feel bad. You're in good company with Wramblerguy and at least two other posters on this thread
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Old December 10th, 2013, 01:19 AM   #26
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Honestly I feel its a lot about the primer/prep. Spray paint, professional spray...whatever. mine sat for less than a month before I saved the money to paint so mine had to be blasted, the op's bumper most likely wont. But it has to have the right etching primer or it won't be tough. At least that's how I feel about it.
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Old December 10th, 2013, 05:46 AM   #27
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What are your pipes racks Chad? Maybe if they aren't exposed to the elements like slat and road debris, I could see the powder holding up better in a decent environment.


It would be on the top of my truck. They get a ton of pipe slid on and off them. They sandblast them right before they coat them. I have a pipe rack sitting behind my barn that came off a shop truck that I bought. The rack was put on in 1996 and has never been refinished. There is very little rust on it and the powder coating has not flaked off one bit. We have our racks in the shop that were all painted with epoxy and those look like shit and those don't move. All you guys that say powder coat isn't tough must have some shitty, half assed place doing work for you.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 10:35 AM   #28
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Put those racks on the roads, and not on top of the truck and see what happens to them. Just look at all the suspension kits that are coated these days. Show me one that still looks good after a year on our roads. How about that Smittybilt armor? Ask anyone that has bought that garbage what they think of powder coating. But if you've found a decent company that does quality work that's great. In my20 years of doing paint work I haven't seen any powder coating worth a shit. But like I said.....just my opinion.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 11:47 AM   #29
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On our racks they blast and then do a powder coat primer that is an orange color then they top coat them with the black. I'm not a plumber that throws PVC and copper on there either. My rack sees up to 8" sch 40 carbon steel pipe getting slid on and off on a regular basis. That is why I'm shocked to hear all the bad about powder coating in this thread. Especially seeing racks that have seen 16 years of service and are still in descent shape.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 11:55 AM   #30
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Yeah, but I bet 99% of the coaters dont use a primer. It's all in the prep work, whether it be paint or powder. Care to share the name and location of the company that does your work Chad?
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Old December 11th, 2013, 12:07 PM   #31
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Have the bumper galvanized, start a new trend!
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Old December 11th, 2013, 02:31 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy View Post
Yeah, but I bet 99% of the coaters dont use a primer. It's all in the prep work, whether it be paint or powder. Care to share the name and location of the company that does your work Chad?
It's a place in Grand Rapids, I'll ask somebody in the office what the name is. I had the rack on my old truck done by magnum and I will never use them again as long as I live. They did shit work. I think the biggest thing (which magnum didn't do) is a quality sandblast job and coat it immediately afterwards. If they just dust it off, let it sit for a week and then coat it that is where the issues come from.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 02:39 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadcooper55 View Post


It would be on the top of my truck. They get a ton of pipe slid on and off them. They sandblast them right before they coat them. I have a pipe rack sitting behind my barn that came off a shop truck that I bought. The rack was put on in 1996 and has never been refinished. There is very little rust on it and the powder coating has not flaked off one bit. We have our racks in the shop that were all painted with epoxy and those look like shit and those don't move. All you guys that say powder coat isn't tough must have some shitty, half assed place doing work for you.
in retrospect, all of godwin plumbing's pipe racks have been made by my grandpa, dad, and myself. those have all been rattle canned, and I have yet to see one rusty.

quality powder coating is hella strong. I had to take some of the powdercoating off of my h1 outers to give me enough room to let them seal, that was a bitch. It was adhered very well, and I don't see it flaking off anytime soon.

My $.02 would be to do what you want, just choose quality if you don't want to mess with it.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 02:40 PM   #34
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It's a place in Grand Rapids, I'll ask somebody in the office what the name is. I had the rack on my old truck done by magnum and I will never use them again as long as I live. They did shit work. I think the biggest thing (which magnum didn't do) is a quality sandblast job and coat it immediately afterwards. If they just dust it off, let it sit for a week and then coat it that is where the issues come from.
Boss electrostatic painting?

If it's that it's right across for my family's shop.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 02:41 PM   #35
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Have the bumper galvanized, start a new trend!
zinc dichromate ftw.

grade 8 bumper bitches
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Old December 11th, 2013, 02:47 PM   #36
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Boss electrostatic painting?

If it's that it's right across for my family's shop.
I don't think so
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Old December 11th, 2013, 03:31 PM   #37
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E coat then rattle can
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Old December 11th, 2013, 06:03 PM   #38
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A quality powder coat job will last. As said it's all about the prep work. A lot of powder coaters won't even sand blast that's why it chips and flakes off.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 08:06 PM   #39
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Rattle can then ..... Rattle can then ...... Rattle can then ...
So on and so on...


I don't care who powder coats it it doesn't hold up.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 09:19 PM   #40
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I've had seaver finishings in grand haven powder coat a lot of parts for me. Everything still looks as good as the day I picked them up. Very durable.
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